Stone Headers: Please do NOT install before reading this post.
Are you sure that the O2 sensor is plugged in? Could you drop by the near Autozone and let them read for your the DTC code for FREE?
If the there is no physical damage to O2 sensor, then Acura might replace it under warranty.
Tranny has nothing to do with the headers.
If the there is no physical damage to O2 sensor, then Acura might replace it under warranty.
Tranny has nothing to do with the headers.
The DTC codes are P0130, P0131, P0132, P0133, P0135.
P0130 is the temporay DTC code.
P0131 is O2 sensor Low Voltage
P0132 is O2 sensor Hi Voltage
P0133 is O2 sensor Slow response
P0135 is O2 sensor heater system malfunction.
P0130 is the temporay DTC code.
P0131 is O2 sensor Low Voltage
P0132 is O2 sensor Hi Voltage
P0133 is O2 sensor Slow response
P0135 is O2 sensor heater system malfunction.
AgentDSS,
I guess you have 2 of the same, most probably you have 2 rears like Mr. .
Also, all what I needed was a side view of side-by-side headers in the first pictures to verify which header you have. But, from the last picture it seems you got 2 rears.
PM me so I can send you the missing header.
Nashua.
I guess you have 2 of the same, most probably you have 2 rears like Mr. .
Also, all what I needed was a side view of side-by-side headers in the first pictures to verify which header you have. But, from the last picture it seems you got 2 rears.
PM me so I can send you the missing header.
Nashua.
Finally got my car back and well it was worth tha wait . Hit vtec much quicker and also I noticed that most of the power was when the Rpms past 4 1/2 then it hit 7k in no time . I definitly love the headers . I still think I have a little leak so i gotta take it back to the shop tommrow morning to get it tightened up hopefully no big problems . Also after i got the car back i disconnected the battery and then reconnected it and cranked the car up and let it idle for 10 mins isn't there also some kind of fuse i can take out and put back in that might help....I dunno i think read something about this in another thread ?
Nash started this thread based on my experience with a shop doing my install,,, they torqued the head flange on first and then the down pipe was about .75 inch off,,, charged me $210 to put everything back to stock,,, but I got a install lesson because I watched and talked to the owner who was doing the install. Based on what he saw and not knowing comptech had a correct procedure I don't blame him for fearing major damage,,,
I spent a lot of time getting/ analyzing measurements from this board (Thanks all),, if the stock pipes are used for center line base point,, comptechs are about 0.25 inch off,, Stones are about 0.4 inch,,, I didn't get any OBXs... using the idea of slowly torquing the header flange down evenly using all five bolts we (me and a couple of aerospace ME's) determined that the head bolts won't shear or pull out,,
I put on the headers myself yesterday,, took my time and without a lift it was a major pain crawing around,,
I left all the nuts loose and then tighten the head flange first then the down pipe,, it was all done using comptech directions,, my only problem (minor) is the lower pipe hanger clamp won't fit,, the mesh is to tight right now and doesn't allow any side movement,, I need about 0.5 inch ,, after it loosens a bit I'll try again putting it on..
I couldn't figure out how to get a torque wrench on the back head flange,,, I had to use my calibrated wrist method,, total time in 95 degree garage was about nine hours,, dam I wish we have loosed the head bolts at the Acura shop,, that $210 would have been worth it,,
Performance,,, at first the idle was to low , ran ruf,,, turned the ac off and the cpu brought the idle back to spec,, idles good now
In the VTECH range the rpms do raise quicker to redline,,
But my personal goal was for increased MPGs on my 90 mile commute,,, I know borring but thats the story my wife believed so I'm sticking to it,,,,


sooo the Stones did fit,,, give them a good cleaning and file off the internal ridges,, follow the comptech directions and you should be good to go,,, NASH was very good to work with and stuck with me with phone calls and e mails,,, thanks NASH and good luck with your future business ventures,,,
I spent a lot of time getting/ analyzing measurements from this board (Thanks all),, if the stock pipes are used for center line base point,, comptechs are about 0.25 inch off,, Stones are about 0.4 inch,,, I didn't get any OBXs... using the idea of slowly torquing the header flange down evenly using all five bolts we (me and a couple of aerospace ME's) determined that the head bolts won't shear or pull out,,
I put on the headers myself yesterday,, took my time and without a lift it was a major pain crawing around,,
I left all the nuts loose and then tighten the head flange first then the down pipe,, it was all done using comptech directions,, my only problem (minor) is the lower pipe hanger clamp won't fit,, the mesh is to tight right now and doesn't allow any side movement,, I need about 0.5 inch ,, after it loosens a bit I'll try again putting it on..
