So I just bought my 01' CLS, and I noticed it was shaking around 50 MPH. "No biggy, wheels need balancing," I thought.

This morning, I went and got them balanced. I was certain this would fix it. Unfortunately, the problem persisted.

I did a lot of driving today, and it seemed to get worse. It began shaking at as low as 30 MPH. But, I did make a discovery: It only shakes when I press the gas. To test this, I went on a hilly road and set the cruise at 60 mph. Downhill, rode like a dream. However, as soon as it hit an incline, it started shaking pretty bad. It doesn't shake in the steering, the car itself shakes.

The guy I bought it from said the spark plugs need replacing. Since it seems to be stemming from the engine, and it is getting progressively worse, I am HOPING it is the spark plugs. I bought a set, and I am gonna throw em on as soon as my engine cools down.

If this doesn't work, where should I look first? I am extremely busy this week, so anything to help focus my search is greatly, greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

check engine light on? change the spark plugs, do the seafoam treatment and come back and tell us how its running.

 

Check your inner axle joints.
Does the car seem like its boucing/hopping ?

 

Definitey not the axles or joints. I tested those out, no noises or fishy stuff going on while turning. I will definitely seafoam it to see.

My dad seemsto think it's either the sparkplugs, fuel filter, or distributor cap. I will be replacing all if those tomorrow. Cross your fingers.

EDIT: BTW, no signals are being thrown. Just the SRS light, I really need to reset that lol.

 

it could be your rear motor mount mine did that and i changed that and problem gone but mine did it when u were up around 4000rpms and getn on it, also check and see if wheel bearing are toasted. how many miles?

 

its the inner beast within, unleash it!

lol it might be a motor mount

 

so i just noticed that alot of people on the 2gen CL forum are 21 is that odd?

 

TL side too (i have a TL)

the car is within our price range, in a couple more years there are gonna be a bunch of 16 year olds on here what a sad day it will be

 

does it shake when you rev the engine?

 

they are your axles like Richard said. which side, u gotta figure that out. they're broken internally so u can't just test is my messing around with it.
I changed both of mine when that happened.

Symptoms: FWD, only shakes when the car is driving and you're stepping on the gas, usually at about 30-50mph. feels like a wheel balance issue, but its not.

 

Just put it in neutral and revved it, seemed to be fine. Damn, gotta be those joints eh?

 

The car has 110,000 miles btw.

 

I would check for a bad ignition coil or spark plug. BTW you don't have fuel filter or distributor cap. Should not be cv joints if you don't feel it in your steering wheel. Try power braking your car, see if it is smooth. You will probably find front and side mount broken but that is not your cause of vibration. Oh, maybe a leaky valve cover o ring and oil got into one of the plugs.

 

if it revs smooth and runs good and quiet at idle, probably not the engine then.

 

If it feels like the car is jerking ...its prob the spark plugs .

 

we dont have one. we got coil on plug. a bad coil can cause what u have but ud get a cel.

 

If it was a bad coil pack the CEL light would be on.
And the car would shake when parked..
Maybee bad engine mount, they do go bad alot!

 

Inner joint won't make noise when you turn,just so you know.
My car did the same thing and could not find the problem.
Car vibration got worse over a 2 week period. And The worse it got the more it would shake,vibrate,and hop.Till it was at less than 30mph.
I've drove some shitty cars before getting raise in a junk yard.
And my cl got so bad I brought it right to a shop and had someone else look for the issue insted of me driving back to the house and looking again.
It got to the point where I thought it was really un safe to be on the road.

 

quit wasting ur time and change the axles.

u cant put it on the lift and check for that problem. That problem only occurs when ur on the road and accelerating. there is no other way to test it.

 

Also have you had the 100K timing belt, water pump and shit done? if not id step that way first then check the axles and the plugs and the wheel bearing and motor mounts..... also ball joints check anything that can go bad!

 

^ Timing belt and water pump before checking axles, huh?--------OK--------

Might as well rebuild my heads before I check where a exhaust leak is comming from too ,right ?

pull the rubbers back on the axles free.
Timing belt maintence hundreds$$$$

Your advise is foolish

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I am at work right now, I left my car with my dad - hes changing all the sparkplugs and doing some general maintenance.

Also, I know for a fact the 100k maintenance was done, so all the necessary belts and stuff are all new.

If the spark plugs don't help, I'll definitely just get some axle work done.

Ballpark, how much should it cost? I have a pretty good idea which wheel it might be, as he said the front right wheel was "way out of balance" as the guy told me.

