Sounds like my 74 vega in which I jammed a 400 small block in. The door corners started to crack due to the torque of the engine. Stupid power, my brother ended up ditching it on a rainy night. The motor had a weiand tunnel ram looked f-n cool considering the size of the car........got in sh-t by the neighbore for leaving melted rubber down the side of his 280z.........the good old days........

 

sigh, yes those were the days . . . too bad insurance and gas prices make this such an expensive hobby . . . not to mention the outrageous prices Muscle cars command these days . . . . my little brother just sold his 66 Nova SS for $37k.

Ruf

 

I thought all HONDA's burn some oil due to there design characteristics, higher reving and pcv flow ect...

My 03 CL-S burns about a 1/2 litre every 3000 miles which is when I change my oil. A lot of temp variations up here, have to change oil more frequent because of moisture build up.

 

This is not making sense . . I even used to run a thin blend mix of 0W-30 & 5W-30 Mobil 1, but now I run NEO 5w-30, which they claim flows as easy as 5W-20 or better. So you would think I would have more blowby . . .

Ruf

 

You are talking about changing you viscosity from almost 0w-30 to 5w-30 which is changing the start up viscosity and the hot run viscosity, not much differance.

I was talking about the engine design, having more crankcase build up due to pcv and higher rpm ranges...... IE: if you are an aggressive driver you are going to build up more hot temp pressures longer causing more flow back to the manifold through the pcv system. If you ever pull off a manifold on your car you will see burnt oil residue on the inside......how does it get there, by the PCV system.

Blow by is not really common and is bad in any engine especially a four stroke that has proper oil control rings. Most cars today run tighter tolerances therefore needing a lower viscosity oil and any problems with major oil consumption is usually because buddy never changes his oil, which causes sludge build up and excessive crankcase pressure due to bad pcv flow or runs it out of oil burning up seals and rings ect.
We have a good engine design with exceptional reliability, just have to maintain it properly. My pickup burns more oil when I am towing something because I am working it harder, hotter and at a higher rpm. Same with all my vehicles.

my

 

With the Temp of the Turbo, I would suspect that conventional oil will be worse. I've always understood Synthetics hold up better in high temp situations.

 

[QUOTE=chevyjase]You are talking about changing you viscosity from almost 0w-30 to 5w-30 which is changing the start up viscosity and the hot run viscosity, not much differance.

I was talking about the engine design, having more crankcase build up due to pcv and higher rpm ranges...... IE: if you are an aggressive driver you are going to build up more hot temp pressures longer causing more flow back to the manifold through the pcv system. If you ever pull off a manifold on your car you will see burnt oil residue on the inside......how does it get there, by the PCV system.
QUOTE]

The reason for lowering the viscosity was to reduce the friction within the engine. An old racer trick to getting more net HP out of your engine . . . the lighter the oil the less load there is on all the reciprocating components. Of course you need to know your set up and make sure you're not running too thin. Another thing some will do is run 1 to 1.5 qrts low . . . again, the same objective. You don't think I ran a 14.5 with just and icebox did you?

And trust me, I run my car every day like I'm in a race, not 100% of the time mind you, but every open road or chance to run from a light I'm banging redline in 1st and 2nd . . . so I'm hard on it . . so when I do the thermo mod I should expect to see a lot of oil in there

Ruf

 

Same applies to 13.9s CL-S 6spd with just I/H

 

Hey Allmotor 2000, I need your opinion. As I stated in this post my car was leaking oil from the rear main. But since I have made some changes to the car the leak seems to have stopped. I don't see any oil leaking or smell it burning on my exhaust anymore, this is great!!! I have put in the thermal spacers and added alot of fuel to my E-Manage Map. So do you think that this leak could have been caused by excessive heat, lean conditions, super thin oil due to heat, etc.??? I

 

I don't think adding the thermal spacers and more fuel will stop an oil-leak. If the car was running lean (hence running hotter inside the combustion chamber)... it may have fried something, but nothing that repairs itself once you use thicker oil. So, it is most likely because you switched your oil viscosity.

 

Basically none

 

Did an oil change over the weekend and switched to Castrol Synthetic 10w40. Let's see what happens - I'll check oil every weekend.

 

Just checking in with 95k miles on an 01 CLP, I'm experiencing about a 1qt loss on Castrol GTX conventional 5w-30; I am very regular with oil changes.
This has been happening with the past 2-4 oil changes. No leaks detected, knock on wood.

Though I do have thermal temperature variations in my area quite frequently in the past two/three months. 50-60 degrees night time and possibly upper 90s even hundreds daytime.

Perhaps a long 300mi+ road trip can clear the internal gunk in the engine. I usually do 45mile commutes daily, mostly freeway.

 

i just throw in the 4.4l jug and it never moves

ALWAYS SYNTHETIC...

 

closing in on 90K here. do not use any oil. change every 5K on dino oil.

 

honda's burn oil only if you rip the shyt out of them all the time, and or you don't change oil like it's a religion.

Sometimes i do my oil b4 5000kms if I forget when I did it last.

I just stocked up on castrol syntech for the winter. cause it was 25$ for the 4.4L jugs

 

the oil level never changes in mine but in my friends 03 TL-S his goes thru like maybe 1/2 quart every 2 weeks....but shows no leaks or signs of burning oil. stumped the shit outa me.... we both run Mobile 1 5W-20 or 5W-30 and i run mine alot harder than his with more miles...... the world may never know

 

i would use synthetic oil instead of conv. oil if the car is turbo. It takes longer to break down a synthetic oil. I am SC for the past 40K with no signs of leaks