Got them installed yesterday at a local shop for $85. Seemed pretty easy. They took off the passenger side wheel and had to loosen a motor mount to get to the crank pulley. The guy brought the stock crank in to me along with the UR and he handed them to me at the same time. I almost dropped the stock pulley. It weighs SOOO much more than the UR. I'd say about 8-10 lbs vs 2 lbs. I guess I need to work out more.

Anyway, I had them unhook the (+) terminal of the battery while they worked (not sure if that was necessary) so the car would be ready to accept new changes. The idle seems the same and I can't tell if I really feel more HP. The revs definitely do seem peppier. Also, when I SS between gears, I think the shifts actually feel smoother. HOw is that possible? The car used to jerk a little when downshifting from say 3rd to 2nd on an offramp. The "popping" doesn't feel as harsh now. Go figure...maybe my tranny healed itself a bit?

Overall, I like the revving feel of the pulleys. Other than that, the gains are almost imperceptable. They have to be doing SOMETHING though, cuz they cost nearly $400 w/ install. Oh yeah, they look nice.

 

Glad to hear you got them in...I cant wait to get a set of my own in there...

 

congrats....we're gonna have to do a mini seattle meet to check out the new toys...not to mention the unichip when you get them!

 

You'll see the results out on the track ...

the downshifts are smoother w/ SS b/c there is less weight on the crank, and there is therefore less engine braking (albeit not much less) but enough to detect less of an engine-braking experience per downshift.

You'd have to see a dyno curve to appreciate the results... but they're there, i promise.

 

i hope you meant (-) terminal.

sidemarker

 

Why? A circuit is a circuit right? Come on man, I'm a dentist, not an electrician.

 

Does anyone have a dyno of the UR pulleys?

 

That stock one is super heavy.

Congrats on the install.

 

who did the install?

 

My office is in Auburn, so I had a local place do it ---> Auburn City Imports, 1148 E Main St Auburn WA 98002 (253) 939-0437.

 

no kidding?! My family has been going to Chuck for several years! Chuck's a great guy. I'm surprised they did it. Have you had any other work done there?

 

Nope, that's the first time I've been there. He said he doesn't usually get many "quality" aftermarket installations. I guess he gets alot of civic guys adding coffee can exhausts and such.

 

After a few days I honestly believe the car is quicker. I actually think I can "feel" more pull though the top of first and second gear. The car seems to redline a little faster. I've hit the limiter a couple times in 2nd because I just didn't think I was close yet. Maybe its just wishful thinking but I'll guess around 8-10hp/8-10tq gains for an auto. The shifting is definitely smoother. No doubt about that!

 

congrats

 

You are correct that disconnecting either the (+) or the (-) terminal opens the circuit.

The main reason you want to disconnect the (-) on a car is that the car chassis is tied to ground. If you are removing the (+) first with the (-) still attached, and the wrench hits the chassis of the car, you have just shorted the battery (very bad)!

If you are removing the (-) and the wrench hits the chassis, it is no big deal because they are at the same potential. Once the (-) is removed, the (+) is floating relative to the chassis. So hitting the chassis with the wrench at this time while removing the (+) is OK.

It is primarily a safety issue.

 

IC, thx for the info.