My first “issue” post…
I have a 2018 RDX Elite (Canada)/Advance(US), 8 years old with just over 100k km (60k miles).
Last Saturday when heading out, it shifted roughly, then the engine lugged… ran really rough, smelled bad even when in neutral. Got it home, and towed to Acura dealer.
They managed to look at Saturday, said it was a misfire in cylinder 3. Issue did not follow ignition coil, so Monday morning the tried replacing plug. That did it, so I had them replace all , even though they are normally “due” at 7/160. Unfortunately they threw the plugs out, I wanted to see how all of them looked, since it seems early.
I got about 5 km/3mi down the road, and Check Engine light came on for an Emissions System - Error PO420 Error message
. Tech ran diagnostics which suggested a bad first cat… but that maybe driving it hard for a bit may clean any unburnt fuel out of cat…
So… anyone come across this before? 8 years, but only 100k km on the plugs… seems early. I always use premium fuel, and do all required maintenance per the Minder.
Also thoughts on whether some driving (hard) will clear cat? Driveability is good, possibly better than before…
Ideas?
The case is obvious, but to definitely condemn the VCM, you need an endoscopy, which will most likely show oil burning in cylinders 3 and 4. After diagnostics, you will most likely need to programmatically disable the VCM or install a S-VCM Controller.
Spark plugs in such cases are cleaned with sandblasting and then reused, but it's always easier for a repair shop to sell new ones than to bother with cleaning.
The case is obvious, but to definitely condemn the VCM, you need an endoscopy, which will most likely show oil burning in cylinders 3 and 4. After diagnostics, you will most likely need to programmatically disable the VCM or install a S-VCM Controller.
Spark plugs in such cases are cleaned with sandblasting and then reused, but it's always easier for a repair shop to sell new ones than to bother with cleaning.
What is best way to disable VCM? The muzzles I have seen spoof the temperature reading, so that it thinks engine is below temp, and I don’t like that.
Second question is about the Cat… is it likely toast, or might driving it clean it out. Engine misfire was hard and sudden. I was under a mile from home, so drove it back, then had it towed to dealer.
I am really annoyed they chucked the plugs, because I now can’t tell if they all looked similar, or at least worn. 8 years and about 60k miles - though mostly city
17006496[/url]]What is best way to disable VCM? The muzzles I have seen spoof the temperature reading, so that it thinks engine is below temp, and I don’t like that.
The fact that the ECU thinks the engine is colder than it is. Higher engine temps normally trigger cooling, change fuel metering, etc. If it doesn’t know, it can’t adjust.
I just want the VCM stopped, not mess around with engine temps
The fact that the ECU thinks the engine is colder than it is. Higher engine temps normally trigger cooling, change fuel metering, etc. If it doesn’t know, it can’t adjust.
I just want the VCM stopped, not mess around with engine temps
The best way is the most accessible way. The correct way is to disable it by reflash the ECU, but you need to find someone who has the specialized equipment and software. I do, but I'm in Delaware. The S-VCM safely spoofs the ECM and, doesn't affect to close-loop engine operation.
The best way is the most accessible way. The correct way is to disable it by reflash the ECU, but you need to find someone who has the specialized equipment and software. I do, but I'm in Delaware. The S-VCM safely spoofs the ECM and, doesn't affect to close-loop engine operation.
Shame - I wonder if anyone here flashes properly…
Now I need to figure out if driving will help clean the cat.
i am a little concerned about oil burning… not sure how the VCM causes oil burning
Shame - I wonder if anyone here flashes properly…
Now I need to figure out if driving will help clean the cat.
i am a little concerned about oil burning… not sure how the VCM causes oil burning
When a cylinder is deactivated, all the valves in it close, which creates a vacuum and if the piston rings are clogged, oil begins to be sucked into the combustion chamber.
Aggressive driving in S mode should warm up and blow the catalytic converter.
When a cylinder is deactivated, all the valves in it close, which creates a vacuum and if the piston rings are clogged, oil begins to be sucked into the combustion chamber.
…well… that can’t be good… especially for the rings, and then compression…
When a cylinder is deactivated, all the valves in it close, which creates a vacuum and if the piston rings are clogged, oil begins to be sucked into the combustion chamber.
Aggressive driving in S mode should warm up and blow the catalytic converter.
would the damage causing oil burning then be bad enough to show up as lower compression?
would the damage causing oil burning then be bad enough to show up as lower compression?
Burning oil does not affect the cylinders in any way, it only clogs the cat, leaves deposits on the spark plugs and reduces the oil level in the engine.
I just want the VCM stopped, not mess around with engine temps
Quote:
Originally Posted by altair47
The S-VCM safely spoofs the ECM and, doesn't affect to close-loop engine operation.
This is correct and has been proven via dynamic monitoring / parameter comparison between VCM / non-VCM operation.
VCM does not engage unless / until the temp sensor 1 (ECT1) reaches 167*F
S-VCM plugs in at ECT1 and "intercepts" ECT1's reading...as the engine comes up to operating temp and ECT1's reading becomes greater than ~165.2*, S-VCM sends 165.2* (<167*) to the ECU...thus keeping VCM from engaging. The other thing S-VCM does is if ECT1's temp ever reaches 230*, then S-VCM will send the actual ECT1 reading to the ECU...alerting of an overheat situation and not defeating that protection.
I've personally been using a S-VCM Controller for ~8yrs across 4 different VCM equipped vehicles for >250k miles total...without issue. The S-VCM has provided positive / measurable oil consumption results and demonstratively helps with some of the "bad transmission behavior" some experience in their Honda / Acura vehicles.
