Stone Headers: Please do NOT install before reading this post.
Stone Headers: Please do NOT install before reading this post.
Stone Headers owner:
Please do NOT install before reading this post!
I got feedback that one stone header had an alignment issue with the rear downpipe and the rear header flange. The alignment may require the use of a torch to heat the rear pipe and some bending to get the flanges aligned
At this time we are investigating the cause of the problem and ways to correct this problem.
I am really sorry to hear this problem. I want to give you a heads up before you are halfway the installation.
I will be on top of this issue till we get a solution.
Thanks,
Nashua.
Note: I learned that anoother installation went Okay with no problem
Please do NOT install before reading this post!
I got feedback that one stone header had an alignment issue with the rear downpipe and the rear header flange. The alignment may require the use of a torch to heat the rear pipe and some bending to get the flanges aligned
At this time we are investigating the cause of the problem and ways to correct this problem.
I am really sorry to hear this problem. I want to give you a heads up before you are halfway the installation.
I will be on top of this issue till we get a solution.
Thanks,
Nashua.
Note: I learned that anoother installation went Okay with no problem
Okay, I learned that the second install went Okay too. All what has to be done is:
Do NOT tighten any bolt untill all bolts and nuts are attached. Then you can tighten one bolt at time starting with the engine block's nuts.
I strongly recommend the above.
Nashua.
Do NOT tighten any bolt untill all bolts and nuts are attached. Then you can tighten one bolt at time starting with the engine block's nuts.
I strongly recommend the above.
Nashua.
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
Do NOT tighten any bolt untill all bolts and nuts are attached. Then you can tighten one bolt at time starting with the engine block's nuts.
I strongly recommend the above.
[/B]
Do NOT tighten any bolt untill all bolts and nuts are attached. Then you can tighten one bolt at time starting with the engine block's nuts.
I strongly recommend the above.
[/B]
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So far, it could be only installer's error. It is fender4 who had problem installing today. I am waiting to hear from him more details and I will work with him on this isuue.
Nashua.
Nashua.
ok here is the problem
1st the shop is a small Acura tuner shop and they do headers.
sooo they know what they are doing,, also I worked with them all day to try to resolve this issue without putting back on all the stock stuff.. it didn't happen all back to stock now
The issue was / is the down pipe is one inch (250mm) offset from each other,, meaning there is no way they can bend to the correct alignment
There is no way we were not going to bolt the header to the head,, that type twisting force we felt would break the stud,,, so yes they were tighten to the head,, "common sense" means the pipes should be square and not needing what we determined excessive force,,
now off the car hand tighten your headers on your down pipe,,
measure the distance from each header flange front and back,,, mine is 19.5 inch and 18 inch. which is no way near square,,, BUT I need someone else to do this,,
again we worked all day,,, I used to be a auto mech,,, we do know what were doing,,
1st the shop is a small Acura tuner shop and they do headers.
sooo they know what they are doing,, also I worked with them all day to try to resolve this issue without putting back on all the stock stuff.. it didn't happen all back to stock now
The issue was / is the down pipe is one inch (250mm) offset from each other,, meaning there is no way they can bend to the correct alignment
There is no way we were not going to bolt the header to the head,, that type twisting force we felt would break the stud,,, so yes they were tighten to the head,, "common sense" means the pipes should be square and not needing what we determined excessive force,,
now off the car hand tighten your headers on your down pipe,,
measure the distance from each header flange front and back,,, mine is 19.5 inch and 18 inch. which is no way near square,,, BUT I need someone else to do this,,
again we worked all day,,, I used to be a auto mech,,, we do know what were doing,,
Originally posted by fender4
ok here is the problem
1st the shop is a small Acura tuner shop and they do headers.
sooo they know what they are doing,, also I worked with them all day to try to resolve this issue without putting back on all the stock stuff.. it didn't happen all back to stock now
The issue was / is the down pipe is one inch (250mm) offset from each other,, meaning there is no way they can bend to the correct alignment
