my 3.5L journey begins...
03-28-2006, 08:53 AM
#4
318whp/289wtq @ 6psi
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What pistons are you using? The Cl-S pistons? I have a set of CL-S and a set of MDX pistons if you want as I don't need them for what I'm getting done to my car now.
Good luck with the swap.
Good luck with the swap.
03-28-2006, 09:57 AM
#7
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I cant find the site now, but there is a company that does the 3.5L RL stroker kits for the J32.
The numbers are up there; 350hp and 320 ft-tq I believe. I would love to see some actual dyno numbers on this kit and most importantly, a timeline of proven realibility.
Anybody seen anything in this regard?
What are you planning on running for car managment?
The numbers are up there; 350hp and 320 ft-tq I believe. I would love to see some actual dyno numbers on this kit and most importantly, a timeline of proven realibility.
Anybody seen anything in this regard?
What are you planning on running for car managment?
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03-28-2006, 11:51 AM
#9
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Yes its them. If you get the parts, a good performance shop can do it.
From our FAQ:
The 3.5L upgrade is done by Rick Case Acura. The really short version is it is a converted 3.5L MDX engine put into a CL.
More specific details:
Roughly 315 hp and 254 ft lbs of torque
0-60 in 5.7 seconds, 1/4 mile in 14.0 sec.
Note runs done at Moroso Motorsports Park in 90 degree and 90% humidity.
Parts:
From MDX: Crank, bearing, pistons, rods, tranny housing 1->2, intake plenum spacer
Comptech Headers, springs, sways
AEM 2.5" CAI
Brushed aluminum interior
Apex VTEC Controller
Head work is done by the Propulsion Laboratory in conjunction with John Brown Racing of S. Florida.
Compression ratio is 10.85:1
Takes 8 work days to produce/convert one powertrain.
Cost: $4999 for 315 HP, and $6999 for a 335 HP Gen II set-up.
One acura-cl.com got the conversion, ran great with it, and had no transmission problems at all
From our FAQ:
The 3.5L upgrade is done by Rick Case Acura. The really short version is it is a converted 3.5L MDX engine put into a CL.
More specific details:
Roughly 315 hp and 254 ft lbs of torque
0-60 in 5.7 seconds, 1/4 mile in 14.0 sec.
Note runs done at Moroso Motorsports Park in 90 degree and 90% humidity.
Parts:
From MDX: Crank, bearing, pistons, rods, tranny housing 1->2, intake plenum spacer
Comptech Headers, springs, sways
AEM 2.5" CAI
Brushed aluminum interior
Apex VTEC Controller
Head work is done by the Propulsion Laboratory in conjunction with John Brown Racing of S. Florida.
Compression ratio is 10.85:1
Takes 8 work days to produce/convert one powertrain.
Cost: $4999 for 315 HP, and $6999 for a 335 HP Gen II set-up.
One acura-cl.com got the conversion, ran great with it, and had no transmission problems at all
03-28-2006, 11:58 AM
#11
engine mangement... my stock ECU.
RL cams will be going into the motor. PnP Intake Manifolds, removed VSA, and all the mods you see in my sig.
i haven't seen a dyno with the RL cams, i may be the first n/a with it.
i dynoed at 234 whp with a broken actuator, with 25% drivetrain loss, i'd say that puts me at about 315 crank at the moment. but as i keep saying, i'm thinking torque will be my friend. torque, in a honda motor?
RL cams will be going into the motor. PnP Intake Manifolds, removed VSA, and all the mods you see in my sig.
i haven't seen a dyno with the RL cams, i may be the first n/a with it.
i dynoed at 234 whp with a broken actuator, with 25% drivetrain loss, i'd say that puts me at about 315 crank at the moment. but as i keep saying, i'm thinking torque will be my friend. torque, in a honda motor?
03-28-2006, 01:16 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
engine mangement... my stock ECU.
RL cams will be going into the motor. PnP Intake Manifolds, removed VSA, and all the mods you see in my sig.
i haven't seen a dyno with the RL cams, i may be the first n/a with it.
i dynoed at 234 whp with a broken actuator, with 25% drivetrain loss, i'd say that puts me at about 315 crank at the moment. but as i keep saying, i'm thinking torque will be my friend. torque, in a honda motor?
RL cams will be going into the motor. PnP Intake Manifolds, removed VSA, and all the mods you see in my sig.
i haven't seen a dyno with the RL cams, i may be the first n/a with it.
i dynoed at 234 whp with a broken actuator, with 25% drivetrain loss, i'd say that puts me at about 315 crank at the moment. but as i keep saying, i'm thinking torque will be my friend. torque, in a honda motor?
