I have replaced.... upper and lower ball joint, pass side strut, axle, axle half shaft, sway bar end link, Pass side mount. STILL pops. I took the car to Acura after all this and they came back with... replace both front struts AND pass side lower ball joint. oh and it will be $1300.

For the longest time it would only pop taking a HARD left turn and hitting some sort of dip. In my case... the gutter before I got onto my driveway. After replacing the axle, it has started popping going straight down the road. Any suggestions????? The wheel doesnt shake at all and the wheel/tire dont move when the pop sounds. I have had someone watch it while i was driving and it pops.

 

Inner and outer tie rods replaced also

 

Any 'popping' that I have personally encountered with my CLS was attributed to loose/worn sway bar mounts/bushings and/or end links. That does not mean that nothing else can be involved, but just what I have experienced so far. You have mentioned that the endlinks have been replaced; however, I don't see anything in regards to sway bar bushings. In addition, I have found when replacing end links that it is important to really clamp down on tightening the bolts to both the knuckle and sway bar. It may help to revist those fasteners and make sure they are good and tight. It's also important to tighten alot of the nuts and bolts in the components you mentioned while the suspension is under load. Check out post #6 in the thread below to get the tips listed from the helms in that regard.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-tires-wheels-suspension-54/simple-ball-joint-separation-740248/

Sometimes they (endlinks) appear good to go, but have a little gap left, and thus popping/clunking occurs when under load.

Also, I am in a similar situation in regards to having a rather steep gutter/dip when pulling off the road into my residence. I always try to be mindful and pull in slowly with the car at as straight of an angle as possible to avoid placing the majority of the front end weight on that sides front suspension, when the turn is being executed. I know it's a bit anal; however, with the added weight of a supercharger, the front end on my car is heavy, thus preventing premature wearing of the related components you mentioned above. just a thought.

Good luck!

 

I guess my next thing... I'll buy an aftermarket sway bar that comes with new bushings and what not

 

Did you change out both swaybar stabilizer links? It's possible the other link is bad as well and is transmitting the pop sounds to the other side of the car. it's only $24 and a little labor.

 

also OP, are ALL the sub frame bolts in place, and tight too
are you lowered?
did the popping seem to happen after an accident possibly (just wanna rule it out as a possibility)
how about a bad bushing maybe too, cause those can wear out too