Disconnected battery to change low beam HID. Now, no power to audio after re-connecting? Did I miss something? All seems to be exactly as I remember. Checked fuse, not the problem. Missing a connector maybe?
Clues would be a help.

 

sorry, vehicle is 01 3.2 CL. no navi.
thanks.

 

No power at all or is it asking for the radio code? You have to enter the radio code to get it to work after a battery disconnect.
http://john-perry.com/acurazine/docu..._new_items.pdf

 

no power. no lighting. no sound.
power outlet , which is on same fuse, works perfectly.

 

Look in your owners manual see if your radio code card is in there,when disconnecting battery, radio code needs to be entered

 

code is not the issue. power to the audio system is the issue. I have radio code. not the first time battery has been disconnected. not getting any juice to the audio. no back light. no CODE in display. no display! power to aux outlet in dash (lighter). security system light does not display either.

 

Did you check the fuses at the passenger side fuse panel? There's one labeled MEM I think it is. That might have blown.

 

+1

 

still frustrated with this. Checked fuse. perfect. checked connections (all I could find). perfect.
Now, I have a bad ballast (HID inverter) on the passenger's side. Could they be from the same issue?
This is killing me, since this is my daily driver...And my iPhone loses signal for about 20 miles of my commute...

 

Ok, this may sound silly, but check your wiring for any exposed/striped wires that may be crossing or shorting on the body. I had an issue like this on my Mustang many years ago where a short to my rear defrost (an exposed wire) was contacting the body and completely knocked out all my rear running lights. Electrical tape (temporary) and the all of a sudden I had power to the lights again.
If not that, get out your multimeter and see if there is power after the fuses. If yes, then there may have been damage to your deck for whatever reasons. If no, then trace back thru the wiring until you find the break.
You can also get a little pen-style current detector ($5 makes a chirping noise if it detects current in a wire) that picks up smaller (12v or less) currents and see if there is a live current going through to the deck itself under the dash. (without having to remove the deck itself)

 

Absolutely! Electrical in a car can be a nightmare to diagnose.