Real fast and quick questions...

If your 100% sure than answer...

What is the Diameter size piping of the collector (A-pipe) on the CompTECH headers..???

The size of the pipe between the Header and Cat???

the size of the INLET of the CAT ...???

Smitty

 

So ... nobody knows???

 

where did you end up with this?

 

2 inch is what I heard from a little birdie...

The piece will be ordered today and overnighted, hopefully on Friday, Dyno first of next week...

 

2" from collector to the cat? I thought it would be at least 2 1/2".

 

yeah I know... I am making the call now and I will report back

 

info?

 

2-1/4 from the Header collector to the Cat and from the cat to the mufflers... all 2-1/4.... it has to be 2-1/4 because you use factory gaskets when you bolt the C/T headers to the stock exhaust.... Damn, I am sooo dumb...

The J pipe coming off the headers and into the A pipe is 2 inch..

Damn, I answered my own thread....lol....

 

Quick Time has the 2 1/4" size e-cutout. http://www.quicktimeperformance.com./qtec.htm

 

Yeah but I was thinking bigger is better...

I have limited space, so this might be the way to go!!!..

My initial thoughts... expander from header flange 2-1/4 to 2.5, then 2.5 cut out, then reducer to 2-1/4 to cat, then dual t403 stainless to a 2-1/4 reducer into the mufflers. (minus the resonators too)


My new thoughts... 2-1/4 dump and leave the rest alone... hope to hell the OBDII doesn't trip the lights and that will be it... If it does, i build simulators, purge the code and everyone is happy..


Your thoughts Brad?


Smitty

 

I want the quietest system 95% of the time or more. It's been said changing the stock Type-S exhaust would show little if any gains, but that was w/o the b-pipe. Me personally, I'd keep the stock exhaust, and throw the e-cutout on for those special ocasions. If a full-cat back could give me 10+hp, and be stock quiet or just a low grumble, I'd consider the cost and go from there. I might try the Comptech b-pipe, or have a muffler shop clean it up. As far as size goes,....I wonder what size the Comptech b-pipe is going to B!

 

Here is the situation...

2-1/4 flange with a 2.5 cut out <-- I will be moving more air velocity than an open 3 inch exhaust system.

Game plan... off to the dyno...

Run #1. I am unbolting the muffler.

Run #2. I am unbolting the cat.

This should tell me where I should place the cut-out... Not every car needs the cut-out before the cat..... you need a good 12-18 inches from the first OBDII (Due to back pressure..,) which is right before the Cat... I will still have exhaust gases going into the cat... BUT this is where is gets good... I can order all different types of angled flanges..they range--45-90 degree. so this will dictate how much gas carries through the cat converter. So in relation, I might not need to build a simulator for the cats O2 sensor... Yippeee, but no biggie...... and I can leave everything else stock.... not to mention I can spend my money elsewhere instead of waiting for C/T...

3.245 seconds and the bitch is 100% wide open.... HEAR ME SCREAM!!...lol...

Also, 2 gains to this besides horsepower.. might lose alittle torgue, but guess what?... Who cares down low on a front wheel drive car, I will not REALLY smoke the tires launching the car..
and
I can wire it in so that it delays and then starts to open when under WOT.....so I lose NO torque

Oh sooo sweeeet..

 

2-1/4... got to bolt up to stock exhaust or C/T exhaust..... it does not look like any reducers are used from 2.5 to 2-1/4.

 

Good plan. I never thought of "after the cat" as an option.

So are you saying the cutout pipe that goes straight thru would be 2 1/4" and the open end of the Y would be 2 1/2"?

 

Yep.... the flange will be 2-1/4 and the ----
\ <--- will be 2.5 piping with a 2.5 valve.

 

That'll work!

O.T.,.....I think Steve might be with his :-* having ! I thought he said something about "Wednesday at the latest".

 

Unless my ruler is broken the CT header collector is 2 inches ID .Did I goof?
Jens

 

No goof on your part, your the GREAT ONE....... I called C/T to confirm since you were spouting off about the J-Pipe before the header collector.. I think your right about the J-pipe/down pipe on the rear bank being 2 inch.. and so is the front bank too.. they collect in the A-pipe (2-1/4) then 1st O2 sensor then header collector... I smacked myself on the head when I realized that the GASKETS are the same size as stock... Which means only 1 thing.. the headers have to bolt up the Stock exhaust system so they in turn have to be the same size as the rest of the stock system... which is 2-1/4...

Yeah Brad, I think your right on about PAPPY Calbert... Hope all is well!!!

 

Whoops...I made a mistake!!!!!!!!!!!..... this set-up from C/T is 2.5 from the Cat to the resonator, then at the Y-pipe/B-Pipe it turns into 2 inch to the muffler... THE MUFFLERS ARE 2 INCH

 

p.s.... Just so the PM's come to a halt.... The stock system on your CL is 2-1/4 until you come to that UGLY ass B-pipe that is rusting away.. Right at that pipe where the Y is-- the exhaust becomes 2 INCH...then each 2 inch piece that branches off goes into the 2 inch inlet of the mufflers..

FYI: The CL has 1 resonator and the TL has 2...

 

The blown Si's do best with 2 1/2" header collector with 2 1/2" all the way back, with no cat. In order to do it right, they need to re-work the cat back b-pipe because it is a smaller diameter where it hooks up to the cat, so they loose the cat, and weld on a 2 1/2" section to the start of the b-pipe. It's loud as fvck and pretty ricey, but is dyno proven to be the best on that set up.

I didn't know the TL-S had the extra resonator. That explains the confusion when we talked about it. It's up there where the CL-S resonator is, and it's just a short section of pipe that looks a bit larger. The larger resonator, like the CL-S has, is back further, just before the split into the mufflers. I wonder if the Comptech b-pipe will work for the TL-S also.

 

Good insight on the Si's.. that just goes to further prove that I need a Dyno to see where the cut-out will benefit the most HP gains..while still staying emissions legal

This is prolly going to be 1/4 of the cost of C/T and it will be tits....
i still recommend if you do this to get the T304 or T403 from the cat back....

But in your case: the cost break down
sim--5 bucks
cut-out & flange-200
custom Y-75
labor-100

Scaring the poop out of someone: PRICELESS

 

If your first pull is w/o the cat and mufflers, then add the cat, then bolt everything up and go thru the entire exhaust, you'll not only know the best location for the dump, you'll also get an idea what the difference will be with the cut out open and closed before you even get the cut-out put on,.....not to mention,...what it's going to sound like when someone rolls up on you as you UNLEASH THE BEAST!