Good idea Steve.. I'll be down the weekend of the 10th.. I better schedule something now. I'm just debating whether to schedule a tune also or just a dyno for now.. Or maybe I should dyno it first locally then prepare for a possible tune..

 

Steve or anyone know of any sites to find dyno tuners..?!? My zip is 16066.. I want to find something close..

 

Anyhone ever used this?

http://www.beltronics.com/fx.html

How are they etc? I just got the FX2, but have not done anything with it yet. Anyone have any experiances?

 

Yes i did have a chance to talk with him. He was very professional and did express some of his frustrations about the CL reporting such a variety of different A/F ratios. He's not convinced it's as simple as a west coast vs east coast thing and there's still a unknown factor or two that is apparently causing some stock cls with bolt on mods to report leaner numbers than others. I mentioned the intake air temp issue yesterday that very well could be the determining factor on the two east coast dynos. He did say that the best way to determine more accurate A/F reads is to have someone to actually take their car on a road test after their dyno with a portable lamda sensor/meter attached to the exhaust to get real road test levels and then compare them to the dyno numbers. Or at the minimal at least have temp gage or some thermocouple device measuring the intake air as best as possible during the dyno runs. He is still surprised that the two east coast cls stock ECUs are pulling so much fuel. He sampled cls, accords and a s2000 which all had A/F ratios around the 10.5 to 11 range.



IMO, air temp is what caused my lean numbers so i'm only having him changing my MAP just slightly richer. Half of point past 5300rpms to flatten out the curve and then move the whole level down a half point again. He is sending me a reflashed chip today. i'm going to keep my original chip for comparison. i don't really have a shop that can gather enough information to help eliminate all the variables but i will re-dyno the new MAP to make sure it's where i'm expecting it to be. i do have a battery operated thermocouple meter i might be able to rig-up to measure both shop air temp vs riding down the road temp just to establish the real delta.

Jack comes off being very honest and concern and willing to do what he thinks will be the right course of action but keep in mind, he is a businessman and his company is unichip not UNICEF!

TimR

 

Cody, that's great news that he's sending out a re-flashed ECU for you.. What are you supposed to do with the old one? Was any of this at a additional charge? I know Jack wants to get this squared away, I just hope he can do so with just seeing a dyno..

Unfortunatley I don't think any of us have the resources to do further road tests for him..

 

IMO, why not just use a scan tool or similar software and monitor the IAT value?? That would be much easier than hooking up a TC, etc. Plus, it gives a better idea of what the ECU sees and how it is reacting.

 

I was thinking about this and it didn't make complete sense. If they said that if Unichip wants the map they need to pay for the tune. However, you paid for the tune so the map is essentially your propoerty. As such you should be able to direct it's distrbution as see deem appropriate.

 

This is true Steve, I didn't look at it like that. I'm sure AAM would give it to me if I requested it. The problem is i'm still paying out of pocket to get the chip running where it should have been in the first place and I have yet to recieve any reimbursment for my tune. I'd be reluctant to give UniChip that map too. On one hand it would help the rest of the guys out, but on the other hand I'm actually paying out of my pocket to have another company do R&D for them; seems like it should be the other way around, no?

 

You know i will be the first to admit that i jumped on this GB solely because of the gains that were represented on matts dyno and the fact it was going to be a PNP. I really didn't account for all the other risk that are involved. I am disappointed with my gains but i should have realized there were some real risks involved. What sound too good usually is.



Jack has no problem reflashing the chips for us at no cost. But i'm sure this is a one time deal so before you have it done you want to have as accurate information as possible to make the adjustments. You might just wait till there are other more definitive results than what we have right now. I decided to have a new chip MAPed so I can try to compare it with the original MAP. When i send my back my original he'll credit me for it, but if you send him your original chip first you won't have to worry about tying up any funds.



I'm okay with the adjustments i asked him to make for me. I think that's all gain i'll ever get out of it anyhow.

 

You're right, that would be much more in line with what the ECU sees, i guess was thinking since i just needed the delta between them the TC would be accurate enough, but you're also right the TC won't be that easy to hook up.

 

First off the dyno we were originally given was from Brian and it showed 8-12 hp and ft-lbs; not the crazy 20+ whp @ redline we saw on Matt's dyno.

If you have your chip re-flashed by Jack @ UniChip all he is going to do is add fuel throughout the entire power band; a "global" change. Basically this will improve your overall A/F ratio but you will still will not get the maximum out of the chip unless your car is custom tuned. This can be said about ANY piggy-back computer system. No two cars are identical and atmospheric conditions will always be different as well. I can' think of any system out there for any car that will produce identical results on all cars (all things being equal). There are just too many variables in play. We were told 8-12, I got 5-12. There might be a little more to gain out of the chip by using an OBDII scaner to really take a close look at what is occuring inside the engine and ECU, but right now I'm 95% satisfied. I'm sure the global reflash will help your lean condition, but you car might actually lose power in certain points. Without UniChip having your specific car on hand to test the re-flash they will not be able to maximize the gains.

 

No, when Jack and i talked he made it clear he had enough data points that could pull fuel 0.5:1 throughout the entire power band from the original MAP and an additional 0.5:1 above 5300 RPMs. That's the MAP he's programming into the flash memory on the my Unichip. This way i feel comfortable i not running too lean and any gain loss will really be negligible. Doesn't matter anyhow, i'll be posting my new A/F chart afterwards to justify.

 

Good luck.

 

It's just the best i can come up with right now with the limited resources where i'm at. If i had a shop anywhere close to me that was a unichip shop, that's where i would have been tuesday.

thanks though

 

Time Slips:

 

www.dynojet.com

 

ok i got my chip installed today....

at first i didnt really feel any gains but like 30 minutes later i did feel a little more low end and that liite boost right at redline, drop off points through vtec are the same on shifts

all in all not a drastic change in the butt dyno but imma try to get a dyno in tommorw after work....

