I installed the UR Underdrive Pulley about a year ago. It's been great, however now I'm having some electical system issues and I think it has to do with the pulley so I wan't to remove it now.

When I removed my OEM pulley, I used the hondal pulley tool to keep the pulley from spinning, but with this pulley, it's not an option. I also don't want to stick like a screw driver in the holes of the pulley as I want to re-sell the pulley and I don't want to risk denting or marring the pulley and throwing off it's perfect spinning balance.

I have a 5AT so I can't put the car in gear and stand on the brake like the 6MT unfortunately.

When I put the bolt on, I couldn't get it to the 181 ft/lbs that's required, but I did put some red locktite on the bolt.

What's the best way to go about taking this thing off now? Should I get someone qualified to heat the bolt then try and get it off with an impact wrench? I remember someone mentioning something about an inspection port in the tranny that you could stick a screw driver in and keep it from spinning?

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

3/4'' Impact Wrench!!

 

You *might* try holding the (I think) Power Steering pulley bolt while turning the Crank Pulley bolt.

The (I think) PS Pulley bolt is reverse threaded so it "counters" the crank pulley. Not sure if this is really good method or not - if you try it, it's on you. Also, both run off of the serpentine belt, so if there is slippage, you'll lose leverage.

 

Red Locktite on your Crank Bolt = Fail! That stuff is meant to be a permanent bond. The blue is the temporary stuff...

I don't know what your gonna do now.

 

Heat > Loctite 271.

250 degrees will degrade the bond and get the bolt right out as per their technical data sheet.



I'm not going to try the PS pulley becasue I don't want to fudge it up, plus the belt's gonna slip I'm sure.

I was really hoping someone had some insight on that inspection port you could stick the screw driver in.
Gonna get some heat on it and then try the 1/2" impact. If that doesn't work, gonna have to go borrow the 3/4" from someone.

 

I couldn't find that damned inspection port. If you do, take some good pics showing the location please.

 

When I did the install, I layed under the car for about 20 minutes trying to find the freaking thing also!

Anyone on here an Acura technician who can point this thing out? Maybe snap a pic next time you see one at work? Can this be in any of the repair manuals?

I feel like I'm searching for big foot. There are supposedly alot of people that have seen it, but not photo proof

 

look under the car where the trans meets the engine
now look for a small inspection plate- normally held on by 2, 10mm head bolts and large enough opening to get a wrench into for loosening the flex plate bolts to seperate engine and trans.

Pop the cover off and there is the `flywheel`- stick a prybar of good strength in the teeth and the engine will not move! friend must hold bar

heat the bolt area gently- heat shock the part and its worthless

A ricer racer type shop can do this easily for you

Note- the prybar method is how you install the pulley to 181 foot pounds, holds engine stopped-

Optional- gen2 method may work on 3, put socket and long handled breaker bar to reach the ground, hit the starter a few times quickly and it will break the bolt loose

 

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.... where exactly does the UR pulley go or what does it replace?

 

A-098: DIY: UR Crank Pulley info
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153549



Bookmark it: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/

 

If your having electrical issues, I would eliminate other things before blaming it on the pulley. As long as your not running a 600+ watt system in your car, you should be fine with the pulley. I would check the condition of the charging system first. I've had that same pulley on my car for the same amount of time and have had no issues at all.

 

Thanks



I've heard the thing about this being ok as long as it's system under 600+ watts as well, but this car is still under warranty for 3 more years and I'm not paying a penny out of pocket to fix this if I don't have to, so I'd feel better going to the dealer to have them fix a charging system issue if I have the OEM, or atleast the full size UR pulley installed so they can't play the "well, it's the pulley size" game...

 

The pulley only underdrives the system a small amount, which would not cause an issue electrically unless you had a stereo system over 600 watts RMS.

 

I know the pulley is not the cause, I know this... However, I wan't Acura to fix this problem and I'm not taking it there with an under drive pulley so they can tell me that they won't fix shit because the pulley in there is smaller and of course that's why it's having a problem. Good luck at that point trying to explain to the stealership how it doesn't under drive it that much and it can still power a system upto 600W, etc etc.

I actually beleive it's easier to just swap the pulley...lol

 

Wise you are grasshopper

 

Thank you

Now the question is, do I go with the UR full size, or back to stock? I hate the thought of getting in my car every day and it feeling even slower!

At least will the full size, I can make the claim that while the pulley is lighter, it has no effect on the revolutions of the alternator.

 

If the dealer is going to be expected to replace something for free, I would put the stock pulley back on, just so they cant argue anything at all. Then when they give you a battery or some other simple charging system part for next to nothing or free, you can go back home and put the UR pulley back on.

 

Stock size is no longer produced so you'll have to go used in BM or elsewhere.

I'll have one for sale but I don't know when.

