Is there a post on how to replace the stock rotors with new ones. I have done a search on "brakes", but just did not find an instruction set or a"DIY". Just got in some new EBC dimple/slotted set and dont want to pay the $200 for the install if I dont have to.

 

All u need is wrench set, C clamp and impact screwdriver or heavy duty screwdriver tip for impact gun. Once you get to caliper remove 2 caliper bolts, 2 caliper bracket bolts and ... here is a tuff part ... 2 screws on the rotors. These are baked on pretty bad and do not even try those with regular screwdriver cause you will shave em off. . If you do damage screws - just drill em out. Once you got that - remove rotors and reassemble. If you have problem removing rotors , there are 2 screw holes designed specifically for removing it. Get 2 long bolts - I believe its metric 8 , not sure though - screw in eqally till rotor pops out. For new pads , you ll need to retract caliper piston with C clamp ... Thats it! It should not take longer than 30 min a wheel

 

I never push the pistons in with a clamp, you can damage the ABS sensors. Instead, crack the bleed screw and push the piston in by hand. Make sure you close the bleed screw as soon as you have the piston all the way in and make sure the bleed screw is pointing up the whole time.

Use an impact driver to get the rotor screws out. They make your life 100 times easier. I dont run the screws on the front anymore, and when I swap the rears Im tossing those screws as well. Theres no need for them other then to hold them in place as you remount the wheel, but the brake caliper does a good job of that.

If youre replacing just the front rotors, its a simple job. Unbolt the caliper (2 12mm(?) bolts), remove the pads, then remove the caliper bracket (2 14mm bolts). Unscrew those pita screws, pull off the rotor, clean the new rotor of all nasty crap with brake cleaner, then reinstall in reverse older, using new pads of course. The wear indicator goes on the back pad, dont forget to use the anti-squeel grease and the shims. Torque your wheels to 80ft-lbs, and pump the brakes before you go for a drive and check your fluid level in the master cylinder.

If you are planning on doing the rear rotors as well, I suggest you get a shop manual as the e-brake/rear brake combo can be a bit daunting.

Dont forget to bed the new pads in according the manufacturers recommendation.

 

.... hmmm, ABS sensors are on the back of the knuckle and have nothing to do with calipers, there is no way you can damage anything by pushing in pistons - and for a newbie, by using bleed screws you can easily trap air inside - just by a simple mistake . Both ways work ... just absolutely do not agree with "ABS sens damage"

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-116/diy-rotors-pads-%2A%2Ahow-w-pictures%2A%2A-620983/

you can just spend the ten bucks and get a disc brake pad spreader. works just as well as a c clamp if not better. the hardest part for me was the 2 holder screws that hold the rotor on. like everyone said you dont need to reuse those if you dont want to. i had to get mine drilled out. you dont need to bleed your system since you aren't removing the caliper from the brake line. one of the simplest jobs you can do to your car. good luck.

 

Sorry, it was late and I meant the ABS modulator.

 

I've done the brake job a couple times. However the procedure of breeding the brake fluid makes me always confuse.

Does the lid have to be off while the piston is pushed on the caliper to replace the pads for the wheels?

Thanks.

 

You dont need to remove the cap when you are pushing the piston back into the caliper. I do it though.

What part of bleeding the brakes confuses you? The shop manual has an odd sequence, driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, then driver rear; whereas Ive always been taught to start furthest from the master cylinder. I folllowed the manuals instructions though and it worked fine

 

OK . Modulator is a set of 4 solenoids that are venting pressure from hydraulic system in case ABS action is needed and pump rebuilds that pressure . These modulator solenoids are directly under constant - far greater - pressure , from everyday breaking and no caliper piston retraction can create pressure even a bit close to press. while breaking ... not possible to damage modulator. However your brake change procedure is absolutely ok. Brake fluid is a substance that absorbs moisture from the air very easily and despite the fact that reservoir tank is aways closed - some moisture gets there. Ocassional drainage of portion or entire fluid change is recommended. I do it once car gets 5-6 years

 

True, however Ive seen ABS systems go haywire from pushing the piston back in with a clamp. I know tons of shops use the clamp procedure, I just dont feel comfortable running the risk of doing that.

Plus, if you have a BBK or even painted calipers, using the clamp could mar the surface

 

Now we got the guy realy confused which way to do his brakes ... I hope he'll still try to do it by himself

 

Lol. Whoops.

 

What I am confusing is during the breeding procedure. My friend hold the pedal inside the car, while I am opening the breeding cap. Should the ild be open or not?

 

Leave it open so you can quickly glance at it and see if you need to add fluid.

 

What are you guys doing out there? Is you helper a nice female?