 

when i dyno tommorw should i dyno first w/ the chip in then hit the ecu power button off to turn the chip off and get the baseline run????

 

Looks like the temp may have played a part in the last run's higher trap speed. 99 mph is pretty good.

 

Yes the temp did help, although I have run in colder temps and run slower w/o the chip. I've run at 50 degrees before and only trapped 98 mph.

 

mr steve..

how did u go about the dyno...with or w/o chip first???

 

chip 1st, then take out the chip and do it with the stock ECU. You can't just turn off the ECU switch.

 

OK...spoke w/ Jack today and he thinks my check engine lite/misfires could be from a bad pin connection in the P+P harness. Sooo he's gonna send me a whole new KIT...uni-chip and P+P. The new chip will have the same map up til v-tech and then increase the fuel slightly after v-tech is engaged. So I can compare and see if the new harness makes a difference also. Then when i send back one whole kit I will be credited.

As of right now I'm very happy that Jack is working w/ me on fixing the problem. He was hesitant about getting my car custom tuned but he said if all else fails then that would be the only route for me to go. He send out the kit today so I will post as soon as I get it and we'll take it from there.


MrSteve...I'm glad that u are happy and sad that u had to pay out-of-0pocket. I hope that everything works out well for u. As for everyone else that is deciding on installing the chip or not...STOP BEING PARANOID!!!!Were dealing w/ a great company that WILL do what it takes for us to get the results that we should be getting. AND not everyone is experiencing problems. Just install the chip and go from there.

 

so far out of all the mods i have put on my car i feel this one on the butt dyno the least, i felt the ur pulley alot more..

i hope it feels better tommorw

 

Thats the exact opposite of how I felt. I didn't feel the pullies that much and feel the chip alot more.

 

The only reason you might feel the pullies more than the chip is that the pullies make the engine seem to spin more freely. Pullies and Unichip make about equal amounts of power, ~5-10 whp, that is hard to feel.

 

Just got finished with the installation. It was the easiest mod that I have ever done.

I started it up and let in run in the garage for a few minutes while watching the gauges. I saw no signs of anything different. I did not experience the low rpms and the almost stall conditions. It almost seemed normal. Also, no other lights lit up, which is always a good sign.

I was not able to get a good driving impression yet. I did go down my street, which is not long and a dead end, a few times. I WOTed a few times and still did not see any lights come on, except the VSA because the roads are wet.

I don't like to get my car wet but, for the board, I will take it out later and let y'all know what I think.

I also found that their is a dynojet about an hour away in Baton Rouge. I really don't want to spend the money on a dyo, but who knows. Does anyone know if there is a place to dyno in New Orleans?

Wish me luck and if I make it out today I will give y'all some feedback.

 

darrin,

I would wait until the ECU re-adjusts. When I first had the ECU installed I didn't really feel anything either ... but after it adjusted for a few days then I definitely felt an increase in the mid-range. The problem is just that I feel slower at WOT then I do when I'm pressing the gas halfway. If Ant gets his new Unichip and it seems to fix the problems then maybe I'll see if I can get another Unichip mailed to me and mail them back the one with the old flash on it.

 

This is what I am hopeing for. Hopefully UniChip can find a common problem, with an easy fix, and send it to all of us.

 

You can FEEL the pullies??

I wish I was still in college, this would have been an awsome case study, one that I'm actually be interested in.

IMO, what has happened in the past week with steve, and ant affect the FEEL for the chip more than anything else.

I'm glad things are turning around some what for the chip users. 5-10HP cross the rpm range will make a car quicker, but whether or not one can feel it, its all subjective.

 

To all all of you Butt-Dynos! if yours is so calibrated.... you should be hired by Dynojet!

The only way to measure any mod is either on a dyno or on the drag strip!....

Stop dreaming!

 

Devils advocate.. All you ever do is come in these threads and bash the UniChip.. Stop cluttering our threads..

We're all basically doing the A-CL community a favor and beta testing these chips and you are Not a help at all..

 

As I stated earlier, I did the install this morning.

I just got back for my first test drive, only about 8 miles. But, I did get a few burst to 100.

Impressions:

No CELs are anything else to cause concern.

Although and can't really say that I feel the gains, I can say that I don't believe that I am loosing any power.

Should I leave it installed or remove it and wait to see what UniChip has to say about the A/F ratios?

This is my secondary vehicle, so I don't drive it often. If the ECU needs a few miles to adjust, it may be some time until I get there.

 

But if it were some cheaply made headers...

 

 

Just to add some more information to this thread...

When I spoke with Mike from Altered Atmosphere, he said that while he was re-progamming the UniChip in my car he didn't see hardly any timing adjustments. He said the majority of the adjustments were through cutting fuel and leaning out the mixture. Although we didn't check "Map B," so there may have been additional changes there.

 

Interesting as I would have thought that is was mostly from timing.

Not to be on the negative side but if it were mostly due to MAP signal alterations then the VAFC and E-Manage could do the same if enough were taken. I would love to see the maps though as I suspect timing to be a critical part of it.

 

I'll see what I can do about getting the maps. Would I need a certain software to read it or would I be able to open it up in a text document?

 

Almost definitely we would need the software to view them.

 

Headers were supported by dynos to verify gains. I am not bahsing Unichip or its product.

I am fed up with alll that rubbish, I "feel" that gain or "It feels the same"!.. Please be scientific.

And to give credit to where it is due, I do appreciate all of you who are doing dynos and testing the chip on your CLS. You are doing the right thing.

As for the headers, I am happy with mine 2.5 years and not a single issue, even better thatn OEM iron crap!

Nashua.