HELP!!! CT HBP misfires, and knock but no CEL!
HELP!!! CT HBP misfires, and knock but no CEL!
Ok I need some help!
I installed the CT SC and have been running it for just about 2,000 miles now. I have the CT HBP on it which is boosting around 5-6psi (my boost gauge is somewhat defective). The issue I am having is a check engine light for the EVAP system. It has come on 3 times now and I have cleared it each time. It takes a few days and a lil bit of driving before it reappears.
Brought it to my brothers shop and we hooked it up to the SnapOn Verus and we took it for a drive. I am showing misfires in multiple cylinders (2,3,4,5,6) but all at different driving conditions. At one point cylinder #4 was showing a constant misfire but the car was running smooth as ever. Under mild exceleration the computer said my knock was at about 10%.
Driving the car you cant feel any misfires or anything for that matter. At idle you can hear a minor misfire here and there. The CEL has not come on or shown any codes for misfires or the knock. Is this normal? If the misfire is that off wouldnt the CEL come on?
AEM Wideband o2 gauge is showing 14.7-14.9 at idle and 11.3-12.3 under WOT (its hard to really read and drive at the same time lol)
Im extremely concerned about the motor going KABOOMMM!
My mods as far as engine work are as follows.
CT SC
HBP Pulley
CT FPR (Warm idle is at 48psi)
AEM Intake
CT Headers
Flowmaster 40 series mufflers and mid muffler delete.
CT ESM with voltage set at 2.88v
CT High flow fuel pump
Stock injectors
I just dont get why I WOULDNT be throwing a CEL for knock or for misfires.
Thanks!
I installed the CT SC and have been running it for just about 2,000 miles now. I have the CT HBP on it which is boosting around 5-6psi (my boost gauge is somewhat defective). The issue I am having is a check engine light for the EVAP system. It has come on 3 times now and I have cleared it each time. It takes a few days and a lil bit of driving before it reappears.
Brought it to my brothers shop and we hooked it up to the SnapOn Verus and we took it for a drive. I am showing misfires in multiple cylinders (2,3,4,5,6) but all at different driving conditions. At one point cylinder #4 was showing a constant misfire but the car was running smooth as ever. Under mild exceleration the computer said my knock was at about 10%.
Driving the car you cant feel any misfires or anything for that matter. At idle you can hear a minor misfire here and there. The CEL has not come on or shown any codes for misfires or the knock. Is this normal? If the misfire is that off wouldnt the CEL come on?
AEM Wideband o2 gauge is showing 14.7-14.9 at idle and 11.3-12.3 under WOT (its hard to really read and drive at the same time lol)
Im extremely concerned about the motor going KABOOMMM!
My mods as far as engine work are as follows.
CT SC
HBP Pulley
CT FPR (Warm idle is at 48psi)
AEM Intake
CT Headers
Flowmaster 40 series mufflers and mid muffler delete.
CT ESM with voltage set at 2.88v
CT High flow fuel pump
Stock injectors
I just dont get why I WOULDNT be throwing a CEL for knock or for misfires.
Thanks!
I have read lots of forums on here where people have run the high boost pulley without issues and I am running the same setup.
The car is misfiring even under 2500rpm so regardless of the HBP or not it shouldnt be doing so.
Are you running a SC?
The car is misfiring even under 2500rpm so regardless of the HBP or not it shouldnt be doing so.
Are you running a SC?
My check engine light has been on for a while lol, I just try to ignore it. If the car is actually sputtering because of a misfire it could be a coil pack or plug that's bad. If it's just misfiring but still driving normal I think you're ok. Have you tuned the comptech fpr to deliver more fuel?
The stock blower pulley will be fine with the motor but sometimes the hbp can cause the piston rings to go due to the increased heat/pressure. Is your IMRC disconnected? If not you'll definitely want to disconnect it because the additional air will lean things out too much.
The stock blower pulley will be fine with the motor but sometimes the hbp can cause the piston rings to go due to the increased heat/pressure. Is your IMRC disconnected? If not you'll definitely want to disconnect it because the additional air will lean things out too much.
