Ok guys, I need your help quick !!!! There's a huge discount on synthetic oil today at a nearby shop. They sell Quaker State "Q advanced full synthetic" oil at a 50% discount. I'd buy it right away but they only have 10w30 grade, but we require 5w30 grade..... should I skip or buy anyway ??

Do you think using 10w30 oil is not a good idea for our car ? By the way, I'll be using the car only in summer time if it matters.

Thanks for your quick replies !!!



www.qpower.com ---- Unleash all your horses

 

5w20 not 5w30

 

My owner manual and oil cap say 5w30

 

I'd pass. I would only recommend 5w20 or 5w30.

 

Well, both of you are right. The 2001 recommends 5w30 and the 02/03's recommend 5w20.

 

You got the wrong manual then.

You own a 2nd generation CL right? Use 5w20!

The numbers refers to viscosity. The lower the number the less viscos the oil is. I dont think you will hurt the engine by using a higher viscosity oil but you would want to use the lower one becasue you will get better fuel economy. The lower viscosity will give the engine less resistance. Lower viscosity actually lubricates better but they break down faster. However, the new 5w20 lasts. Thats why they are generally more expensive. A cheap 5w20 is atleast $2.50.

Quakerstate is no Mobil 1 anyways

 

damn oil man

 

I guess my manual says 5w30 because it's a model .... I guess I'll skip the deal .... I always used conventionnal oil so switching to Quakerstate would be an improvement, even though it's no Mobil 1 .... thanks for your replies ...

 

5W-20, the recommended viscosity for my 2003 CLS (I'm not sure what is recommended for earlier CLS's), is thinner than 5W-30 or 10W-30. I worried in the beginning that Honda was going with the thinner viscosity recommendation just to post better economy figures and maybe giving something up in the area of engine longevity.

So I had my oil analyzed before each oil change to check for metal content and other wear factors. 5W-20 and 0W-20 Mobil-1 (Mobil-1 0W-20 is no longer on the market--it has been replaced with 5W-20 now) came through with flying colors with very low metal content, etc. at the recommended 7500 mile intervals. Mobil-1, being a full synthetic, performed better in analysis than dino oils. (I haven't tested other full synthetics or synthetic blends.)

In any case, the RECOMMENDED oil viscosity (5W-20) works magnificently so I decided I wouldn't mess with something as important as oil performance when it isn't broken. I've stayed with 0W-20 and 5W-20 Mobil-1 for about 52,500 of my odometer's 60,000 miles.

In the grand scheme of things, oil isn't expensive enough that I would want to try to save money by buying cheaper alternatives. I don't mind paying top dollar for oil I know I can rely on.

 

Since they all have the same engines, then my 01 could take the 5W-20 just fine, right? Are the gains in fuel economy that significant?

 

5w30 should be fine, thast what i use for the last 45K miles with 5k drain interval

 

My o/m manual clearly states 5w30.

My o/m also states you can use 10w30 in less extreme weather conditions but I always go with whats recommended.


<---- hates oil threads.

 

0w20, 5w20, 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30 are all fine...if you're under warranty, sticking with the recommended grade is a good idea.

The first # is an empirical number that refers to a specific viscosity limit the oil must meet at a certain temperature. For example, a "0" must be no more than XXXXX cp @ XX temperature in order to carry the "0" rating.

You can go wrong with any over the counter oil w/ a good filter, changed @ 5-7K intervals.

I'm off to a party....

 

So am I just waisting my money, cause I change my oil every 3,000 miles I use mobil 1 5w30 and I also use the mobil 1 oil filter... should I just change it every 5,000 or 7,000 from now on? And also is it ok if I switch to 5w20 now because I have used 5w30 for about 55,000 miles on my car...?

 

I think thats a personal call. If you're using the $6 Mobil 1, it will last up to 7500 miles. Theres a endurance Mobil 1 that advertises 15000 miles. Not sure if that comes in 5w20. I personally would change it somewhere between 3000-5000.

You shouldnt have a problem switching from 5w30 to 5w20 esp if you're switchin from synthetic to synthetic or non synthetic to non synthetic. It might be bad to switch from synthetic to non-synthetic or vice versa though. I've read that in the past, back some 20 yrs ago, if you mix the two, it will gel up. It said it shouldnt happen anymore with the new technologies but I'm doing more research

 

Amsoil is famous for their oil allowing a swap between it and "dino" oil with no repercussions.
I am not saying that it is true, just that they purport.

 

I got the following from "Improving Fuel Economy: Money In Your Pocket" by Roy Cox. Read all the way through, it has some good info:

Oil and Oil Filter Change

When you change your oil and filter, always be sure that the oil and filter meet the specifications listed in your owner's manual. The manufacturers go through a lot of engineering and testing to arrive at those recommendations, and the oils they specify provide the best combination of lubricates and economy for your engine. Using oil with a higher viscosity than recommended will increase the amout of power needed to turn the engine over, which will decrease fuel economy and may cause cold weather starting difficult as well. The common misconceptions that thicker oils provide better engine protection is simply not true. Laboratory testing has shown that thinner oils actually provide a better protective lubricating film, even in a well worn engine. Recommendations for both oil viscosity and American Petroleum Institute (API) service rating are stated in your owner's manual and required by law to be clearly shown on oil containers.

What About Synthetic Oils?

Synthetic oils come in two basic varieties, full synthetic and synthetic blends. Both contain mixtures of synthesized hydrocarbons, additves derived from photochemicals, and esters. There are several benefits obtained from using synthetic oils. They provide better ability to flow and pour in extreme cold conditions, while maintaining a thicker protective lubricating film to reduce friction and wear, even at high internal engine temperatures in hot weather. In addition, the additive packages in synthetic oils are more resistant to the effects of severe driving. Synthetic oils also have a beneficial effect on fuel economy. During laboratory testing, synthetic blends containing part conventional oil increased fuel economy 1.5 percent compared with standard reference oil, while full synthetic oils improved economy by 2.7 percent.

