i can only imagine how much scrubbing and TLC you've been putting in, damn well better work perfect :-p

I haven't seen someone go this hardcore and post every move b4

I applaud your effort and persistence.... even I would be on the couch playing Forza 3 for a brake and then tackle it the next day.

props

 

and the shot definetly will help, not many people with nitrous, but alot more then a s/c

with out nitrous, a cl-p beat a type -s YEAH RIGHT

i think tom might be closer to you then civicdriver cause i thought i remember you being from or something in another post

 

RP is in NC, Im in VA. We're like 4 hours away IIRC.

 

Ill be in Charlotte on the 5th

 

then yeah you are closer, i was thinking of for some weird reason then. idk

 

I'm from Canada... anyone ever go to Cayuga dragstrip???

lets get a MASSIVE meet to start of next yr's season... cause it'd be nice to see some US folks from the forums up here in the frigid North LOL...

canada is SO stereotyped it's great. Look we even got our own little ICON on an AMERICAN forum. (Kinda fucked up, lol)

K i'm going back to my igloo.. wireless doesn't work well through the ft thick ice walls so i'm gonna have to log off. by guys

 

with out nitrous, a cl-p beat a type -s YEAH RIGHT

You must think since type s cars 35hp stock over a clp that a clp can't beat a cl-s ?

That's got to be the funniest thing I've heard in a while.You must not know too much about engines..Bolt on for bolt on ,No the cls will win.
My clp is going to be a little more than bolt on's if you can't tell.
I bet when my motor work is completed top end, botom end,My clp will crush a fully bolt on cls with out nos.Also I plan on spraying over 125 when said and done.All the bolt on's in the world won't even get you to that.
With nos it would be best not even to bother unless you got big turbo/turbo's or something making big boost. 5-6psi is not going to cut it.

 

I'm really wanting to dig in the motor man.
I could have my mannifold stuff and headers on.
I was going to wait to get some heads.And other goodies before trying to run it.
I'll see about getting it together thou.It would be close I plan on taken to the manifold and TB when the gaskets get here.
Shit,those might take till then to get.

 

i knew you were from
btw: OUR symbol is better cause it is called patriot

and we salute compared to looking like a dork

then why do you want type-s heads so badly then???
stock to stock not a chance especially not a 6 speed S

and if you did the same amount of work to a S motor it would still pull

and running nitrous against one without it is not too fair unless they had FI or something (and btw: i said WITHOUT)

btw: are ypu planning on a stoker motor or something

also nice ing with nos

 

I want type s heads for the fact they have a bigger intake valves.
I want to be able to run my car as long as possible before fully taring it apart so why grab a set of clp heads.
Ok If you did the same work to both they would be the same.Again I think you refering to bolt ons.
Bigger valves can be done,higher lift cams can be done,bigger manifold can be done,higher compression pistons can be done.I still dont see where you could build the cls any beter.
But you must know some how
.Please tell me what you can make beter on cls that you can't on clp.
nos is rice huh.
Dude you need to stick with car and driver mags and stick to car stats cause that's as far as your knowledge goes.I'm sure.
and don't ruin my thread by causing a piss'n match

 

he said that because nos is a brand name, your talking about nitrous

and this all started because he said yeah right in red text. Red text = sarcasm, he was messin with you

 

you calling nitrous nos is not the actually nitrous itself (especially if you don't mount it in your back seat)

and maybe i want to start a piss'n match with you and ruin your thread

 

Porting without a flow bench is like being lost in the deep woods, you might find to way out.

 

porting the heads I would agree.messing with the pockets+ chambers I agree. Manifold ,No

 

get the 09tl shawd manifold.

nitrous makes a huge diff. 125 is the most id shoot on a stock block. would consider pistons and rods then a tune.

sometime beginning of next year, i should be spraying 100shot wet, direct port. trying to get close to 400whp with only nitrous.

 

I'm definitly going after some rods and pistons I just cant find anyone that makes them for our engines. Any leads...
I was thinking of doing some stroking but,I dont want to add other factory rods and pistons if there not going to be any stronger.And I want to actually stay lower on the compression(right now anyway)

 

throw in a mdx crank and rods (forged=much stronger) and you can use your CL-P pistons to keep compression down so you can still spray. Low end plus nitrous for top end would be nuts.

 

I had a guy offering me a 03 3.5 pilot lower rotating assembly for just over $200 is it the same as the mdx

 

rods and pistons will need to be custom made. one offs. expensive also

 

Have you looked into any particular brands yet?
I'm thinking rods would be the most important to me.

