I know,... that was probably a dumb question at this point.

 

Awesome pics...

 

Ah, they look nice and shinny.. Wields look better too!

 

I know that they will eventually turn a golden color because of the heat. What can I do to make them stay shiney for a long time.....

 

Swain coating... but golden is okay with me!

 

we need more header inputs,, someone measure your Stones (no pun intended,, but that is pretty funny) ,, Comptech,,, OBX,, ??? ,,

 

I'm not at home right now, but my stone headers should be there right now... if I have a chance after I get home tonight (lots of unpacking to do heh), then I'll measure it and let you know. Hopefully mine will be within spec!

 

Itwould be nice to here from the two that were installed. Were they DIY or were they installed by a shop.

 

One was DIY, the second was a shop.

 

Jett Hot for nothing but shine and looks, nothing more.

Swain if u want true heat barrier coating, but alas no shine. It is a white coating.






Juker008

 

Hey Nash u think u could get those two guys to come here and post how it all went, especially the guy who went the DIY route.











Juker008

 

sounds like the same bullshit I went through w/ my OBX's. Let the ranting begin.

 

I took measurement of the stock headers exactly as it was done in the photos.

Here are the measurements:

Dim #1: Stock headers: 18.0”. SR Headers: 18 3/8”. Difference is + 0.375” or +9.525mm
Dim #2: Stock headers: 17.5”. SR Headers: 17 11/16”. Difference is +0.1875” or +4.7625mm

So, the maximum difference is no more that 9.5mm. it's possible to attach all bolts and nuts before tightening the block’s nuts, it would have worked for fender4.

So, it's a fact the flanges are NOT parallel. There is 0.5" difference.

 

very interesting,,,, could it be don't torque the header flange to the heads and then try to install the down pipe ??? I have ask the mech's this and their response was it had to be done this way or the header gaskets would leak ??? JENS I sent you a e mail,,, what is the correct install procedure.

others during install please finger tighten header flange and then see how far off the down pipe is,,, loosen and then start the down pipe bolts and see if the header flange will fit,,,

Like I said in the beginning I might have a incorrect install procedure,, hopefully I can now DIY and have a 200 dollar learning experience...

 

Just to note also,
that when installing the SR set on my CLS, we did it the same way fender4 did and we had minor alignment, like 2-3mm. It was not problem at all. If we did not tighened the headers to the block it would not be a problem at all. I have no leaks either.

 

Here's directions to install headers, as Nashau said, only start the nuts on the header studs,........ http://www.comptechusa.com/instructions/ins028.pdf

 

lol @ comptech instructions. :o

 

Comptech is recommending the opposite way fender4 did.

The only thing that does matter, do not tighten any bolt till all bolts/nuts are connected.

I also recommed to tighten a bit the front rear headers to the A-pipe before the block.

Then, torque all to spec.

 

#&$^$(&* *&#$^($^^#@^

 

Print the instructions, take it to your installer, that I assume said he knew what he were doing, and tell him to try it again, the right way, on his dime!! And don't settle for anything else. This is a common procedure with any headers or exhaust system installation!

And the gasket comment he gave you,.....

 

Fender4, do exactly what ModAddict said.

Good luck.

 

They make it sound so easy. did you guys remove anything to get to the rear header bolts?

 

I cant read this pdf file can someone copy and post it or PM it to me . thanks
I need them!

 

I planned this,,, also will use this thread as ref. sooooo they (Steve) will be reading this,,, blame fest is not the issue,,, getting them on my car is all I'm concerned with at this time,,,

Just wish I had those Comptech Install Instru.

 

dont you guys have Adobe Acrobat?
Its free!

 

no nothing is needed to be removed.

 

The Stone Headers went on fine on my '99TL last Friday....

Jay

 

Who did the install,, shop or DIY

 

Congrats, do you like them?

 

So with those w/ headers installed..how are you enjoying them?

Any OBX-like "moo" sounds? I hope not.

Also, what is the best way to clean out that black crap from the inside of the headers? It seems like a towel might be too hard to use to clean the insides. I'm thinking maybe a rag or something on a stick or something to get all the deep areas.

 

I wonder if people are wating to install, to see how this pans out?

 

I'm waiting for mine to come back from Swain Tech. IT'S KILLING ME!

 

AgentDSS, I wrapped a piece of a terry towel and tied it to long rope, threaded the rope in the each pipe and pull..

 

OK lets see if I've got this straight. The Stones do have an alignment problem, but the problem is small enough to still allow the headers to bolt on?

Now for those of u that have teh headers already on was it a DIY job or did u have the shop do it for u? OH and get those dynoes done already.






Juker008

 

Having read this I am curious about one thing, longevity.

If there is an alignment problem, even very slight, by torqueing them down to correct the alignment will tress the joints at locations not intended. This could lead to premature weld failures.

Just a thought as I haven't seen how far off this is.

 

Juker008

 

EXACTLY why my the shop doesn't want to install them on my car,,,, we need somebody to measure a set of comptech's header flanges,,, similiar proceedure as posted in this thread,,, Comptechs have some time on them and if they are the same dimensions then the loads would be close,,, sooooo if they haven't failed at the area right above weld joints,, we are ok,, remember the stress is probably relieved somewhat caused by thermo cycles,, also I don't know the vibe levels at that location,,, my structure engineers would need more data but it can be figured out using basic engineering,, any loads guys here want to play with this one problem ???

HERE"S The AUTO SHOPS comments,, note they have a valid concern,,, also note that getting a replacement set is NOT the issue by me..

I can not stress how much I disagree with your vendors assesment as to the proper installation of these headers on your car, even though Comptech's procedure instructs to leave the primary header loose, the interferance tension we would create when tightening the pipe so it will bend up about 1", and the twist load placed on the 2 flanges when they are forced to align the 1/4" twist will pre stress the exhaust studs, the primary head pipes, and the lead A pipe to the point of failure. I think if he were to realize how far off from center these were manufactured, he would agree that their is a problem.

Any reputable manufacturer would simply ship you another set, instead of waisting my and your time having us attempt to install these il-manufacturted parts again.

I didn't post this for the FLAMMING to begin,, he just wants to be sure he dosn't damage the heads on the car,,,

 

Fender4,

why it is not possible to pull-in the 2 pipes using a hammer, or attaching the 2 ends of the pipes with a "ratcheting strap" and tightening a bit more, there are multiple ways to correct this 9.7mm diffrence.

Nashua

 

Just a comment on the Comptech header installation, which I have done four times.

I installed both the front and rear headers and hand tightened the bolts half way and installed the A-Pipe. I aligned both flanges on the header and A-pipe before torqueing them down Then, when I went to tighten the header, it was flush and already perfectly seated as it should be. So torqueing the header nuts did not involving seating the header flange; the nuts touched only when snug to the head.

I don't recall them being that far out. Here are Shawn's pictures of the 6-Speed Comptech Headers:

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=75314

 

fender,

U shop is more concerned about the heads of the block than the headers? So because of the stresses impossed by the missalignment headers could warp the heads, or would it dammage the threads in the head? I'm just curious because I couldn't imagine the head being dammaged from the stress of a missaligned header. Then again heads are aluminium and the headers are SS. Hmmmm I would need more info about this.






Juker008