yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Ok, today is the day she goes into place. I'll take as many pics as I can throughout the process and update it at the end with a start up video. We close here at the shop at 2:00 today and I've already made arrangements for the kids to spend the day with their grandparents. Today is the day!

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

This thread is awesome I just got lost for about an hour. I want one!!!!!

fsttyms1

Updates?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

As promised. Some j37 install scenery that went down today. The first pic was taken at 2:30pm and was basically a marker point at which time the engine install began. I believe this was probably the quickest its ever taken on getting an engine installed and test started...


Picture of the engine and trans bolted onto the subframe and positioned in manner that it almost installs itself. Once the car is lowered onto the assembly, it's a matter of aligning the steering rack transmission up with the steering column shaft and then installing six large bolts to secure everything in place. Btw, that lame severely undersized radiator will become comical in the very near future. The new radiator is a monster in comparison.




And here's a shot after everything was bolted in and starting to get things ready for a test fire. Basically just hooking the necessities up like the engine harness and fuel lines.


Car in the air, subframe bolted and attached. No more hoist to hold the engine. She's in!


And if it will work properly, the start up vid. This was a quick start only to ensure the engine fired over and started before fully installing it.
D062C72B-98E4-4071-A1C4-F4570C5F71CF-742-00000055E8ED932F_zps3989d8f0.mp4

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Sorry that's as good as I could get the video. Just click the small empty box at the end of the post above. It's there.

037

only way I managed to see it was by "saving target as", but I can confirm there is smoke.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

The soon to be installed aluminum radiator modified with AN hose fittings and dual Mishimoto slim design cooling fans. It also has an auxiliary fluid cooler that I may use for an oil cooler or I may add a separate cooler for this, still unsure.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

that is a great looking radiator....

about the install, quit making it look sooo simple Robert...

Marcelechka

Camera man cracks me up! LMFAO

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

FLAMESSSS !!!

I feel honored Robert

fsttyms1

It is simple. Though I dropped my engine and trans in from the top

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

if I tried to do that....my ass will literally DROP the engine and trans LOL

Marcelechka

I take it that was you?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

nope....he just sent it to me

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Alright, so I've ran into a few issues here that may slow my progress down. First is I'm have ZERO room between radiator and turbo manifolds anymore due to the larger capacity. I may have to get creative with how I cool this thing because I'm not changing anything. Also, the wrap for the turbo setup isn't too appealing to me anymore and may end up removing it and doing some sort of thermal coating/barrier to help stave off heat. Thing is I may have to do this myself because everyone locally is asking stupid money for this and are several days behind schedule. I should know something here pretty soon. It's killing me not to start this beast, ahhhh!

Marcelechka

Exactly! Can't go wrong doing it yourself... (assuming you have the necessary tools to complete the job of course); worked for me!

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

CLsuperhero

... Soon

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

^^^
Very

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

Awesome thread I'm still only half way threw it. Looking to take my j32a2 to a 3.6 hybrid I have learned a lot from you thread thanks. I'm sure I will have a question along the way but you have done a great job with the details thanks.

fsttyms1

90mm tb to 09 tl intake mani adapter

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

YEAH baby !!!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Just wanted to let everyone know the car is very close to being complete. I had a business opportunity appear out of no where by the grace of God and so I'm focusing attentively right now in making sure I achieve it. I would say its unfortunate I can't invest money into my car for the time being but that wouldn't be an accurate statement.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Good luck brethren

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

It's been a few days since I've given an update and I had a few minutes to so while eating lunch so here I am. Things didn't exactly turn out that well with the engine unfortunately. After the initial ring seating had taken place, each time the engine was started, a problem was becoming noticeably worse as the engine ran longer and longer. Long story short, Total Seal Gapless rings SUCK! They will not seat to the cylinder walls and are even beginning to glaze them as I seen by scoping the cylinders. This isn't just one cylinder either, this is ALL cylinders. The one time I decided to use aftermarket piston rings, I got burned....and so did my oil.

