Octane ?
Octane ?
Quick question, what is the highest octane, performance wise, we could safely run in a type s...BTW got Hks Super Dragers for Christmas love them to death.. not to loud though has anybody choped out the resonator (the closest muffler looking thing to the rear), any gains?
i think anything that is considered premium in your area will do (91 i think is minimum considered premium most places).
i think any name brand premium grade fuel is sufficient and anything over that is overkill unless you're pinging, but in taht case there's probalby something wrong with the car.
i don't know why they have mid-grade availabe (89?)...who actually uses that? if my car didn't require premium, i'd get the lowest crap. if it did, i'd get premium as in the cl-s's case. but mid grade???
i think any name brand premium grade fuel is sufficient and anything over that is overkill unless you're pinging, but in taht case there's probalby something wrong with the car.
i don't know why they have mid-grade availabe (89?)...who actually uses that? if my car didn't require premium, i'd get the lowest crap. if it did, i'd get premium as in the cl-s's case. but mid grade???
I think during the Winter (in places where it gets cold) one can get away with 89... Im places where it gets really cold, maybe even 87. I think the cold temp of the fuel helps prevent it from pre-det...
I run 3 gals of 100 octane Low Lead with every tank of premium. I have been doing it for years on my 1998 3.0-P and now on my Cl-S.
There is a noticable difference if you are "in tune with " your car.
There is a noticable difference if you are "in tune with " your car.
There is no advantage at all in running a higher octane than 93 in our cars. All octane is is resistance to detonation (in this case premature detonation caused by a higher compression ratio) and at our current ratio there is no need to use a higher octane fuel. If we also had forced induction causing a much higher compression ratio than a higher octane might be called for.
BBSAcuraracing--it seems to me like you're just throwing money away.
BBSAcuraracing--it seems to me like you're just throwing money away.
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Dont knock it until you try it.
Try using a polymer octane boost. I dont have the slips from my Cl-s but I have used it for the last few years.
In my V-6 Buick the additive alone added .3-.4 secs on my 1.4mile time (11.40 1/4's)
I have also used these polymers in my snowblower and lawnmower and the increase in torque is greatlky increased evident in deep snow or heavy mulching.
Try using a polymer octane boost. I dont have the slips from my Cl-s but I have used it for the last few years.
In my V-6 Buick the additive alone added .3-.4 secs on my 1.4mile time (11.40 1/4's)
I have also used these polymers in my snowblower and lawnmower and the increase in torque is greatlky increased evident in deep snow or heavy mulching.
Originally posted by BBsAcuraRacing
Dont knock it until you try it.
Try using a polymer octane boost. I dont have the slips from my Cl-s but I have used it for the last few years.
In my V-6 Buick the additive alone added .3-.4 secs on my 1.4mile time (11.40 1/4's)
I have also used these polymers in my snowblower and lawnmower and the increase in torque is greatlky increased evident in deep snow or heavy mulching.
Dont knock it until you try it.
Try using a polymer octane boost. I dont have the slips from my Cl-s but I have used it for the last few years.
In my V-6 Buick the additive alone added .3-.4 secs on my 1.4mile time (11.40 1/4's)
I have also used these polymers in my snowblower and lawnmower and the increase in torque is greatlky increased evident in deep snow or heavy mulching.
The higher the octane, the slower it burn and has a lower BTU contant. If you are knocking on 93 grade, change stations or get your car checked out. If there is no knock and the associate knock retard, then higher grade fuels can hurt power and performance.
Don't go any higher than what would reasonably be needed.
Don't go any higher than what would reasonably be needed.
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