Wait, caliper on washer, then nut? The washer goes between the caliper and nut.

The washer for the bracket bolts go on the bolt head side as well.

So its:

bolt head, washer, knuckle, bracket

and

bracket, caliper, washer, nut

 

That's correct. I did that.

 

Dumb question, but are you sure both wheels are the same offset?

 

I have to look at it again. The calipers might be crunch down the the bracket to much on one side. (you know the little notch you tell people not to grind down.)

 

Yea, theyre supposed to be crunched town tight, that way they dont move around when you brake.

 

Yea I used and and air gun to crunch them down. And yes I'm sure I even tried the left wheel on the right side, the right side on the left side. Both front wheel fit with 8mm spacer on the driver side but won't cit on passenger side. Lol really weird

 

Yea, I have no idea whats going on with that.

Are you sure one of the wheels doesnt have a hub centric spacer pressed into it? On my wheels, its very difficult to remove the spacers from the wheel and they look like they are part of the wheel.

 

I'm sure I tried both the front wheels on both sides and got a caliper gauge and measure and it cleared by 1mm on the driver side with a 8mm spacer but need about 11mm to clear passenger

 

Take some measurements of the hat of the rotor and how much the calipers stick out and anything else in that area, something is definitely wrong. Compare both sides and make sure they're the same. Maybe try fitting the wheels on without the calipers and see how much room you have between the rotor and the spokes, compare both sides.

 

Either the parts or the install is wrong. Theres no way that, if installed correctly (and I mean no offense), one side would have more clearance then the other.

 

I understand. I notice that one caliper is push more in towards the lug nuts more then the other side and the part that hit is the inner part of the caliper where the curves are. Sorry really hard to explain. I think if I didn't tighten the caliper down so much and crunched it down so far. It would probably not hit

 

Taking pics of both sides and posting them may help us help you figure out the problem.

 

Ok. I took both sides apart and installed them over again, just for the hell of it. The same thing is still happening instead this time the big stud was rubbing my wheels, which was already grind down in the first place. So this time I cut about 4mm off the stud for more clearance.


AZNBOI2424 I will take pictures the next time i take both wheels off. I've taken the wheels off so many times this pass weekend.

 

hey fellas. I been having this problem ever since I installed this kit. The problem is when I brake the steering wheel shakes. I know if i have a warp rotor it shakes but everything is new. new pads new rotors except the calipers. The steering wheel shook the very first time I installed the system, so its not the bedding in part or me ruining the rotors and pads. DO you guys think its a caliper sticking?

 

If the caliper was sticking, its more then likely going to pull to one side. Did you ever find out what the issue was causing the offset problems?

 

no I didn't find the issue. So i was like just for get about it. It might be how i mounted the brackets. (because you can slide back or forward and tighten them down on the knuckle and it will make a differences.) Might be that the caliper is bigger on the passenger side. lol i have no clue.

 

Find the offset issue and Ill bet you find the shaking issue.

 

does any one know how many mm the spacer must be to fit 03 CL oem wheels and would i need longer threads? is it 13mm 15 or 20mm?
Is this the right rotor for the RL BBK? http://www.ajusa.com/StopTech-128420...or-aaef68.html

 

I am mechanically inclined, I know most of my stuff, not everything but most of it, and I can not find a difference in the installation. the installation is really straight forward, i couldn't have messed it up.

I might take both sides off tonight and swap the brackets around to see if the offset will be different. If it doesn't change I will swap the rotors. if those 2 item didn't swap the offset. then it might just be the calipers, but its hard to believe that one caliper might be bigger than the other

 

It has been three years since I did the CL so it may not be side specific, I just did my Z and the brackets are mirror images.

 

I wouldn't be driving the car around with those offset problems and shaking like that. Something is off and you don't want your brakes to be failing on you. If you need to, take it to a local shop to have them look at it. If what your saying is correct, something is seriously off.

Hard to say what size spacer you may need since I don't think anyone has used stock CL wheels with the BBK yet. My guess is probably a 20mm. You can try that first then go from there. If you have a local member with a 6 speed 3G TL, you can try to test fit.
That rotor is the correct size. The link you gave me is showing the right side, hence the R as the last letter. To get to the left side, you need the same part number as above except with L as the last letter.

 

I know BucJoe15 know what he doing

BucJoe15, we should meet up since i'm finally free on weekend . We can compare our BBK

 

I dont doubt that he knows what hes doing, but something most certainly isnt right and I wouldnt be driving a car if I thought there was an issue with the brake system.

 

does any one know the stock measurements of the 03cls 17x? I have some 18" rims with a 215/40/18 tire on it i wonder if they will clear the RL BBK?

 

We can bro. When? text me 404 966 6619

its not bad
I wouldn't be driving if knew it wasn't safe, but I'm pretty sure the brakes are not gonna give out on me, Its probably the cheap ass eBay rotors i bought lol. now that i though about it I might take a look at them rotors.

 

The stock wheels are 17x7 with +55 offset. What are the specs of the 18's? Can't tell if it will clear by just the tire size, we need to know the offset and if it has a lip or not. A picture of them showing the spokes will help too.

 

18x7.5 i dont know the off set i think its 42mm but they do have a small lip here is the pic.... http://www.dnjwheels.com/performance...856&parent=295

its the same rims that are on the car in my album or avatar. I all ready own these wheels and hopefully they will work with the RL BBK

 

Its highly unlikely that those have BBK clearance.

 

what will i need to make my stock or wheels fit or the after market ones ? Just 15mm hubcentric spacers thats it? or will need to change the original studs cuz they are too short or too long?

will a 215 tire fit on the stock 3rd gen acura tl wheel or will i b stretching the tire too much?

 

You'll need spacers to make either wheels fit. You don't need to change the original studs if you choose spacers with studs already attached to them.

 

A 215 will fit on the TL wheel, but its a bit of a stretch. Since it doesnt require a spacer, you could get away with 225s.

Who knows what spacer the stock wheels need, I dont think any one has run the RL calipers with them.

And its up to you to find out what size spacer those wheels you have would need. Anything more then 5mm will require longer studs. Anything over 10mm, and you can get spacers with the studs pressed in.

 

ok I feel a bit confused so do or do I not need to change the original studs to fit the stock wheels? can i just buy this spacer and it will work?
http://www.ajusa.com/Eibach-90615021...-6-a1bd39.html

 

I think theres confusion on both ends here. What are you trying to accomplish?

 

i just need to fit some wheels either my stock or the after market ones i have they both have new tires on them i dont want to just them to go to waste i paid alot of money for the tires $600 for the tires on the stock rims i go those in august 2011 and my after market rims have the befgood rich g force tires on them which were $200 each so i dont want it to be a waste of money

 

Ok, as I mentioned above, stock CL wheels will not clear without spacers. Since no one has run the stock CL wheels on these calipers (to my knowledge), I dont know how large of a spacer you will need. The same goes for your aftermarket rims.

If you need a spacer that is less then 5mm thick, you dont need to swap the studs. If you need a spacer larger then that, you will need to get longer studs. If you need a spacer that is 10mm or thicker, they make spacers with built in studs.

 

ok thanks Civicdrivr

Is there anything on the bad side to running a spacer?

 

You may introduce vibrations in the steering wheel if you dont use a hub centric spacer.

 

so as long as i have a hubcentric spacer there is no other down side or anything else to worry about like stress on the axles?

 

No, lowering your car puts stress on the axles. Just make sure you get hub centric spacers, that way you dont get vibrations plus it wont put the load solely on the lug studs.

 

ok thanks we will see how it goes lol and see how i canget these wheels to fit