I couldn't figure out how to get a torque wrench on the back head flange,,, I had to use my calibrated wrist method,, total time in 95 degree garage was about nine hours,, dam I wish we have loosed the head bolts at the Acura shop,, that $210 would have been worth it,,
Performance,,, at first the idle was to low , ran ruf,,, turned the ac off and the cpu brought the idle back to spec,, idles good now
In the VTECH range the rpms do raise quicker to redline,,
But my personal goal was for increased MPGs on my 90 mile commute,,, I know borring but thats the story my wife believed so I'm sticking to it,,,,



sooo the Stones did fit,,, give them a good cleaning and file off the internal ridges,, follow the comptech directions and you should be good to go,,, NASH was very good to work with and stuck with me with phone calls and e mails,,, thanks NASH and good luck with your future business ventures,,,
I guess I'm about the last person to get my headers from Swain. Sure looks like two the same. If somebody sends me an email address I'll send the jpegs if they can host them. Also, both looked to have bow in them, one a bit more than the other.
PPS - missing one bolt, got all the nuts.
PPS - missing one bolt, got all the nuts.
ModAddict, 360, Juker008,
Please could you confirm that you get back the correct front and rear headers from Swain Tech?
It seems that CO-CL-S got 2 rear headers.
Please comfirm.
Nashua.
Please could you confirm that you get back the correct front and rear headers from Swain Tech?
It seems that CO-CL-S got 2 rear headers.
Please comfirm.
Nashua.
Originally posted by CO-CL-S
I guess I'm about the last person to get my headers from Swain. Sure looks like two the same. If somebody sends me an email address I'll send the jpegs if they can host them. Also, both looked to have bow in them, one a bit more than the other.
PPS - missing one bolt, got all the nuts.
I guess I'm about the last person to get my headers from Swain. Sure looks like two the same. If somebody sends me an email address I'll send the jpegs if they can host them. Also, both looked to have bow in them, one a bit more than the other.
PPS - missing one bolt, got all the nuts.
Sry I still have not yet gotten my headers. Hopefully before the eng of this week.
Juker008
stone header install planned this weekend. read this entire thread several times as its diy project . i plan to install to assure fitment is good then..... if i can be patient enough, i'll remove ,ship to swain tech , have coating added and shipped back for reinstall. (or local coating service , if i can find one in milwaukee,wi area ) anyone have any thoughts on local coating service? will post results after first install.
AuCLSman, check the intrustion thread too!:
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...s+instructions
Good luck,
Nashua
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...s+instructions
Good luck,
Nashua
yep, i've printed out and w/helms +proper tools i should be ok. thanks for the instructions . also, i note, "a special tool may be required for removeal of o2 sensor" , what special tool? help,
frank
frank
Originally posted by AuCLSman
yep, i've printed out and w/helms +proper tools i should be ok. thanks for the instructions . also, i note, "a special tool may be required for removeal of o2 sensor" , what special tool? help,
frank
yep, i've printed out and w/helms +proper tools i should be ok. thanks for the instructions . also, i note, "a special tool may be required for removeal of o2 sensor" , what special tool? help,
frank
Nashua.
good luck,, take your time loosening the back header flange,, I had to reach thru the top to access them blindly, don't round off the nuts, keep the socket square and you'll be ok..
GUYS GUYS I JUST GOT MY HEADERS!!!
They are coated and it looks as though that I've got a front and back. I would 1st like to say that I am sorry. I was hoping to recieve two fronts so that I can trade with others that already have their headers coated.
They do look different. One header coupler, when placed on the table face down, would slant outward, while the other slants in ward.
The measurements that I took when the headers are bolted up to the downpipe were close. When I measured the front using a carpenter's ruler was 18.25" on the passenger's side of the front header and 18 1/8" on the driver's side front header.
