well i had a few things all go wrong around the same time, there was a creeking when i would drive slowly and turn, that was a tie rod or something like that ill have to check my papers, but the shaking while accelerating was 100% the cv joint and my mechanic said that one side had some play so the cv joint was warped causing the shaking

 

Hmmm... seems like the guy seriously shoulda seen that. I asked him to check the CV joints... Maybe he was just lazy and/or a dumbass?

 

well even my mechanic said it would be hard for him to see which side is messed up, but he thought of something i guess lol, take it to a different place

 

my tranny went on me and it NEVER made a vibration(s). only bad shifting and missing gears and stuff of that nature.

I have never had a problem like the one you are describing but if you can bare with my logic on this matter:

You say it only happens when your on the throttle.

So you've now narrowed it down to the powertrain. which leave motor, axles, tranny.

now it could be the motor but I am not around to see how the car drives in comparison to mine. that being said, I'd have to presume it's driving fine. It's pretty DAMN rare to have a motor issue that is relative to speed... and not engine rpm. and from what you've posted... rpm is not relative to the problem.

THEREFORE you're now aiming at the tranny OR the axles..

now if I were you, eliminating the potential problems as i have stated above, I'd replace the Axles. in other words...., w/e the tranny moves, REPLACE it.

and if that don't fix the problem you KNOW it's tranny.

and frankly the odds of it being the tranny from ur description is slim to none, so you SHOULD have the problem eliminated with the replacing of the axles (inner and outter).

ALSO.. does ur D5 blink ever aside from when you start the car..?
that means there is a stored tranny code in the system.

For all you know the guy sold the car cause he couldn't figure out WTF is wrong with it, when it could be as simple as some new axles.

ALSO, the fact you say it progressively got worse leads me to believe the axles are just getting worse.

if it were the tranny getting worse, it's almost impossible that you're shifting would be perfect. Go in ss mode and play around with it. do some downshifts and upshifts paying CLOSE ATTENTION, without throttle off, and then a bit of throttle, then more throttle. See if something fishy is happening, but it probably is going to be fine.

Replace axles bro, i know putting money into something that is not a sure thing is IFFY, but it's ur only option

 

Yeah, I was driving it in sportsshift all day yesterday, and honestly the thing shifts like a brand new car. No weird noises, no jerks, no strange shifting... just perfect.

The tire guy said Axles wouldn't be effected even if you took your foot off the gas - that it would still shake while coasting.

Is he just... wrong?

 

yea thats just wrong, because initially my mechanic thought my tires were warped or my wheels were bent (even tho theyre brand new), but then he noticed that there is NO shaking while just cruising, only when u press the gas and accelerate does the shaking start, so that ruled out the wheels and he right away said it was the cv, definitely get a second opinion

 

so y are u waiting instead of sourcing axles?

 

Only 2 of us work at my store, and my co-worker went out of town for the holidays. I have been working from 9-7 for the past week straight, meanwhile studying for finals and writing final papers.

I'm just dead. It was amazing I made it to the tire shop today.

But, yeah, I'm pretty confident thats what it is. I'm going to give a quick check to the engine mount, and also re-check the spark-plugs. I guess if those check out, I got no other options.

I'll probably drive my old car for the week, and get my Acura fixed next week. Buying the car itself wiped out my wallet.

 

Alright guys, I am no mechanic so I have 2 reall stupid questions:

I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...Q5fAccessories


1) I am not exactly sure what the difference is between a CV join an an axle... You guys seem to use these interchangeably... Will the above item cover what I need?

2) Does the CL-S use the same part as the CL?

 

i THINK the cv joint is the part at the front with the accordion style boot on it, its the part that actually does the work, while the axle refers to the entire part and im not sure about the cl v.s cls, call an acura dealership and ask if its 2 different part #'s

 

oh and btw i would go with oem honda parts, i believe i paid 80$ for it

 

axles are a dime a dozen

 

had a similar problem and no one could diagnose it either (all the same options mentioned here were brought up)...changed all the spark plugs and it fixed the problem. For me it didn't fix the problem instantaneously. I had to put a few miles on the new plugs before it corrected (not sure if this was the computer making adustments).

 

fyi I when i bought my car it had some crappy michelin mxm4 tires on there and the tires themselves were out of wack.. a balance machine could not tell u this.

there was a cross balance issue with regards to the wheels going in and out of wack.. IE they had belt(s) that were screwed..