There is no way we were not going to bolt the header to the head,, that type twisting force we felt would break the stud,,, so yes they were tighten to the head,, "common sense" means the pipes should be square and not needing what we determined excessive force,,
now off the car hand tighten your headers on your down pipe,,
measure the distance from each header flange front and back,,, mine is 19.5 inch and 18 inch. which is no way near square,,, BUT I need someone else to do this,,
again we worked all day,,, I used to be a auto mech,,, we do know what were doing,,
ok here is the problem
1st the shop is a small Acura tuner shop and they do headers.
sooo they know what they are doing,, also I worked with them all day to try to resolve this issue without putting back on all the stock stuff.. it didn't happen all back to stock now
The issue was / is the down pipe is one inch (250mm) offset from each other,, meaning there is no way they can bend to the correct alignment
There is no way we were not going to bolt the header to the head,, that type twisting force we felt would break the stud,,, so yes they were tighten to the head,, "common sense" means the pipes should be square and not needing what we determined excessive force,,
now off the car hand tighten your headers on your down pipe,,
measure the distance from each header flange front and back,,, mine is 19.5 inch and 18 inch. which is no way near square,,, BUT I need someone else to do this,,
again we worked all day,,, I used to be a auto mech,,, we do know what were doing,,
yes the front header has a slant towards the flange,, the rear tends to bend more 90 and down,, yes I have the correct two,,, we thought of that also
I recalled the owner of the shop and asked him about not having the flanges bolted tight,,, he said it still would have not fit do to the amount of distance away from the head.
I recalled the owner of the shop and asked him about not having the flanges bolted tight,,, he said it still would have not fit do to the amount of distance away from the head.
Re: Stone Headers: Please do NOT install before reading this post.
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
Note: I learned that anoother installation went Okay with no problem [/B]
Note: I learned that anoother installation went Okay with no problem [/B]
Originally posted by DaveTypeS02
im trying to do this measuring thing, what Exactly do i do?
im trying to do this measuring thing, what Exactly do i do?
hand tighten the headers to the down pipe
the two header flanges are offset but that's ok,, take a tape from the front of one flange and go 90 degrees (perpendicular) from the flange towards the other flange,, should meet about second pipe in
now go to the other end of the flange and measure across
call me I need this info see your PM
the two header flanges are offset but that's ok,, take a tape from the front of one flange and go 90 degrees (perpendicular) from the flange towards the other flange,, should meet about second pipe in
now go to the other end of the flange and measure across
call me I need this info see your PM
Re: Stone Headers: Please do NOT install before reading this post.
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
The alignment may require the use of a torch to heat the rear pipe and some bending to get the flanges aligned
The alignment may require the use of a torch to heat the rear pipe and some bending to get the flanges aligned
From this batch, not only 1 headers, but 2 have been installed so far with no problem. This is in addition to 2 headers we did back then on my CLS and Buldog's.
The way was done all bolts and nuts have been attached then tightened one by one.. there was no need for any further correction and no broken stud or anything like that.
Nashua.
The way was done all bolts and nuts have been attached then tightened one by one.. there was no need for any further correction and no broken stud or anything like that.
Nashua.
measure the offset flange to flange on the ones you have,,, if they are all 18.75 by 18.0 then you might be able to make up the dif by loose bolts,,, but there is no way mine fit. the .25 inch diff makes the off set to much for mine to make up,,, just a guess but I need some more numbers to compare to...
Holy Chr!st...I am sorry but I have to laugh. Good luck to you guys. At least with my "moo-ing" OBX headers there is a website to vent complaint to (not that they reply). There is no Stone header site. I respect Nashua and appreciate what he is doing for the forum but I do get some sort of perverse pleasure out of this....
Jeez...even the first prototype wasn't THAT bad.
At least once you get them on it won't sound as loud as my OBX.
Good luck.