Most synthetic oil makers claim that their products can withstand 25,000 miles of "normal" driving between oil changes. However, you must be aware that auto makers do not agree to extend oil change intervals beyound their recommended intervals. You must perform and document your oil and filter changes, along with all other required maintenance, at the specified mileage intervals or your

 

Got cut off, here's all of it!

I got the following from "Improving Fuel Economy: Money In Your Pocket" by Roy Cox. Read all the way through, it has some good info:

Oil and Oil Filter Change

When you change your oil and filter, always be sure that the oil and filter meet the specifications listed in your owner's manual. The manufacturers go through a lot of engineering and testing to arrive at those recommendations, and the oils they specify provide the best combination of lubricants and economy for your engine. Using oil with a higher viscosity than recommended will increase the amout of power needed to turn the engine over, which will decrease fuel economy and may cause cold weather starting difficult as well. The common misconceptions that thicker oils provide better engine protection is simply not true. Laboratory testing has shown that thinner oils actually provide a better protective lubricating film, even in a well worn engine. Recommendations for both oil viscosity and American Petroleum Institute (API) service rating are stated in your owner's manual and required by law to be clearly shown on oil containers.

What About Synthetic Oils?

Synthetic oils come in two basic varieties, full synthetic and synthetic blends. Both contain mixtures of synthesized hydrocarbons, additves derived from photochemicals, and esters. There are several benefits obtained from using synthetic oils. They provide better ability to flow and pour in extreme cold conditions, while maintaining a thicker protective lubricating film to reduce friction and wear, even at high internal engine temperatures in hot weather. In addition, the additive packages in synthetic oils are more resistant to the effects of severe driving. Synthetic oils also have a beneficial effect on fuel economy. During laboratory testing, synthetic blends containing part conventional oil increased fuel economy 1.5 percent compared with standard reference oil, while full synthetic oils improved economy by 2.7 percent.

Most synthetic oil makers claim that their products can withstand 25,000 miles of "normal" driving between oil changes. However, you must be aware that auto makers do not agree to extend oil change intervals beyound their recommended intervals. You must perform and document your oil and filter changes, along with all other required maintenance, at the specified mileage intervals or your new car warranty may be void!

Myths About Synthetic Oils

Myth: Synthetic oils have only been on the market for a few years.
Truth: Synthetic oils were developed in the 1930s. Their technological advances over the years have made them truly superior lubricants.

Myth: Using synthetic oil will cause oil leaks.
Truth: There is no evidence that any gaskets or seals are damaged by them.

Myth: Synthetic oils are not compatible and will cause engine damage if they are mixed with each other, or with conventional oil.
Truth: Although some of the earliest (1930s) synthetics would turn to a jelly-like substance if they were mixed with conventional oil, there is very strong evidence that modern oils can be mixed without disastrous results. However, it is not recommended to mix brands of any fluids, because there is a risk of upsetting the carefully designed balance of the additive package. Why take the chance?

 

1) Some operating conditions do require a thicker oil film, and that may be dependent on viscosity. Chemical anti-scuff additives and other additives can improve film strength in thinner oils. Well worn engines may experience higher consumption with thinner oils, btw, possibly due to poorer ring seal.

2) You can switch grades at any time...

3) You can switch between synthetic and dino at any time.

4) Synthetic oils may expose leaks if seals/gaskets are in poor condition.

5) You'll never obtain optimal results if you constantly switch brands/chemistries. However, oils are certainly compatible with each other for top-off, but you won't obtain optimal results.

6) Amsoil is the only company claiming 25K drains, not that I care.

7) Synthetic oil may improve film strength but for most people, the difference is insignificant. The fuel economy improvement is also overblown...perhaps in controlled laboratory testing, but in the real-world, a 1-2% gain is unnoticeable for most people considering the many other variations from tank to tank that may change the fuel economy by that amount.

 

I drive in the city, NY, most of the day and in rush hr. I have used 10W40 syntec, no issues. Plus after hrs of driving in the summer I need teh resistance. I stay away from 5W30, which the manual says to use. My engine's just too old with 85K miles and a 1998 CL-P.

 

Since a lot of engine wear occurs on start up, I would use a more recommended oil, or closer to it. So, although I understand your logic about using a thicker oil, I'm not sure it's the best option. I used to drive in NYC and traffic all the time. Using 10W40 is unnecessary. Even with my Maxima with over 180K, I always stayed with a thinner oil and never had issues.

Read up about it a bit. You are putting more strain on your oil pump etc by using an oil that much thicker.

 

I have 102k on my oil burner GM and still use 5W30 religiously. Sacramento gets very hot in the summer and 5W30 will still work just fine. OEMs test the recommended oil grade under conditions that cannot be replicated by drivers before recommending a particular grade of oil. As a testimonial to the accuracy of their oil recommendation, we have members on our GM forum that have well over 200k miles on their vehicles running 5W30. The important part is to just keep the oil changed at least periodically and to keep the level at "full" in between oil changes.

 

Wow, 180K miles!! good running, and thanks for the advice. As a teen I used to work on older Gms and Hondas and was using teh same logic. I forget today's engines are more delicate, precise, and a pain in the a$$ to work on. You bought my F23A1 engine a few more happy miles.

 

Cool.

I'm up to about 80K on my I35. I plan on hitting about 150 to 180K before I get rid or in.

The only problem I had with the Maxima was a leaking crank seal and oil pan gasket. Both fixable for little cash.

Never burned oil til the very end.