 

it was more or less some advise that if the car is having problems then it probably needs maintenance. and yes the timing belt is expensive but a motor is too.... and i didnt mean to say that it should be done first but should probably be done sooner than later

 

being out of balance for a long time could cause a mess of problems like axles,wheel bearing,ball joints....but best of luck

 

2 axles = $100. labor can be 50 - 100 bucks.

 

It can also be the motor mounts. so diagnosing the issue isnt a waste of time. Mine did something very similar never happened at 30 but any where on the hwy when i would accelerate it would shake. Replaced the bad mounts and it was gone. If he is on the original mounts they are most likely beyond shot as these things are good for about 50k easy miles 30-40k hard

 

It almost feels like it could be the mounts. I have been at work all week, so not much time to diagnose/take it anywhere.

Next Monday, I will take it back to the place that balanced the tires and have them check the axles. If they seem legit, I'll then turn to the motor mounts.

How much would fixing the mount cost?

 

witch mount/s were your faulty one's or did you just replace all.

 

Question:

Lets assume his problem is the axles as suggested by a couple of members as I think his problem is either mounts or axles...

What is the process to remedy this?...What parts are need if any from OEM? or is it a matter of rebuild the axles or replace certain parts? 'nspec_ya4' indicated its only $100 for 2 axles... can this be elaborated on?

From the OEM part sites, the prices range from:
1__44014-S0K-C01 CV JOINT SET, OUTBOARD__$214 (EACH)
2__44310-S84-A60 JOINT, INBOARD__ $244 (EACH)

If you cant do a visual inspection and determine the remedy from a road test, how do you know if its inboard or outboard related?

Thanks

 

I replaced front, side and rear (rear i dont believe was bad but the front im surprised my motor was able to stay under the hood was so bad. Since i converted to a 6 speed i have gone thru 2 sides and 2 fronts in 100k and they are shot again.

 

The mounts depending on which ones you replace are going to run somewhere in teh neighbor hood of 2-350 dollars for the 2-3 of them

 

Inboard and outboard are just that, there is the inner CV and the outer CV what you are looking at i believe is just a rebuild kit of parts for inner or outer. To get the priced he said is for the complete axle (a rebuilt unit or aftermarket brand) from a auto parts store, the complete axle from acura ais 600+$

 

cheap whole axle assemblys can be bought off ebay for about $90 shipped each.
They wont last as long as factory ones but ,for a 1/6 the price you could buy 6 and that would seam like the way I would go,if that was your issue.

 

Autozone axles FTW. Lifetime warranty. Bring them the old one, they hand you a new one = done.

I think my axles are starting to shit the bed too.

 

i had ebay axles on my ford probe and i BEAT the shit out of that thing. LIKE i killed the motor in 70000kms and 40/50000kms of those were with the ebay cheepos.... and they were great actually..

suprisingly.

so there is hope

 

did you ever find out what the issue was?

 

One other thing to check is take the upper intake cover off (the silver plate that sticks up thru the engine cover) and make sure the gasket is on correctly

 

Ok, just got the car back from the Tire Shop.

He took it for a drive on the interstate, put it on the lift, etc.

He said there was absolutely nothing wrong with my tires, joints, axles, or anything underneath.

He told me he thought it seemed like a tranny issue and referred me to a tranny shop. Of course, they are a tire shop and can't even begin to diagnose something like that - just his opinion.

Now, I don't particularly believe him, as I have had cars with tranny problems and this doesn't really seem to fit. But, obviously, I wasn't excited about the diagnosis considering the CL's tranny issues.

But, you guys are the long-time CL owners. Do these symptoms at ALL fit the criteria of a dying CL transmission? I was under the impression that it kinda died suddenly, downshifting and doing incorrect things. Mine is still shifting like a dream, shifting correctly.

I am still leaning toward engine mount. But, none of my diagnoses really make sense, as the engine is quiet as hell.

Also, the guy mentioned that when he was driving it, it kinda "pulled" the steering at some point. He said this was a "torque pull," but personally, I've never noticed it.

Anyway, back to square one I guess?

 

i had a similar problem only during acceleration it was a cv joint

 

TypeStylinOnU, did you notice any other symptoms when your CV joint was bad? I mean, did it make noises while turning or do anything else?

its possible it is the CV joints and the guy was just not a good tire guy, lol.

I'm going to check the mounts when I get home, but I still feel like it could be the CV joints.