Wierd problem, gheyness inside.
#1
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Thread Starter
![Question](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
I demodded the top end of my engine...took the cold air intake off, the Type-S intake mani, thermoblock spacers, and the UniChip.
Plugged the battery back in, started her up (obviously with the OEM stuff back in, minus the silencer for the intake) and the flippin RPMs are bouncing up and down like nuts. I put in Neutral and the RPMs are still bouncing up and down. I put in Reverse and Drive and the RPMs stayed at 1k but started to dip up and down like it was going to die when I drove it around a bit.
Curious if any of you guys thinks it is the Idle Air Control Valve. If so, how do you clean it, and/or how would you replace it?
I've already searched but need more insight.
I've already done an ECU reset and still no good.
Thanks,
Tom
Plugged the battery back in, started her up (obviously with the OEM stuff back in, minus the silencer for the intake) and the flippin RPMs are bouncing up and down like nuts. I put in Neutral and the RPMs are still bouncing up and down. I put in Reverse and Drive and the RPMs stayed at 1k but started to dip up and down like it was going to die when I drove it around a bit.
Curious if any of you guys thinks it is the Idle Air Control Valve. If so, how do you clean it, and/or how would you replace it?
I've already searched but need more insight.
![Tongue](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I've already done an ECU reset and still no good.
Thanks,
Tom
#3
Moderator Alumnus
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by The Dougler
check to make sure you bleed the cooling system properly when you replaced the intake mani gaskets. When I replaced my timing belt on my old accord I had the same situation and it turned out I did not bleed the upper block bleeder valve and solved the problem.
#5
Moderator Alumnus
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by o1s
either that or a small split or disconnected vacuum line
#6
slobalt defender
i had that problem when i put my S manifold on, i took everything off and put everything back on and retightened and it went away.
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#8
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by o1s
spray all the vacume lines with carb cleaner and see if the idling corrects itself for a second. if it does then there is a leak in one of the lines.
#11
03 Anth Type S 6 Speed
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it is definitely a vacuum line. I remember when i had a line split the rpm's would go insane. Just double check your work and you will find it.
#16
Senior Moderator
good. I was going to say check all gaskets. Sounded like a vacuum leak
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