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Yes my IMRC is disconnected and I took it off completely. I read about that in a few forums and didnt want to risk leaning it out. I have the warm idle on the FPR set at 48psi. Which from what I have seen is already higher than most. I can turn it up more but not sure if its really necesssary. My CEL has nothing to do with the misfires or the knock retarding. It just makes me nervous.
As far as the piston rings going wouldnt it take much more than 2000 miles of driving? Plus I dont beat on the car like a maniac. I boost here and there but not every gear all day.
Your Fuel Pressure is running on the high side (should be 40 psi if I recall correctly). The comptech FPR isn't that great also tbh.
You don't have to beat on the car constantly to fry the piston rings quickly. I started experiencing knock and a little while later toasted 3 piston rings.
You don't have to beat on the car constantly to fry the piston rings quickly. I started experiencing knock and a little while later toasted 3 piston rings.
So if the SnapOn Verus is picking it up but the ECU is not would that mean its so silent and faint that it doesnt matter? I feel like I should be doing something to address the issue I dont just want to neglect it and then something serious happens....
Im going to run the low boost pulley. This weekend Im going to switch it and see how it runs. What are people tuning with these days. Ive read so many mixed reviews on things!
Well, your fuel is being ignited too many degrees before top dead center. You need to retard the spark timing, so the fuel is ignited just a little bit later. Colder air or higher octane may help.
Don't worry about the misfire. If it's a problem, the car will tell you.
Don't worry about the misfire. If it's a problem, the car will tell you.
Your Fuel Pressure is running on the high side (should be 40 psi if I recall correctly). The comptech FPR isn't that great also tbh.
You don't have to beat on the car constantly to fry the piston rings quickly. I started experiencing knock and a little while later toasted 3 piston rings.
You don't have to beat on the car constantly to fry the piston rings quickly. I started experiencing knock and a little while later toasted 3 piston rings.
So if I run the regular pullet that the SC comes with I should be ok until I can swing the emanage blue and a tune.
I understand you were running lean. Wouldnt it be better to run the FPR at a higher psi like I am?
I also have rdx injectors that I will probably mod and throw in when I put the high boost pulley back on.
I understand you were running lean. Wouldnt it be better to run the FPR at a higher psi like I am?
I also have rdx injectors that I will probably mod and throw in when I put the high boost pulley back on.
So if I run the regular pullet that the SC comes with I should be ok until I can swing the emanage blue and a tune.
I understand you were running lean. Wouldnt it be better to run the FPR at a higher psi like I am?
I also have rdx injectors that I will probably mod and throw in when I put the high boost pulley back on.
I understand you were running lean. Wouldnt it be better to run the FPR at a higher psi like I am?
I also have rdx injectors that I will probably mod and throw in when I put the high boost pulley back on.
I'd swap on the standard pulley for the time being, get yourself an Emanage Blue, then after it gets tuned put back on the HBP and IMRC.
IMRC is disconnected. I think im gonna leave it off regardless. Im going to put the regular pulley on tomorrow morning. Im still wondering why the car is showing misfires on the SnapOn Verus machine but not throwing a CEL for it at all.
Just hooked up the Verus again and went for a drive. Now it shows misfires in all 6 cylinders. It sputters once in a while but drives smooth (didnt take it over 3000rpm). I highly doubt every single coil pack is bad and my car still drives ok.
My fpr is set at about 40psi now.
Under normal operating conditions should I be showing any knock what so ever on this motor? Are there any normal tolerations or expected amounts of knock????
Im wondering if the comptech esm is bad and isnt clamping the voltage at the set 2.88.
My fpr is set at about 40psi now.
Under normal operating conditions should I be showing any knock what so ever on this motor? Are there any normal tolerations or expected amounts of knock????
Im wondering if the comptech esm is bad and isnt clamping the voltage at the set 2.88.
Clear all codes 1 bad coil pack will make them all misfire best way to check is by removing them checking for flexibility & swaping them around & check your plugs make shure theyer all tightened to TQ specs
Just hooked up the Verus again and went for a drive. Now it shows misfires in all 6 cylinders. It sputters once in a while but drives smooth (didnt take it over 3000rpm). I highly doubt every single coil pack is bad and my car still drives ok.
My fpr is set at about 40psi now.
Under normal operating conditions should I be showing any knock what so ever on this motor? Are there any normal tolerations or expected amounts of knock????
