WOOD TRIM AND WINDOW TINTING
WOOD TRIM AND WINDOW TINTING
Hello all,
I am glad to finally joined the forum for I have just purchased my CLS last night. As a newbie, I would like to ask for your opinions regarding...
1) the dealer installed wood trim around the gauge cluster...does it look cheesy?
2) window tint...does metallic film interfere with the NAV operations? what brand of film should I use? where can I find a reputable tint shop in Northern Virginia.
3)and, lastly, how do I properly break-in the car.
Thank you in advance!
I am glad to finally joined the forum for I have just purchased my CLS last night. As a newbie, I would like to ask for your opinions regarding...
1) the dealer installed wood trim around the gauge cluster...does it look cheesy?
2) window tint...does metallic film interfere with the NAV operations? what brand of film should I use? where can I find a reputable tint shop in Northern Virginia.
3)and, lastly, how do I properly break-in the car.
Thank you in advance!
to answer # 3. Just don't floor it all the way until 750 miles. after that "drive it like you stole it!"
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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
1. Yes, very cheesy. JMO though
2. Yes, many members have reported that metallic tint impairs the navigation system.
3. Read your manual for good info on the break-in period. Like NOVA said... don't floor it. And don't use your cruise control... keep the revs fluctuating.
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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red (Navigation)
PIAA 19173 Ion Yellow Fog Lights
Aftermarket Black Wood Trim Kit
2. Yes, many members have reported that metallic tint impairs the navigation system.
3. Read your manual for good info on the break-in period. Like NOVA said... don't floor it. And don't use your cruise control... keep the revs fluctuating.
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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
San Marino Red (Navigation)
PIAA 19173 Ion Yellow Fog Lights
Aftermarket Black Wood Trim Kit
Hey peewee......congrats on purchasing a great car. I love mine so much I washed it last night at 11:30 and got up this morning to wax it and Armor-All the tires. BEAUTIFULLLLLLLL BABY. One of my all time favorite cars and I've had over 30 of them.
PS: I'm the "older guy" here.
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CL-S PDG, TR Typhoon Wheels, Solaris 9005, guards, nose mask, V-1 & remote.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...493&p=31386570
PS: I'm the "older guy" here.
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CL-S PDG, TR Typhoon Wheels, Solaris 9005, guards, nose mask, V-1 & remote.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...493&p=31386570
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Henry:
Mettalic tint shouldn't have any effect on the GPS navigation system.
</font>
Mettalic tint shouldn't have any effect on the GPS navigation system.
</font>
Even if you actually have a CL with navigation, and have managed to tint the the car with metallic tint, and YOUR NAV doesn't seem to be affected, I think you're giving peewee a bum steer here.
Metallic tinting CAN and frequently DOES degrade the performance of Navigation systems. The CL is particularly susceptible to this problem because of it's rear window location.
If your hypothesis is based on actual experience, why not share with us the brand of metalic tint you are using successfully?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Water Rabbit:
</font>
</font>
Hey Henry, are you just guessing about this?
Even if you actually have a CL with navigation, and have managed to tint the the car with metallic tint, and YOUR NAV doesn't seem to be affected, I think you're giving peewee a bum steer here.
Metallic tinting CAN and frequently DOES degrade the performance of Navigation systems. The CL is particularly susceptible to this problem because of it's rear window location.
If your hypothesis is based on actual experience, why not share with us the brand of metalic tint you are using successfully?[/QUOTE]
It really shouldn't be affecting our GPS but I to tell you the truth I think it dos. The tint is on the INSIDE and the GPS sensor thingy is on the OUTSIDE so it shouldn't effect us. But sometimes I've noticed that I've drifted off the map more than a few times...
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~Phil~!
2K1 satin silver CL-S since 6/13/00 named Laetitia! ~Quantum tint~ ~Hiper Hibrid Plasma Xenon road lamps AND high-beams~ ~spoiler, baby!!~ ~Uniden LRD 6599SWS Radar Detector~ ~Shine by Meguiar's Gold Wax~ ~Member of the Scratched Rims Club~ ~Getting a red Acura badge shortly.~ ~Xephyr CAI on the way!(if it ever ships)~
Former post count : Over 500!! FREAK!
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I have my window tinted with 35% formula
one metallic film for 4 month already,the
Navi in my car works pretty good so far,I
haven't noticed any degrade yet...^_^
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2001 CL-S Black/Navi
35% tint/annoying rattles
one metallic film for 4 month already,the
Navi in my car works pretty good so far,I
haven't noticed any degrade yet...^_^
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2001 CL-S Black/Navi
35% tint/annoying rattles
I have navigation and I have my car tinted with 99% metallic 1% dye tint. The front/quarter panel windows are limo and the rear windshield is 35%. Only thing I have noticed is that when the car is just starting up after sitting for hours the navigation is slow to respond to the touch screen and navigation seems to be slow. But after warming up it seems as fast and as accurate as before the tint.