I dont see your sig. My sig is on too but nada, and some ones I do see.
03-28-2006, 02:19 PM
#14
standard pistons. the overbore is essentially if someonething happens to the cylinder walls. i felt it unnecessary to have my block bored, when standard should drop right in.
the CL's ECU will do just fine. click my name and click view profile to view sigs.
the CL's ECU will do just fine. click my name and click view profile to view sigs.
03-28-2006, 02:33 PM
#15
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How many miles on your CL? If its anything over 80k, it might be worth to have the block freshly honed and go with OS pistons. .25 shouldnt be a full bore.
Since your spending a decent amount of money on this full build, I would consider this to be a good preventitve measure. Cost vs possible damage.
The shop thats doing it might cut you a break on the labor for striping the block down, preping, honing, etc.
I have seen wall damage from builds on motors over 100k without a fresh bore or even hone.
I dont believe so, but can you confirm or deny if the CL-S has FRM cylinder walls?
Since your spending a decent amount of money on this full build, I would consider this to be a good preventitve measure. Cost vs possible damage.
The shop thats doing it might cut you a break on the labor for striping the block down, preping, honing, etc.
I have seen wall damage from builds on motors over 100k without a fresh bore or even hone.
I dont believe so, but can you confirm or deny if the CL-S has FRM cylinder walls?
03-28-2006, 03:18 PM
#20
i got a good deal on the odyssey parts, and their essentially the same exact parts as the MDX except the MDX parts have a higher price tag bc of the acura name to it. IMO, go with oddyssey stuff, its cheaper and it's the same.
also the odyssey and early MDX rods are forged versus new mdx/rl rods which are a slightly different materials.
also the odyssey and early MDX rods are forged versus new mdx/rl rods which are a slightly different materials.
03-28-2006, 03:26 PM
#22
Originally Posted by typeR
reliability and dyno numbers with 3 years of abuse
steve, thanks for the help. i can't wait to see what the cams will do. i plan to keep everyone posted as to any problems that arise.the crank is going to the machine shop, hopefully it's good to go. and the RL piston rings are on backorder, doh. gotta find 2 ringsets.
03-28-2006, 07:05 PM
#24
Senior Moderator
Awesome! G'luck with the swap...keep us updated!
03-28-2006, 07:37 PM
#25
Never had a clean run
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Originally Posted by ThinJim
Remember though, The RL block is equipped with oil squirters to keep the piston cooler which aids in reducing detonation, That's one reason it works so well in the RL. Good luck with that build!
Damn, RL pistons were on back order when i tried to get them too. The company I ordered them from ended up buying them off another warehouse since the wait was so long.
03-28-2006, 08:02 PM
#27
i ordered from oemacuraparts.com, lance has been very helpful.
about the oil squirters, i honestly dont think its going to be a major issue for an n/a build. but i may talk to the shop about having light ports done to the oil pathways.
about the oil squirters, i honestly dont think its going to be a major issue for an n/a build. but i may talk to the shop about having light ports done to the oil pathways.
03-30-2006, 06:19 PM
#34
i'm north shore nassua. but build is being done in queens. hit me up some time, we can check out the cars.
i'm sure most of you know this, but maybe some don't. this build will bump compression, i'm not 100% sure, but it will be about 11:1. this is a bit high, but i still think you could do a light boost on it. for me, i am going strictly n/a, so this is perfect. thanks to NY and standard 93 octane =]
i'm sure most of you know this, but maybe some don't. this build will bump compression, i'm not 100% sure, but it will be about 11:1. this is a bit high, but i still think you could do a light boost on it. for me, i am going strictly n/a, so this is perfect. thanks to NY and standard 93 octane =]
03-30-2006, 08:34 PM
#36
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by CleanCL
i'm north shore nassua. but build is being done in queens. hit me up some time, we can check out the cars.
i'm sure most of you know this, but maybe some don't. this build will bump compression, i'm not 100% sure, but it will be about 11:1. this is a bit high, but i still think you could do a light boost on it. for me, i am going strictly n/a, so this is perfect. thanks to NY and standard 93 octane =]
i'm sure most of you know this, but maybe some don't. this build will bump compression, i'm not 100% sure, but it will be about 11:1. this is a bit high, but i still think you could do a light boost on it. for me, i am going strictly n/a, so this is perfect. thanks to NY and standard 93 octane =]