NO ONE could find the problem, I thought it was me when i did my brakes I re-did them again on 3 different occasions cause I could have sworn it was my own stupidity... but it turned out to be the tires.

but if it only occurs during acceleration it almost certainly must be the motor.

when is the shaking... the whole car? steering wheel, gas pedal... can u narrow it down for us?

 

Gas pedal and car. Its not in the steering at all, wheel stays perfectly still. Its just the pedal and my ass that shake. This is why I thought for sure it was the balance.

And, I still think it could be a tire, I just dont wanna replace all 4 since they all have good tread left.

Is there ANYONE who can diagnose a bad tire properly?

 

lift the car up and feel the tire for any bumps or bubbles. if u feel any replace it, it can blow and cause more damage than is needed.

also if u dont find anything take teh tire off the rim and look inside the tire.

 

would the auto axles fit the cl-6?

 

according to the part numbers, YES

 

i think i have the exact same problem. just started a day or two ago.

the harder you accelerate the more it shakes?

 

Yep.

The more torque, really. Going uphill my car suddenly has a seat-massaging feature.

 

My car was doing the same thing and for over a year I dealt with it. I was got worse, so I stop driving the car for 2 months since I have a company car. Well I have to give the company car back on Wednesday, so I had no choice to get it fixed.

I eliminated my problem down to the axles. I almost bought the center half shaft because the shaking seemed like it was in the center of the car. I seen a grease leak in the inside of the drivers wheel, so I replaced that one first.

Whoo, shaking problem is gone by replacing the driver's side CV joint. Me and my brother in law replace it in 3 hours thanks to stubborn bolts and nuts, but saved $50 in labor that I will use for something else.

FYI, the CV joints where not making any noise. The grease inside the wheel was my clue, the old CV joint was really lose and I was able to move it back and forth while still assembled.

Good luck....

 

I cant believe ur still trying to diagnose this problem.

 

+1 do that first b4 you change cv joints or mounts

 

I have a bad inboard cv joint on the driver's side. Looking to Acura to replace the boot, or Autozone soon for a whole new axle... going the new axle route, is it best to replace both axles so they are the same?

As mentioned above I have a bad cv joint (small tear in the boot, hard to even find!), but I don't have any physical symptoms yet. But I do clean my engine and the tell-tale sign for me was green grease collecting down by the bad boot.

 

^^ i had that happen on my ford probe on BOTH axles at the same time... i let it for a month or 2 and then after a few rainfalls with driving the cv joints lost all the grease and then were basically seized. As soon as u moved the car it was like a train being pulled on tracks SCREEEEEECHING. so funny looking back, new axles was the fix though

 

I know my motor mounts are bad, but your descriptions do sound more like axels...Its an up-down shake, not side to side. Gets worse when i gas harder, being slammed prolly has something to do with it. So replace 2 axles and the problem is fixed?

 

driving slammed will kill the axles faster. and the other moving suspension parts. a price that has to be paid

 

Hahaha lol

 

Just want to update here:

I only have 1 day every 2-3 weeks I can take a car in (due to work/school schedule). So, ever since I made this post I have taken my car to a shop once every 2-3 weeks.

"Its shaking while I accelerate" I would tell them. "I think it might be the Axles"

Every time. EVERY TIME they would say "axles look fine, I think its ______"

One guy told me it was just the alignment.
One guy told me it was transmission.
One guy told me I needed new tires.

I knew these were all wrong, so I continued my search.

FINALLY, last weekend I got a guy to say, "its the motor mounts, definitely. Call this guy to get them fixed"

I still thought it was axles, but at least it was a glimmer hope in a world of getting turned away because the diagnosis was slightly difficult.

So, my appointment with this guy was yesterday. He said, "no, its not the mounts. Its the Axles."

Thank you. Thank god. I knew it.

He replaced both sides with NEW (not rebuilt) axles with labor and tax for $324.

Car drives like a dream.

So, here is my word of advice. If you are having symptoms like mine, you might not be able to tell by looking at them. My car was shaking like I had a square tire, but there wasn't a drop of grease anywhere around the boots.

Don't waste your time asking for diagnosis. Just walk up into an indie-owned shop and say, "I need new axles"

Done and done.

Thanks guys.

 

cool beans, I got 2 new ones from oreilly's for $120 after I brought back the cores. Lifetime warranty. I can stomp it all the way to redline line and it pulls better than new. I would replace them if your car has over 100,000 miles. Night and day difference.