Jeez...even the first prototype wasn't THAT bad.
At least once you get them on it won't sound as loud as my OBX.
Good luck.
Unlike my OBX's, the Comptech's went on like they were stock, the Acura tech said the fit was perfect.
They sound and feel wonderful, I do know how you guys are feeling though and after I had problems with my OBX's, I almost went for the Stone's. Glad I didn't.
Kudos to Nashua for trying to come up with a low cost alternative to the Comptech's.
I guess you get what you pay for and Comptech is no exception and their parts fit like stock, as they do alot of research with Honda.
After paying for them, even though steep, I feel they are worth every penny now.
Iwish you guys luck.
They sound and feel wonderful, I do know how you guys are feeling though and after I had problems with my OBX's, I almost went for the Stone's. Glad I didn't.
Kudos to Nashua for trying to come up with a low cost alternative to the Comptech's.
I guess you get what you pay for and Comptech is no exception and their parts fit like stock, as they do alot of research with Honda.
After paying for them, even though steep, I feel they are worth every penny now.
Iwish you guys luck.
NAshua, even though I am not getting the Stone headers, I want to give you a
for doing all this. You will probably get hate mail over this but it totally isn't your fault. Ah well...hopefully they won't have to fix it with a file like you had to!
measure the distances perpendicular from flange 4 face to flange 5 face in two diff. locations the widest possible,,, note there is a off set so the spots are not the same on 4 and 5,,, just go from near the top of one to near the top of the other,,,
NOTE Nash is working very hard with me to resolve this issue,, he started this thread for others to follow along,, I didn't say all of you will have issues,,, I just did,,, My install procedure could be wrong,,,, I torqued the headers to the heads first and then tried to align the down pipe,, the mechanic said this had to be done this way,,, who knows maybe they were wrong,,, even if they were loose we didn't feel it could make up the gap that was needed..
NOTE Nash is working very hard with me to resolve this issue,, he started this thread for others to follow along,, I didn't say all of you will have issues,,, I just did,,, My install procedure could be wrong,,,, I torqued the headers to the heads first and then tried to align the down pipe,, the mechanic said this had to be done this way,,, who knows maybe they were wrong,,, even if they were loose we didn't feel it could make up the gap that was needed..
Doh, I hope these issues get resolved soon ... I got my headers delivered last week (I think), but I haven't been home to check them out.
With measuring from flange 4 to flange 5, I don't understand how to measure the front vs. back? Which two locations should you use to measure from one to the other? Would like to check this out and see if my set are within spec before I go and bring them to the dealer to get them installed... Thanks!
With measuring from flange 4 to flange 5, I don't understand how to measure the front vs. back? Which two locations should you use to measure from one to the other? Would like to check this out and see if my set are within spec before I go and bring them to the dealer to get them installed... Thanks!
Originally posted by blackmagiCL_S
Holy Chr!st...I am sorry but I have to laugh. Good luck to you guys. At least with my "moo-ing" OBX headers there is a website to vent complaint to (not that they reply). There is no Stone header site. I respect Nashua and appreciate what he is doing for the forum but I do get some sort of perverse pleasure out of this....
Jeez...even the first prototype wasn't THAT bad.
At least once you get them on it won't sound as loud as my OBX.
Good luck.
Holy Chr!st...I am sorry but I have to laugh. Good luck to you guys. At least with my "moo-ing" OBX headers there is a website to vent complaint to (not that they reply). There is no Stone header site. I respect Nashua and appreciate what he is doing for the forum but I do get some sort of perverse pleasure out of this....
Jeez...even the first prototype wasn't THAT bad.
At least once you get them on it won't sound as loud as my OBX.
Good luck.
Ah well, once they are on you guys will have great gains so don't stress too much. I guess it just stinks that when you have them installed you have to warn the installer up front that it won't be easy.
Here are more pictiures of fender4 with dimensions:
Overall:

Overall With Dimensions:

First measurement:

First measurement Close up:

Second measurement:

Second measurement Close up:
Overall:

Overall With Dimensions:

First measurement:

First measurement Close up:

Second measurement:

Second measurement Close up:

