New Member: First time changing oil
New Member: First time changing oil
Hey guys,
Just registered over here. My gf has an 02 Cl Type-S with about 100k on the clock. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do all the work on my M3 myself.
Anyhow, it's time for her next oil change. Any DIY's out there to make sure I don't screw up her car? Also, she doesn't know if she's been running synthetic or non-synthetic. She only remembers that she got the "good kind" from wherever she got her oil changed.
Anyhow, I'll look through her manual to see what type of oil Acura reccomends. Any suggestions on whether I should go synthetic or non-synthetic? I assume the process is as simple as draining old oil (going to use a topsider pump), replace filter and O-ring, pour in new oil.
Anything I'm missing or any tips you could give me? Thanks!
JW
Just registered over here. My gf has an 02 Cl Type-S with about 100k on the clock. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do all the work on my M3 myself.
Anyhow, it's time for her next oil change. Any DIY's out there to make sure I don't screw up her car? Also, she doesn't know if she's been running synthetic or non-synthetic. She only remembers that she got the "good kind" from wherever she got her oil changed.
Anyhow, I'll look through her manual to see what type of oil Acura reccomends. Any suggestions on whether I should go synthetic or non-synthetic? I assume the process is as simple as draining old oil (going to use a topsider pump), replace filter and O-ring, pour in new oil.
Anything I'm missing or any tips you could give me? Thanks!
JW
You must be one of those who are used to working on german cars and not the other way around.
I go with 5-20 Royal Purple synthetic oil, as for oil filters PureOne filters are good as are Mobil 1 filters, some of the older Honda OEM filters that are not made by Honeywell are also really good. The O-rings are included on the filter itself and theres only one. So you don't have to worry about replacing them individually.
Do get another crush gasket for the drain plug so you don't take the chance of it leaking on you. Its similar to those german ones that are brass/copper color. Ours are just crush steel.
I go with 5-20 Royal Purple synthetic oil, as for oil filters PureOne filters are good as are Mobil 1 filters, some of the older Honda OEM filters that are not made by Honeywell are also really good. The O-rings are included on the filter itself and theres only one. So you don't have to worry about replacing them individually.
Do get another crush gasket for the drain plug so you don't take the chance of it leaking on you. Its similar to those german ones that are brass/copper color. Ours are just crush steel.
I have this noob question regarding synthetic oil.
If you go with synthetic oil, do you fill the whole engine with synthetic oil meaning adding 4 to 5 bottles of it.
or
Do you just add 1 bottle of synthetic oil and the rest with reg. engine oil?
If you go with synthetic oil, do you fill the whole engine with synthetic oil meaning adding 4 to 5 bottles of it.
or
Do you just add 1 bottle of synthetic oil and the rest with reg. engine oil?
Originally Posted by ironsurfer129
I have this noob question regarding synthetic oil.
If you go with synthetic oil, do you fill the whole engine with synthetic oil meaning adding 4 to 5 bottles of it.
or
Do you just add 1 bottle of synthetic oil and the rest with reg. engine oil?
If you go with synthetic oil, do you fill the whole engine with synthetic oil meaning adding 4 to 5 bottles of it.
or
Do you just add 1 bottle of synthetic oil and the rest with reg. engine oil?
Originally Posted by PDXCL01FORME
always use the same oil, dont mix synthetic and non synthetic if you can avoid it. I run 4 to five quarts of mobile one synthetic and change it out every five to six thousand miles.
Originally Posted by JM3
Hey guys,
Just registered over here. My gf has an 02 Cl Type-S with about 100k on the clock. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do all the work on my M3 myself.
Anyhow, it's time for her next oil change. Any DIY's out there to make sure I don't screw up her car? Also, she doesn't know if she's been running synthetic or non-synthetic. She only remembers that she got the "good kind" from wherever she got her oil changed.
Anyhow, I'll look through her manual to see what type of oil Acura reccomends. Any suggestions on whether I should go synthetic or non-synthetic? I assume the process is as simple as draining old oil (going to use a topsider pump), replace filter and O-ring, pour in new oil.
Anything I'm missing or any tips you could give me? Thanks!
JW
Just registered over here. My gf has an 02 Cl Type-S with about 100k on the clock. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do all the work on my M3 myself.
Anyhow, it's time for her next oil change. Any DIY's out there to make sure I don't screw up her car? Also, she doesn't know if she's been running synthetic or non-synthetic. She only remembers that she got the "good kind" from wherever she got her oil changed.
Anyhow, I'll look through her manual to see what type of oil Acura reccomends. Any suggestions on whether I should go synthetic or non-synthetic? I assume the process is as simple as draining old oil (going to use a topsider pump), replace filter and O-ring, pour in new oil.
Anything I'm missing or any tips you could give me? Thanks!
JW
i don't see how working on my own car has anything to do with working on a car i am completely unfamiliar with. Just because I'm very familiar with my M3 doesn't mean I know all there is to know about a CL. Why is the "M3" in quotations by the way? Trust me when I say I've got one and I've done a bunch of work on it.
do you have any proof that using a topsider is "not as good for my engine" than going underneath the car and doing it from below?
do you have any proof that using a topsider is "not as good for my engine" than going underneath the car and doing it from below?
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[QUOTE=Accord_V6_400m]You must be one of those who are used to working on german cars and not the other way around.
[QUOTE]
Exactly. While I could change the oil on my M3 in under 20 min flat, I'm not familiar with Japanese Imports. I pretty much grew up working on my M3 and nothing else.
[QUOTE]
Exactly. While I could change the oil on my M3 in under 20 min flat, I'm not familiar with Japanese Imports. I pretty much grew up working on my M3 and nothing else.
Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
You must be one of those who are used to working on german cars and not the other way around.
Originally Posted by JM3
Exactly. While I could change the oil on my M3 in under 20 min flat, I'm not familiar with Japanese Imports. I pretty much grew up working on my M3 and nothing else.
with 3-4 O-rings. All those torx screws and bolts 
Post some pics of your M3 and the mods you've done
a cardomain page would suffice.
Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
I know the feeling, I felt the same way when I started working on Mercedes cars. The whole filter on a stick concept
with 3-4 O-rings. All those torx screws and bolts 
Post some pics of your M3 and the mods you've done
a cardomain page would suffice.
with 3-4 O-rings. All those torx screws and bolts 
Post some pics of your M3 and the mods you've done
a cardomain page would suffice.





the mods are endless:
-UUC Sway Bars 2.0 f/r
-ACS Type 3 Racing Replicas 18x8.5 235f/245r
-Stromung Catback Exhaust
-VFE Centifugal Supercharger ~6psi using a Vortech V2 unit
-ZKW Headlights and ApexCone HID's 6000k
-UUC Short Shifter
-10% tint all around
-Recaro SRD's mounted on WEDGE Engineering Brackets
-BMW Traffic Pro (OEM NAV SYSTEM)
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. All Mods were installed by your's truly
Maybe I've been spoiled, but on my M3 its nice to have the oil filter right in front of the intake mainfold under the hood. Whats this under the car nonsense?!
Anyhow, back on topic, I took a peek under my gf's car and saw the filter.
-UUC Sway Bars 2.0 f/r
-ACS Type 3 Racing Replicas 18x8.5 235f/245r
-Stromung Catback Exhaust
-VFE Centifugal Supercharger ~6psi using a Vortech V2 unit
-ZKW Headlights and ApexCone HID's 6000k
-UUC Short Shifter
-10% tint all around
-Recaro SRD's mounted on WEDGE Engineering Brackets
-BMW Traffic Pro (OEM NAV SYSTEM)
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. All Mods were installed by your's truly

Maybe I've been spoiled, but on my M3 its nice to have the oil filter right in front of the intake mainfold under the hood. Whats this under the car nonsense?!
Anyhow, back on topic, I took a peek under my gf's car and saw the filter.
Originally Posted by JM3
the mods are endless:
-UUC Sway Bars 2.0 f/r
-ACS Type 3 Racing Replicas 18x8.5 235f/245r
-Stromung Catback Exhaust
-VFE Centifugal Supercharger ~6psi using a Vortech V2 unit
-ZKW Headlights and ApexCone HID's 6000k
-UUC Short Shifter
-10% tint all around
-Recaro SRD's mounted on WEDGE Engineering Brackets
-BMW Traffic Pro (OEM NAV SYSTEM)
-UUC Sway Bars 2.0 f/r
-ACS Type 3 Racing Replicas 18x8.5 235f/245r
-Stromung Catback Exhaust
-VFE Centifugal Supercharger ~6psi using a Vortech V2 unit
-ZKW Headlights and ApexCone HID's 6000k
-UUC Short Shifter
-10% tint all around
-Recaro SRD's mounted on WEDGE Engineering Brackets
-BMW Traffic Pro (OEM NAV SYSTEM)
Nice M3, changing the oil on the CL/TL is very simple.
1. Unbolt drain plug, drain for about 15-20 to get every single drop out.
2. Remove oil filter, very convenient location I think, make sure old gasket comes off with the old oil filter and isnt sticking to the motor.
3. Lube new oil filter gasket with whatever oil your using and put it back on filter and install, hand tight is all you need, don't use any tools to tighten the oil filter. Just tighten until you can't tighten anymore with your hand.
4. Pour 4qts of whatever oil your using, start car, let it idle for 30sec or so.
5. Turn off the car, check the oil with the dipstick and add as necessary.
That's about it, looks like some members might be butthurt seeing a M3 owner on the forums lol.
edit: forgot to mention when you first start the car with the new oil/filter run out and double check the drain bolt and oil filter aren't leaking.
1. Unbolt drain plug, drain for about 15-20 to get every single drop out.
2. Remove oil filter, very convenient location I think, make sure old gasket comes off with the old oil filter and isnt sticking to the motor.
3. Lube new oil filter gasket with whatever oil your using and put it back on filter and install, hand tight is all you need, don't use any tools to tighten the oil filter. Just tighten until you can't tighten anymore with your hand.
4. Pour 4qts of whatever oil your using, start car, let it idle for 30sec or so.
5. Turn off the car, check the oil with the dipstick and add as necessary.
That's about it, looks like some members might be butthurt seeing a M3 owner on the forums lol.
edit: forgot to mention when you first start the car with the new oil/filter run out and double check the drain bolt and oil filter aren't leaking.
NICE e36.. very nice... i would love a alpine white e36 m3...
my aunt is looking at purchasing a 335 right now in alpine white... !!!!
anyways ever since working with my dad, ive probably changed over 20 CL's oils in the passed week and its probabbly easier then any other acura.. the Oil filter is literally right there...... the RSX ont he other hand is a bitch.
my aunt is looking at purchasing a 335 right now in alpine white... !!!!

anyways ever since working with my dad, ive probably changed over 20 CL's oils in the passed week and its probabbly easier then any other acura.. the Oil filter is literally right there...... the RSX ont he other hand is a bitch.
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