I was able to take a video before things got too bad with the smoking and I'll post that for everyone to see. Cams sound great as well! Just too bad she all has to come back apart again just to replace the rings with oem ones. It may be a while before she's fixed because as I mentioned, I'm about to start my own automotive electrical repair business on September 1st and won't have much free time. But I'm not giving up the ghost just yet people, it just comes down to taking care of my family first and ensuring my own.

Anyways, here's the video:

037

hey, congrats on starting your own business and don't worry about us. We have our own lives and we can see you burn your engine some other time!

disclaimer: I did not watch your videos (no burning tires = no watch)

fsttyms1

Have you contacted them to let them know of the issue? What have they said?

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

Its crazy how the smallest of things can cause the biggest problems, can't wait to see it running. Congratulations on the business that's awesome.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Yes, the first thing I did when ever I began seeing issues with the rings seating was research Total Seal Gapless rings online and found their were so many others that had experienced the EXACT same problem as me. After reading/collecting a few stories, I picked up the phone and spoke with the guy who had originally sold me the rings at their facility. As I expected, we went step by step on how engine assembly was performed and my method was scrutinized with a fine tooth comb and I felt like I was almost being asked trick questions at times so a fault could be pinned on me. But after nearly 40 minutes over the phone, the conversation basically ended with him telling me to just simply "return the rings" to him as soon as I could so they exchange them....as if I was about to perform the same dumbass move ALL over again!

This was a stupid (previous lesson learned) mistake on my behalf and I'm quite honestly a little embarrassed to admit that I even chose aftermarket ring supplier to begin with because anyone that asks me for advice they know I'm an absolute stickler over using new oem parts.

It's ok though. I continue to walk and my opinion in parts like this will just be concreted even more so...life goes on.

How's your build Kris...wanna buy some slightly used Total Seal rings? Lol

Thanks for the congrats. I'm so stoked right now about this turn in my life but TBH, it's taken from my passion of working on cars and that is aggravating me! All this preparation stuff needs to get over with. Haha....seriously though, I appreciate the earnest remark.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Have you pulled pistons back out yet to see if ring gaps are lined up right? when i installled my pistons the compressor i used missaligned my gaps.it took a couple trys to get them to stay where i put them.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Many people dont realize that the piston rings start spinning in the ring lands as soon as the engine is spun over by the starter. This is because that what they're designed to due. This is a effect caused by the crosshatched area on the cylinder wall. The ring literally follows these micro-grooves as the piston is reciprocating in the cylinder. The more extreme that the angles are of these crosshatches, the faster the rings will soon and rotate. Having said that, the rings will align frequently while the engine is running without having any effect on the engines power or drivability. This practice is normally performed merely to obtain truer leakdown levels before installing and running a fresh build.

Plain and simple, the rings just have to be replaced. I'd say the biggest reason why things went sour was because the j37 blocks are entirely aluminum throughout and this includes the cylinders themselves. From what I've seen, Acura doesn't use the rings that come with the aluminum cylinder blocks with ANY cast iron cylinder blocks so I'm sure there is a reason for this. Perhaps the rings wear/break-in differently due to the softer material used and this could be why I'm experiencing issues here. Although, Total Seal did assure me there would be no problems. Makes me wonder...

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

I had no idea about cross hatching in that manor . Very neat .

fsttyms1

Thats shitty. It sounds like they just dont want to find a way to not have to stand behind their product.

I had some time last night and got the major parts assembled

zlatank

This is one of the most impressive, detailed and informative posts I have ever seen on any forum, hats off to you sir for all your effort!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

It's normally the small simple facts about something that intrigue us the most isn't it?

Motor looks great Kris, wow. I took some time and browsed through your photobucket account and there's some great shots in there. That TB looks like it means business man. The photo you posted above that shows the piston at deck TDC sure looks like its doming. Did you have the block decked at all? It could just be the picture but thought I'd ask. Again, looks great sir.

Thanks. It's mainly due to my overly expressive style in writing (or typing) but I am glad it's helped and/or entertained a few people.

***UPDATE***

Might as well post an update while answering responses.

