StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i noticed about week ago that when i do accelerate hard car pulls to the side on first and second gear... could be alignment ? or lower ball joint ? or what? and also when i turn my steering wheel and take of i hear clicking from axle i think could bo gone bad right ? the driver side thanks for help !

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

If the axle is clicking, replace it. If the joints completely seperate you can damage your LSD.

If the pulling is still there after the axle replacement, then check tie rod ends and ball joints.

phee

iTrader: (5)

my car pulls to the right under hard acceleration. its always done it and it drives me nuts. even with a perfect alignment

celynka

Just get you CV joint done first

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yeah get the axle fixed, but yeah some of that pull is called torque steer especially if you are accelerating hard (aka WOT)

CLSspeedx

I hit the curb at the bank drive through (don't even get me going!) and just replaced the right front rod, and a new lower control arm is going in sunday. The rod replaced most of the problem, but with the bent lower arm in place the car sits just a bit low on the passenger side, visible when the car is on level ground.

crazyasiantl

iTrader: (7)

+1 on torque steer

boostedcls6

I have the exact problem. I have replaced both upper control arms, numerous alignments, chaged rims/tires, replaced both axles, changed lower control arms, radius arms and bushing. both outer tie rods, and have brand new tein coilovers. i just ordered a new sub frame to see if it fixes it, but it is driving me nuts. i dont know what it is, but it pulls to the right when accelerating. i have a 6 speed with lsd, so dont make sense?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you can't expect it have absolutely no torque steer, and to the right is extremely sensibly, it's the extra length caused by the extension shaft for the passenger side axle

boostedcls6

but i could have sworn our car shave near equal shafts, and that the car never did this b4?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

equal length shafts, kinda, if you count just the section between the joints then yes

but when you include part #17, no way in hell are they equal length




and "before", are you talking about when you where at "stock" power levels, if so, the engineers had already compensated for the torque steer by varying how thick the axles are and such, but now with more power, that built in compensation is insufficient for your higher power levels

boostedcls6

so is this something i have to live with, or something that can be corrected with a caster kit?

also, i am currently pretty much stock. minus the stage 4 clutch and light weight flywheel, yet it still pulls, even after replacing everything? the only other sympton i notice is a vibration while accelerating in first and second gear. I will take a video tomorrow and post it up to show exactly what occurs, and perhaps a better diagnosis can be made. also i will post my last spec sheet for alignment.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

to add caster on our cars, all you do is remove some shims:, but no that will probably not help at all (maybe a little, but not the source of the toque steer)(and i thought you were boosted :shakehead)

check you motor mounts first, motor may be shifting around too much, causing different angles and such with the axles, so the torque steer

boostedcls6

i am boosted, but have removed the blower to install new 09 tl IM and ported runners, fuel rails etc.

I have poly filled my mounts with 60a but have noticed that some have started to crack. so poor mounts can cause my issues of pulling towards on side? have no choice but wait to see what happens after i change the sub frame and someone releases mounts for this car

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

but the blower does not get in the way though of the manifold


and you said cracking, obviously overstressed, so motor is definitely moving around some

also try this (my thread )
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/ingalls-stiffy-etd-mount-760177/

should help with some of the motor mount issues, (not all, but some)

boostedcls6

correct but also changing coils, plugs, etc but this is irrelevant to issue at hand. i will check ur thread now

boostedcls6

after looking at ur thread, id like to say that i ordered two
new nrg engine mounts, and see what that does as far as the vibration and pulling

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

OK understandable for plugs, but why not right back on with the s/c then

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

wrong mounts for where the ingall's would be going, it goes with the side mount on the passenger framerail, not the front and rear mounts

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i still have this problem but noticed that my steeringwheel start to shake around 50-70 not much but thats anoying. first thing i did was balance wheels with no effect than alignment. now i think it may be axles so they are next on my list. also pass side engine mount went bad.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you mean the side mount??? that bolts to the passenger side framerail

anyways i would also check the front mount, cause it was also bad/very weak when i did my side front , so had to also do it, then when i had it out, and started playing it (not even disassembly yet eitier, it tore just like everyone else's does, so it was not long for this life eithier

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

front is brand new and poly filled, side one is bad

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

has it ever happened to of had a new axle put in it (maybe a non OEM one)

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

im sure thats bc of the way i drive and the axles are oem im sure

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

also are you talking about a constent pull when you are in 1st and 2nd, or just that it kinda jerks when you first step on the gas

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

only when i floor it...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

like a constant pull as long as you are flooring it, or like a jerk when you first floor it, then it basically stays straight

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

thats hard to say bc when first time feel its start to pulling i try to hold the steering wheel stronger dunno...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

if it is like just a jerk, then it is kinda normal, but if it's a constant pull, it's not normal (you might get a little, but nothing drastic though, like something that 2 fingers on the wheel can correct)

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

tie rods that would be your problem for shaking at a certain speed my car has that same problem and without good tie rods an alignment is useless. i replaced all my ball joints and both inner and outer tie rods.