Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

I just took in my car becuase there is a small oil leak that looks like rear main, coming right where engine and tranny meet right below that little inspection plate. They said it could be the rear main seal, or the front input shaft seal. They couldnt tell so they put dye in my system and told me to come back later in the week. I know what the rear main seal is, but whats the front input shaft seal? Is that something that they have to pull the tranny to replace too? Im just curious, the service tech wasnt very clear to me. They charged me 60 bux to put dye in my engine! Service is now 120 bux an hour, what a freakin rip! No wonder people cant afford to keep cars up anymore.

2CLean

Are they referring to the front crank shaft seal, maybe? That's my guess since they mentioned it in relation to the rear seal. If so, it's a simple fix - $10 from the stealership + labor, or if you've ever swapped your crank pulley, it's as simple as that to replace it.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Nope they said input shaft seal. Something going into the tranny or something like that. He didnt explain it very clearly.

Allout

Just had mine done. It's the seal on the gearbox input shaft. To replace it, you have to remove the gearbox and open it up. The input shaft sits behind a bearing once they open up the gearbox. When they dropped the gearbox, they also found the main seal at the back of the motor was leaking also. Great time to re-do your clutch while they're in there. I've got a brand new factory OEM friction disk if you're interested.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so if the input shaft seal is leaking, than would it be leaking tranny fluid or motor oil?

Zippee

If it's the input shaft you will leak tranny oil, if it's the engine rear main seal it will be engine oil. That's why the dye so they can tell which it is.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

In either case the tranny needs to come out & that = $$ in labor

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

i bought the extended warranty that covers seals and gaskets, with a zero deductable! So either way it shouldnt cost me a thing, unless i decide to do the clutch at the same time, because the warranty wont cover wear items, unless of course oil leak has the direct cause for the clutch failure

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

oh so why are you giving labor rates? If it's covered great!

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Because the warranty company wasnt going to pay for something unless theres an actual repair so i had to pay 60 bux for them to put some dye in my oil that took all of like 5 or 10 minutes. But ohh well i suppose. I couldnt fix it if i had to pay for it..no way i can afford that much right now just being a student

Allout

How many miles on yours?

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

52,300 roughly

Allout

Labor on this job is around $800. Since they had the gearbox out, the dealer didn't charge me any additional labor to change some of my Clutch parts. If your pressure plate and flywheel are fine, I would at least throw in a fresh friction disk. I've got two brand new OEM ones that I didn't use since I've got a Comptech flywheel. PM me if you're interested in one. I'll give you a great deal.

If you replace the friction disk and throw out bearing while they're in there, you wouldn't need to replace your clutch for quite a long time. The labor is the expensive part.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

If they do go in there i will just have them do everything..replace whatever seal is leaking under warranty, than plus do the other one that is not and do a full clutch. That way i wont have to ever worry about doin any of that again. I dont want to have to pay 800 or so dollers for labor for a part i shoulda just done now for whats being covered under warranty

Allout

Good choice.

I also bought my clutch kit online and saved some money.