Starting tomorrow, I take ownership of a shop here in Plano, Tx called Auto Electric Services. It's actually a shop that I was both a manager and lead technician at for around 7 or 8 years (lost count). Starting on Tuesday, it will be reopened. This should allow me to get things going again on the Accord. It's been nearly 2 weeks since I've put the engine together just to realize it had an issue because of the Total Seal rings that were used. I haven't decided on if I'm removing the entire sub frame again or just the heads and oil pan. Normally, this would not be a difficult decision but reinstalling everything after the rings are replaced is made much more complicated due to all the additional plumbing, lines, accessories, additional BS that's added from the turbo setup. Not to mention everything else I've added to the engine. It's a very lengthy job for reassembly on this car. Especially for me because I'm very thorough and a perfectionist about even the smallest of details...at least on the motor anyhow.

My goal is to have it corrected by my second week back at the shop. I guess this all depends on how busy we get after reopening though. I'll keep this thread updated though.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Congrats Rob....

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

nice Rob!

fsttyms1

Thanks. Yes, it was decked. After putting in the Block guard I had it machined to make sure that any distortion was taken out. It was decked .006. Slightly more than the factory recommended but it will be fine. The piston sits slightly below at the edge, with a .004 rise above in the center. Pics make it look like its really doming. Going off of the Cyl head and piston volume you posted combined with my deck height and the .027 head gasket the specs show me just shy of 12:1
I was told the Valvetrain package from KMS offered valves that could raise the compression. I was contemplating getting them to get to the 12:1 mark



This is about the best profile shot of it

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

So you're at 12:1 and trying to go higher? Unless you are running race fuel or at least a race/premium mixture, I wouldn't advise going that high. These motors have issues upwards beyond 11.8:1 from I've seen and heard (numerous times). They heat soak very easily and quickly. Once heat soak sets in, it's hard to stay out of detonation. My j35a8 did this a few times this past summer with my undersized cooling system and boosted setup. That's why you see me moving to a larger cooling system and reduced boost...and that was at only 11:1 WITH methanol-water injection. Acura has gone as high as 11.2:1 with their production engines and that only started when they began using oil jets, aluminum pistons and cylinders, as well as higher capacity cooling systems (water pump, radiator, heads).

Even at 11.2:1, which is where I'm setting at currently, I felt it was a wrong move on the build but I figured as long as I dial the boost pressures down and utilize a knock controller, I may be a little safer. IMO, the additional 15hp (roughly) gained from a full point of compression isn't worth the trouble. That's is, unless one is using the extra compression on a NA build and they plan on using higher octane fuel WITH the ability to tune for the fuel. Otherwise, you just might be setting yourself up here.

I know you're an old school guy (as am I) when it comes to cars. I've built several small blocks and those things can be ran at 12.0-12.5:1 CR simply by baking off the timing when you feel detonation. With these engines, ignition retard (or fuel richening for that matter) doesn't seem to do much except cause power to diminish. I honestly haven't figured out what it is yet BUT I do know that heat saturation seemed to have a big play in it. It may even be that we don't have adjustable cam gears to make a mechanical timing alteration (as a distributor on a small block) and the ECM just doesn't respond well with this because its not designed to work on these tables. And I'm speaking of the j35a8 ECM here...even being tuned by Hondata.

fsttyms1

I need to proof what type better.

It was supposed to read
I was told the Valvetrain package from KMS offered valves that could raise the compression. Going off of the Cyl head and piston volume you posted combined with my deck height and with the .027 head gasket the specs show me just shy of 12:1 I was contemplating getting them to get to the 12:1 mark

I was contemplating running the higher comp valves to get to closer to the 12:1, as i stand im at or around 11.4-11.7 with .030/.027 head gasket (with your CC specs)

Seeing im going to stay NA i dont think ill have a problem with 11.5:1. Ill most likely end up with a full standalone to do so properly and safely. Ive gone as high as 12.5:1 before on one of my hondas. That was a fun one. Someone needs to come up with a set of adjustable cam gears that dont change the pickup on the rear of the gear when adjusted.


Yea i built a 327 and it was 12.7:1 on 91. I liked the simplicity of it. Dial in the timing and away you went. Though i still dont think its heads flowed anywhere near what these honda heads are capable of. Ill be throwing in a different cam and some roller rockers on my 350 in my ski boat this winter. I love how cheap hp is for the 350s.