Hi everyone. I will be changing the timing belt on my 2015 RDX soon and have been watching several videos online.
There are conflicting statements about the direction of crank pulley move that may cause damage or turns the timing off. Some say counter-clockwise move would do the damage and others say the clockwise move.

Since removing the crank pulley bolt could be a challenge, I bought a 19mm heavy socket and crank wrench to hold it.
However, they do not fit in each other (see the picture). This means that when I want to remove the crank bolt using the 19mm socket I cannot use the wrench. The bolt opens in counter-clockwise direction. So the question is whether I should hold the crank pulley from moving. Some say that since the direction is counter-clockwise it is OK and some say the opposite. Others say use the wrench when tightening the bolt at the end of installation for the torque spec preventing it from moving clockwise.

Has anyone used these socket and wrench? Any suggestion?

 

I just did this last week. Before you remove the acc belt, hit the bolt with your heavy socket as is. Took 7 seconds with a 25 gallon compressor at 130#. Regular impact socket never touched it. Get the bolt out, remove acc belt, all the covers, then put bolt back in by hand. Turn crank clockwisewith ratchet or breaker bar until all the marks are aligned. Then hit the bolt with the heavy socket to remove and it won’t move the crank a bit. Swap everything out, and you will get to use pulley holder to install. 47 foot pounds then 60 degrees. Pro tip- Rotate the rear cam gear clockwise a 1/2 a tooth to help get the belt on. Not much, but it will save you some frustration. Be methodical, make sure pump o ring doesn’t fall out of groove, and after you pull grenade pin, turn engine over 5-6x by hand clockwise with ratchet to ensure marks still line up.

 

So just remove the bolt with the heavy 19mm socket without holding the harmonic balancer? The bolt opens counter-clockwise. So I hope if the balancer moves that direction won't cause any damage. Is that your understanding too?

I have a Milwaukee wrench with 1400 ft/lbs loosening power. I think that will do the job smoothly.

I'm still thinking about what's the best way to get that 60 degree tightening.

Didn't know installing the belt would be that hard. But now that you say that, wouldn't that half tooth deviation cause firing issues?

 

The second generation rdx 3.5 v-6 crankbolt is not reverse thread. Lefty loosey. Yes- just hit the bolt without the holder, and it should spin right off. You have a v-6 with the timing belt on the passenger side of car, right?

There are 6 sides to that bolt head. 6*60=360. Take a white paint marker, index your starting point on the pulley, and the ending point, and tighten bolt that much. Get the car as high in the air as you can, to use the longest breaker bar you have. It’s going to wind up around 180 nominal foot pounds.

It will be difficult to get belt over the rear cam sprocket without slack, due to the lip on the sprocket, that the front does not have. If you can’t muscle it over, turn the sprocket cw just a half tooth, so that when you get belt on, and realign the marks, all the slack is gone. Use a box end wrench to do this- the cam will have valve tension on it, and is prone to over rotating off the lobes. The non ratchet leverage of the wrench will make it easier. If it does jump coward or back, just turn back into place.

Additionally, I installed the tensioner, but left the tensioner pulley off till the belt was on the rear sprocket. Much easier to get belt around it and tighten bolt before you pull pin.

 

If you have the milwaukee impact, you shouldn't even need the pulley holder. I was able to take off my CP with ease using my Dewalt 1/2" impact. I pulled out my holder looking to use it but never had the opportunity

 

Yes that's it. The 3.5L engine.

That's a good method. Will try that. I will be using jack stands. That's the highest I can get. Hope that will give me enough space to use. I know it will be tight space so I anticipate a difficult job overall.

I don't feel comfortable to move the cam out of its position. What you are suggesting will be my last resort if all my attempts fail. You never know if it goes exactly back to its original place though. Scary at best.

Agree. You can install the pulley later.

 

OK sounds good. Yeah the Milwaukee impact is a monster. It's loosening power is incredible. Has a Dewalt but sold it and got the Milwaukee. You need the holder for tightening the bolt at the end of process though. Without it the harmonic balancer may start moving.

 

Still two questions remaining: 1) the car had 85K miles on odo, so I'm wondering whether I should wait until it reaches 100K miles or just go ahead and do the change earlier; 2) I have got a thermostat as well. So now that the coolant needs to be drained I thought it would be a good idea to change the thermostat as well. Not sure if it's a good idea or not. Has anyone changed it?

 

You will have roughly 100,000 miles before you have to do it again, whether you change it now or change it at 100,000. Entirely your choice. If I was doing this job again, I would change the thermostat; I see it as cheap insurance.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
I can't think of anything worse after a night of drinking than waking up next to someone and not being able to remember their name, or how you met, or why they're dead. -- Laura Kightlinger

 

Not sure if the Aisin kit would last 100K miles like the OEM Honda factory installed parts. I doubt it. But of course, changing it in 100K vs 85K makes a difference in interval available for the next change. Anyway, I have all the parts and tools ready and just have to convince myself to start with it. As you said, I surely go ahead and change the thermostat as well. It's a simple job and saves me trouble down the road.

 

For what it's worth, Aisin is the OEM for all Honda vehicles, insofar as I know.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Conservatism: The haunting fear that somewhere, somehow, someone you think is your inferior is being treated as your equal.

 

They're also known to be in Toyotas too if I'm not mistaken, which makes me trust Aisin as a whole.

 

The real Aisin is but there are lot of fake and knock off parts sold with an Aisin mark on them. Difficult to tell them apart. I got mine from Rockauto so hopefully it's the real one.