Don't know why people are having difficulties with their navigation, is the antenna for the gps inside the car, or is it somehow attatched to the windshield radio antenna? It seems that having the gps antenna inside the passanger area of the car is kind of strange.
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'01 Acura CL Type S nothing special yet but give me a month or so.
Don't know why people are having difficulties with their navigation, is the antenna for the gps inside the car, or is it somehow attatched to the windshield radio antenna? It seems that having the gps antenna inside the passanger area of the car is kind of strange.
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'01 Acura CL Type S nothing special yet but give me a month or so.
i haven't seen just wood around the gauges--i have seen a website that carries complete add-on wood kits. the site is at www.wooddash.com . they are fairly easy to install yourself rather than have a dealer do it for you. enjoy your car!
I had a very good mechanic friend tell me that during a break-in period you want to:
1. Keep the RPMs low, but _DO NOT_ lug the engine (lugging the engine is when you are in too high of a gear for whatever speed you are travelling. You usually don't have to worry about this in an automatic). Also, _DO NOT_ redline the engine, and pretty much stay in the mid-RPMs (2k-4k) as much as possible.
2. Alternate putting pressure on and releasing pressure from the accelerator when you are travelling a fixed speed. It feels a little strange because you're causing a sort of "pumping" motion, accelerating and deccelerating slightly whenever you pump the accelerator, but this pressure causes the rings around the pistons to expand and contract, which will help them carve grooves in the cylinder wall and seat properly.
3. Don't put too much of a load on your engine. Don't pull a trailer or anything like that. Just take it easy until you're past the break-in period.
The purpose of the break-in period is really to make sure your rings get seated properly. If your rings don't seat properly you won't get good compression and your engine life will suffer. The thing most people don't realize is that you put more wear on your engine during your break-in period than you do at any other time during the life of your car.
Also, another thing to do that Acura doesn't mention: It's not a bad idea to change your oil after your break-in period. There are a lot of small metal fragments floating around in your oil due to the seating of the rings (they are carving grooves in your cylinder walls pretty much like the rifling on the barrel of a gun) and those metal fragments will cause wear on your engine.
Do this and you can plan on getting at least 200-300k miles from your Honda/Acura powerplant...
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2001 CL-S or 2002 TL-S coming soon...
1. Keep the RPMs low, but _DO NOT_ lug the engine (lugging the engine is when you are in too high of a gear for whatever speed you are travelling. You usually don't have to worry about this in an automatic). Also, _DO NOT_ redline the engine, and pretty much stay in the mid-RPMs (2k-4k) as much as possible.
2. Alternate putting pressure on and releasing pressure from the accelerator when you are travelling a fixed speed. It feels a little strange because you're causing a sort of "pumping" motion, accelerating and deccelerating slightly whenever you pump the accelerator, but this pressure causes the rings around the pistons to expand and contract, which will help them carve grooves in the cylinder wall and seat properly.
3. Don't put too much of a load on your engine. Don't pull a trailer or anything like that. Just take it easy until you're past the break-in period.
The purpose of the break-in period is really to make sure your rings get seated properly. If your rings don't seat properly you won't get good compression and your engine life will suffer. The thing most people don't realize is that you put more wear on your engine during your break-in period than you do at any other time during the life of your car.
Also, another thing to do that Acura doesn't mention: It's not a bad idea to change your oil after your break-in period. There are a lot of small metal fragments floating around in your oil due to the seating of the rings (they are carving grooves in your cylinder walls pretty much like the rifling on the barrel of a gun) and those metal fragments will cause wear on your engine.
Do this and you can plan on getting at least 200-300k miles from your Honda/Acura powerplant...

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2001 CL-S or 2002 TL-S coming soon...
You mean "Drive it like its HOT, Drive it like its HOT."
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BODIZAFA
SATIN SILVER CL-S w/NAVIGATION
Dazz Matiz 19x8 wheels/Dark tint all around/All weather mats/Mudguards/Wheel locks/2-12" Apline Bass Subwoofers.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NOVAwhiteTypeS:
to answer # 3. Just don't floor it all the way until 750 miles. after that "drive it like you stole it!"
</font>
to answer # 3. Just don't floor it all the way until 750 miles. after that "drive it like you stole it!"
</font>
------------------
BODIZAFA
SATIN SILVER CL-S w/NAVIGATION
Dazz Matiz 19x8 wheels/Dark tint all around/All weather mats/Mudguards/Wheel locks/2-12" Apline Bass Subwoofers.
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