So I need to know if u guys really think that I have the right set of front and back headers. I don't have a digi cam but maybe I can get one to borrow and see if I can snap a couple of photos and mail em to u Nash.
EM me if anyone has any info Juker008@adres.nl , PM is kinda full.
Juker008
They are coated and it looks as though that I've got a front and back. I would 1st like to say that I am sorry. I was hoping to recieve two fronts so that I can trade with others that already have their headers coated.
They do look different. One header coupler, when placed on the table face down, would slant outward, while the other slants in ward.
The measurements that I took when the headers are bolted up to the downpipe were close. When I measured the front using a carpenter's ruler was 18.25" on the passenger's side of the front header and 18 1/8" on the driver's side front header.
So I need to know if u guys really think that I have the right set of front and back headers. I don't have a digi cam but maybe I can get one to borrow and see if I can snap a couple of photos and mail em to u Nash.
EM me if anyone has any info Juker008@adres.nl , PM is kinda full.
Juker008
It's best that you got your order correctly. And if somebody is going to have to wait for correct parts, best it be me. I am planning to install my Zepher CAI with the Headers (that'll give you an idea how quickly I do things).. Give us a report on how your install goes.
Originally posted by CO-CL-S
It's best that you got your order correctly. And if somebody is going to have to wait for correct parts, best it be me. I am planning to install my Zepher CAI with the Headers (that'll give you an idea how quickly I do things).. Give us a report on how your install goes.
It's best that you got your order correctly. And if somebody is going to have to wait for correct parts, best it be me. I am planning to install my Zepher CAI with the Headers (that'll give you an idea how quickly I do things).. Give us a report on how your install goes.
CO-CL-S,
360 reported he recieved 2 of the same, from the low res pictures it seems he got 2 fronts. If so this is a good news. You will swap and I wil refund you the shipping cost if swain tech would not!.
I asked 360 to email hi-res to verify.
Nashua,
360 reported he recieved 2 of the same, from the low res pictures it seems he got 2 fronts. If so this is a good news. You will swap and I wil refund you the shipping cost if swain tech would not!.
I asked 360 to email hi-res to verify.
Nashua,
Just got back in town,....here's mine.
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15082
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15082
Not sure if this is what you're looking for,....
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15103
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15105
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15106
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15103
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15105
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=15106
At the top of the pipe on the header flange the sharp edge of the end of the pipe iis there, is that what you're talking about?
The pipe is larger then the head flange so there is a ledge behind the flange at the bottom, but the exhaust is going over it in the right direction,.... but the collector flange that attaches to the a-pipe is smaller then the pipes going in to it, creating a ledge there, as the exhaust goes thru the flange,....Should I try to tweek that a bit?
The pipe is larger then the head flange so there is a ledge behind the flange at the bottom, but the exhaust is going over it in the right direction,.... but the collector flange that attaches to the a-pipe is smaller then the pipes going in to it, creating a ledge there, as the exhaust goes thru the flange,....Should I try to tweek that a bit?
Originally posted by ModAddict
At the top of the pipe on the header flange the sharp edge of the end of the pipe iis there, is that what you're talking about?
The pipe is larger then the head flange so there is a ledge behind the flange at the bottom, but the exhaust is going over it in the right direction,.... but the collector flange that attaches to the a-pipe is smaller then the pipes going in to it, creating a ledge there, as the exhaust goes thru the flange,....Should I try to tweek that a bit?
At the top of the pipe on the header flange the sharp edge of the end of the pipe iis there, is that what you're talking about?
The pipe is larger then the head flange so there is a ledge behind the flange at the bottom, but the exhaust is going over it in the right direction,.... but the collector flange that attaches to the a-pipe is smaller then the pipes going in to it, creating a ledge there, as the exhaust goes thru the flange,....Should I try to tweek that a bit?
I am talking about deep inside the pipe like 2" inside.
Yes, you can tweek those HOWEVER.. DO NOT Touch the wielding points.
Nashua
Originally posted by fender4
Mine are on and running good,, my only problem is I find myself flooring it more often just to hear them
Mine are on and running good,, my only problem is I find myself flooring it more often just to hear them