 

Is wiseco a good company ?
They make cutom rods and pistons

 

crower rods is what im getting.

 

any prices yet ?

 

with a breif look they make j35 rods with out having them cusom made.

 

B93734b-6

acura j3.5 567 400 167 6.240 2.281 0.740 0.866 s112235-001 v id05 b93734b-6

acura j3.5 573 404 169 6.240 2.284 0.740 0.866 s112242-001 x ha02 b93734b-6

acura j3.5 560 397 163 6.240 2.284 0.740 0.866 s113107-001 g ff01 b93734b-6

acura j3.5 571 403 168 6.242 2.283 0.741 0.866 s129136-001 w ib06

 

witch one of those would be the best to keep the compression down.
(shorter stroke)

 

Have you looked at Carrillo?

http://www.carrilloind.com/

 

havent looked at carrillo. but i know many ppl that are running in the low 10's spraying 300 shot and its been holding up for year.


i have no pics. still need the call them so they can make them

 

i never said his cl was stock. he had pulley,intake,exhaust,no cat, headers, type-s manifold and actuator, light wheels, spacers etc etc.

i was simply stating that a bolted cl-p can beat a type-s.

as for me not knowing much about engines.. ill laugh that off

 

if u want lower compression then 3.5 pistons are the last thing you want.
they raise compression.

a thicker head gasket will lower compression as well as cl-p pistons.

but the lowest compression pistons that will bolt right in and work without other mods are the 1999 tl pistons.

 

I wasn't talking to you phee.
I was talking to this person: friesm2000

Also phee that was a part # list to rods, not pistons.
And I was seeing if anyone knew witch rod was the shortest out of the bunch.

 

umm maybe you should check to see what would be a better way to keep your compression down, let alone less detonation designs and such (also stroke is determined by the crankshaft and not the rods)

like i would stay keep the stock size rods (also longer ones be better for stroke to bore ratio)(beefier aftermarket ones though) and then a custom dish piston (with wrist pins closer to the top for longer rods [can't think of the term right now]) which helps to also reduce the stress on the rings, another way to help keep compression down is you can also enlarge the combustion chamber which should also unshroud the valves so they can flow better

 

phee

no i meant a cl-p ported up and modded vs a cls auto modded..
I guess I didn't make myself clear on that note

OBV anything can go faster with more $

I was referring to his cl-p done being ported then race a cl-s

ah w/e i'm tired

 

I agree most the stroke would come from the crank but,a longer/short rod does contribute aswell how short the piston is from the pin to the top.
A little more stroke would be fine but,I want compression not to exceed what I have stock.
Far as me changing combustion sizes.It's not going to happen.
I dont have axcess to a flow bench.and I dont want to just ruin a pair of heads.
Might polish the combustion chamber and do some blending but thats it.
Might enlarge the opening and match the runners and the headers but I wont be going much in changing the passage size.
I know the lower end takes good figuring with #'s or there will be problems.As well matching cams to the lower rotation assemblys clearances.
I have built a couple of sbc but,those parts are everywhere and people been using setups for so long you can just go buy everything and slap it together because someones already figued out what works.
I don't think there too many j guys thhat have coming up with the perfect package.
nobodys even making cams yet,I've never seen drop in pistons,and the first custom rods I seen were last night for a j35.
Trust me,I will be doing my home work before just loading in any lower end and cam shaft componets.

 

The J35A4 is 02-04 Oddy and 03-04 Pilot. So looks like that will work. But i don't know if the crank & rods are forged steel like the MDX. $200 is a great deal though. Throw your CL-P pistons in there and you have a nice setup

 

umm....
i dunno...

i think he should throw the RL forged pistons on there. it will raise compression but that just means he will have to spray a smaller amount for the same power

 

I'm really not wanting to raise the compression.
I just want to have a strong lower end with no piston to valve issues.
I want the rods and pistons to be able to handle a 150-175 shot all day long.
Anyone know a good combo for this,with out having to get custom parts made?

 

Pauter makes rods, theyre about $1200 for the set.

And you can use K series pistons. Its going to cost a pretty penny to get 6 of them though.

Youre looking at at least $2200 just in pistons and rods.

 

150-175, u gonna need custom pistons and rods if u want to retain the same compression ratio.


Can u use the 3.5 rods and everything else stock? Bc their are 3.5 forged rods made alread. But $1200 a set

 

Do you know for sure k series pistons will work ?
How would I judge the compression droping them in the
j32a1 block w/and without type s heads.
Do you know people that have them and actually know what compression ratios they have with them?