Im wondering if the comptech esm is bad and isnt clamping the voltage at the set 2.88.
My fpr is set at about 40psi now.
Under normal operating conditions should I be showing any knock what so ever on this motor? Are there any normal tolerations or expected amounts of knock????
Im wondering if the comptech esm is bad and isnt clamping the voltage at the set 2.88.
The FPR should be 38-40psi, and I am nearly 100% certain of that
You were running IMO extremely rich, pull the plugs and see if they are all filled with gunk from running so rich.
ESM should be 2.9V
http://www.ct-engineering.com/instal...0Checklist.pdf
http://www.ct-engineering.com/instal...0Checklist.pdf
Ok so it started out that cylinder 4 was the first misfire and most consistant. Now keep in mind that I have not shown any check engine light for a misfire but the Verus is showing it. So I thought maybe the coil pack on cyl. 4 was bad so I switched it with cyl.3.
I pulled the plugs and they did look like it was running a bit rich but not fouled out or anything.
The ESM is set at 2.88v and I believe thats where some are running it for the HBP.
The Comptech FPR is set at 40psi on warm idle right now.
Took the car out again and not even 10 seconds later the SnapOn Verus is showing a misfire in cyl. 4 (which now has a diff coilpack on it). After getting on the car a lil bit all cylinders but #1 were showing misfires.
This is really starting to bother me. You cant feel any of them misfiring at any time. But yet the Verus is picking up constant misfires. I just dont understand. Car seems to run fine but I feel like its going to be a silent issue like this that will be a fatal mistake if not taken care of!
Does anyone know if under normal operating conditions should you ever see knock present? The Verus is saying that its retarding the timing as I get into the throttle more. Should this be happening? I thought the ESM stopped the ECU from recognizing any boost.
I pulled the plugs and they did look like it was running a bit rich but not fouled out or anything.
The ESM is set at 2.88v and I believe thats where some are running it for the HBP.
The Comptech FPR is set at 40psi on warm idle right now.
Took the car out again and not even 10 seconds later the SnapOn Verus is showing a misfire in cyl. 4 (which now has a diff coilpack on it). After getting on the car a lil bit all cylinders but #1 were showing misfires.
This is really starting to bother me. You cant feel any of them misfiring at any time. But yet the Verus is picking up constant misfires. I just dont understand. Car seems to run fine but I feel like its going to be a silent issue like this that will be a fatal mistake if not taken care of!
Does anyone know if under normal operating conditions should you ever see knock present? The Verus is saying that its retarding the timing as I get into the throttle more. Should this be happening? I thought the ESM stopped the ECU from recognizing any boost.
The ESM does trick the ECU so it does not see boost.
If the MAP voltage is too high, the ECU will retard timing to prevent knock.
This thread provides good information regarding some of your concerns
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/comptech-supercharger-official-info-thread-585643/
If the MAP voltage is too high, the ECU will retard timing to prevent knock.
This thread provides good information regarding some of your concerns
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/comptech-supercharger-official-info-thread-585643/
Btw ESM 2.88v is for automatic and 2.93v for 6speed. I think i will have same issues but i will fix this. Im going to get tune. OP your blower is leaking i will fix this on the weekend.
I was running HBP for one day. Once i put that on i was shocked by the power i was putting down. First test drive i went on the highway i did like 3rd gear pull and the CEL blinked few times. When i did it again it it became lit. I didnt read the codes. Car was running too lean(11.2-12.4) so i removed blower since i ran into few other minor issues. i decided to fix everything then im gonna put it back go get the tune. Car was running nice on the low boost for a week but a lil bit too rich. My ESM is set for 2.93v. I pulled the blower out already. Question is: can i run without blower with ESM still hooked up ?
I was running HBP for one day. Once i put that on i was shocked by the power i was putting down. First test drive i went on the highway i did like 3rd gear pull and the CEL blinked few times. When i did it again it it became lit. I didnt read the codes. Car was running too lean(11.2-12.4) so i removed blower since i ran into few other minor issues. i decided to fix everything then im gonna put it back go get the tune. Car was running nice on the low boost for a week but a lil bit too rich. My ESM is set for 2.93v. I pulled the blower out already. Question is: can i run without blower with ESM still hooked up ?
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