 

matt hit me up if u need a hand.

 

heat up the bolt and impact wrench matt.

Excelerate i believe took over the stock size Pulleys so you could check there

 

I just spoke to Josh at Excelerate and ordered a full size one. I think for the time being, I'll replace the pulley with the OEM, chase down this electrical gremlin, then go back to the UR, but the new full size one I just bought.

Thanks Steve and Alex. This time, I actually have a friend with a lift, air tools and he's also a welder\fabricator so I'll have him heat the bolt up a little if necessary and we'll hit it with the impact wrench.

Probably won't happen until the weekend so I'll keep everyone updated on the progress of this if you care to follow...lol

 

you still got a stock one? if not let me know i got mine

 

I save all the OEM parts just in case...except the exhaust...I wonder where that went...hmmm LOL

Thanks Alex

 

LMAO. If you need one, i got one unchopped. i used your chopped up one...

 

UR no longer produces them but we do. We are the exclusive distributor of the stock diameter UR pulley. We have UR do production runs for us so that we can keep these pulleys available for the AZ crowd.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-291887.aspx

 

Josh= FTW!!

 

I had a UR stock size pulley on my 5AT TL-S and i couldnt remove it when i was parting out my car. My mechanic tried a lot of methods and the bolt wouldnt budge. I ended up leaving it on the car when i traded it in

 

^^^Well lets hope my luck is different! LOL

I have to give Josh a big thumbs up. I ordered the pulley on late Tuesday afternoon and it arrived here about 24 hours later. AWESOME!

 

Have you got the UR pulley off yet? I'm going to be attempting a timing belt change on my car soon and getting that UR pulley off is my biggest concern.

 

Scheduling issues came up and I won't be able to do it until hopefully this weekend. I'll let you know.

 

Yeah you are doin it smart bro. If you are going to the dealer make sure you put the stock one on. I've had enough bad experiences with the dealers. They are always bitchin about mods and just love playing the blame game to get out of in-warranty repairs. They spend more time looking for a way out more than looking for the actual problem.

I know "dealer sympathizers" will say; "If the problem is caused by the mod then pay up" Yeah I would if that were true. But if I KNOW it isn't because of a mod and I explain it, they don't listen. They will always blame a mod they can see 100% of the time even if they are not sure. And they don't even try to prove it, they don't need to, they just deny you.

I didn't extend my warranty because of this and decided to say fck it......I am out of warranty. Mod my car to the max now, lol. I do all my own maintenance, no worries. Don't want to deal with the dealers.

 

I'm also making the dealer do TSB 08-031 (http://www.in.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/SB/B08-031.pdf) so the last thing I need is them giving me even more grief about the crank pulley.

I actually have a list of rattles as well as a faulty driver side mirror motor that I want them to fix. They're not going to like me by the time I leave, but there's no reason why I should have to drive a rattling, squeaking, flickering car considering all the $$ I paid for it!

 

I impacted the shit out of my old crank pulley.

 

So if I am understanding this right you are getting negative affects from the UR Pulley?

 

Negative. The effects I'm sure are NOT a result of the crank pulley, it has to do with some charging system issue, or a ground or something...

BUT

The car is under warranty and being that the crank pulley is connected to the alternator, water pump, p/s, etc, the dealership is going to point to that as the cause right off the bat and refuse any repairs on this or the other parts if they ever break, even though it's not the pulley's fault...try explaining that to those shady thieving mother fuckers...

 

Your chances of getting something covered under warranty are better if you have the actual stock pulley though. Even though we all know that the UR pulley has nothing to do with your charging system problem, you know the dealer will try to blame it on the pulley. Also they might try to mention that the stock pulley has antivibration material in it. Thats not needed at all because the motor is internally balanced, but they may try to use that as a reason to not cover your problem as well. I worked in the service department at an Acura dealership for 2 years, and saw some crazy things. When you go there be prepared with answers for anything they might ask you.

 

^Agreed, which is why I will be putting on mt stock pulley.

 

lol mglax, you are very patient for not blowing up on those who aren't reading the whole post and giving you "advice." ...advice that is what you already intended to do and that you have already justified throughout this thread HAHA

He knows he has to put on the stock pulley guys -_-

good luck at the dealership!

 

Smart move on putting the old pulley back on. I drive a 2000 TL and had a real pain trying to get that bolt off. Had to use the ol' starter bump method. Worked great. I'm not sure how it works with the '08 models...so what I'm saying I guess is that this post is worthless, but good luck!

 

Try as I might, I couldn't get the thing off, but the impact wrench I was using was a little weak, all it was getting was 80lbs of air. It's not even like the pulley was spinning, it just wasn't moving at all kinda of indicating to me that the gun wasn't getting nearly enough torque.

I'm dropping it off at a shop tomorrow to get done.