jproy

Guys,
For those of you who have ever modified a fuel delivery system, I have a random question for you that I am sure you have come across and I want your input on what I am doing. I searched to no avail. I have decided to go ahead with the HBP on the blower and a professional tune from Jotech in Dallas with the E-manage after I replace motor mounts, change a few seals, timing belt and related parts, valve adjust/check, as well as a general tune up since I am at 99,200 miles on the clock. I have no extra gauges on the car because I am very cheap about things that don't make the car go faster or safer. I know that statement is easy to attack, i.e. blown motor etc., etc.. I know I need some gauges and I refuse to spend $550 more on electric 2-1/16 Autometer Ultralight II fuel pressure and wideband O2 sensor/gauge so I can read them in the car and I already have a matching Autometer Ultralight II top-of-the-line electric boost gauge model 4377, about $250, which was given to me with the supercharger new in box. Basically, my theory is like this, fuel pressure is of utmost importance as it is the back bone of maintaining proper fuel mixture under boost so I don't go lean but I don't think I need to have the $250 FP unit so I can read it in the car because if I go with just one expensive electric gauge in the car to minimize cost, that being the wideband 02, I will know right away and instantly if something is wrong when the wideband 02 goes way lean if the FP begins to drop due to pump failure. So provided the experts here agree with me, I want to install a 100psi fluid filled fuel pressure gauge under the hood on the AN-6 fitting with another AN-6 T fitting at the OEM FPR location which I already picked up for $45 total, sell the fancy electronic boost gauge, and put the money towards a Autometer Ultralight II wideband o2 sensor/gauge model 4378 http://www.amazon.com/Autometer-Ultr.../dp/B000N5JE8G . My thinking is that boost is just something cool to see dance around and if something starts to leak or boost drops I will see it on the wideband right away going way rich, which isn’t dangerous, since the e-manage ultimate will continue to throw the fuel into the motor we tune it for at that specific RPM and throttle position so having the boost gauge is not necessary either. So to sum it all up, I want to install the fluid filled 100psi FP gauge under the hood, and install only a wideband O2 sensor/gauge in the car as I feel it will let me know the second boost, FP, or anything else starts to mess up and it is cheaper. What do you think about that? If someone has the other two Autometer Ultralight II gauges I need, wideband and FP for in the car viewing, and wants to cut a crazy deal hit me up with a PM and we can talk about it.

Now I will get to my random question that spurred me to start this thread. I have to thread the FP gauge into the AN-6 T fitting and they are match threaded but there is no seal in place for the threads like Teflon tape seals threads on a threaded water pipe connection. I know gasoline will dissolve Teflon tape so I don't want to use it even though the guy at the local race shop said that is what he has seen used before. I went to Autozone and the guy there told me to use RED Threadlocker and my only thought was WTF. Well I highly doubt I am the first person with this problem and want to know what you guys used when faced with the same scenario to seal the threads on the FP gauge or sensor, however you did yours. Obviously the AN-6 fittings are self sealing but the smaller ~1/4” diameter threaded base of the FP gauge and the matching threaded hole in the AN-6 T fitting are not just to clarify. Thanks fellas, Jim

artbran

iTrader: (2)

If you go to home depot of lowes, they have this stuff that looks like teflon tape but its redish pink. Its used for explosive liquids. It doesnt dissolve in fuel/gas/oil... Ask one of the guys that work there for it.

I have used it plenty of times when working on houses and such with fuel oil heating or gas lines in the basement.

As the the first long paragraph, I'm not sure at all...

rjurado_1215

yeah its like teflon tape but i used the yellow. get a fuel resistant o-ring that small enough and that should do.

jproy

No room or practical application of o-ring due to design of the gauge. The gauge is a chrome ring, black face, Marshall 100psi gauge. There is only the possibility of a thread type seal. Where are you Allmotor, Scalbert, Allout, BlueCLS6, MtBkr, ThinJim, Mattg, Steve, when I finally need you? Thanks for your input though guys.

brianlin87

iTrader: (1)

Allmotor - Sold.
Scalbert - Sold.
Allout - IIRC, Sold.
BlueCLS6 - Sold.
MtBkr - Sold.

ThinJim, Mattg, and MrSteve and Accord_V6_400m are your best options. Even though only one of them really drives a CL-S. GL

jproy

I know they are gone with the wind, it was a desperate cry for help. Thanks though.

Thinjim, Mattg, MrSteve, Accord_V6_400m, where are you when I finally need you! No really, anyone who knows about all this crap please chime in.

jproy

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

go to ace hardware and get a tube of pipe dope. if i remember what i used it had teflon in the pipe dope itself. pipe dope's all you need. don't use teflon tape as if a little breaks off into the fuel system, it will surely clog an injector. also when you smear the dope on the threads, start a couple threads up from the bottom so none has the potential to get into the system.

jproy

Thanks,
How about the Issue on Boost, Wideband, and Fuel Pressure gauges from the first paragraph of the first post? Which to use?

jproy

which to use if I want to use jjust one of them for in car viewing.

Allout

I usually use teflon tape but after reasearching further, you guys are correct that teflon tape is not recommended for gasoline. I used it on my mechanical fuel gauge and I don't have any leaks but I will probably go and reseal it after reading this thread. I'll probably use this stuff unless someone has a better suggestion.

From Permatex site:
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ad_Sealant.htm


Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant

OEM specified. Locks and seals threaded fittings. Resists leakage, vibration loosening, moisture, hydraulic fluids and diesel fuels. Lubricates threads for easy assembly and disassembly. Won’t shred or wear like Teflon® tape. Parts may be repositioned up to 4 hours after application. Temperature range from -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C). Contains PTFE.

Suggested Applications: Head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units and sensors, oil and coolant lines, fuel fittings, rear axle fill plug, brake and power steering fittings

jproy

Thank you very much sir! I will get some of that. Now how about my gauge dilemma in the first paragraph of the first post guys?

Allout

Jim,

I don't have gauges in the car just because I like a clean looking interior. I too went with the underhood mechanical fuel gauge as a diagnostic measure more than anything else. So far my setup has proved to be pretty reliable. I still occasionally get detonation but the main thing is to get your foot out of the throttle when you hear it.

I agree with your thinking on the wideband over the Fuel Pressure gauge. It is a good overall gauge to make sure things don't get too far off track. I don't think it will tell you if your belt is slipping though but you'll see that through a decrease in power. Good luck with your setup.

jproy

Any more input on the gauge issue?

jproy

I got the permatex sealant Allout recomended and all is well. It works great. Thanks.

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

Damn just noticed this so did you have any more questions jproy? I agree with your gauge mentatility however

jproy

No Accord Im good for now. I just did a bunch of work to the car and will be posting a large thread with pics as soon as i get it all put together on my computer but thanks.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

u ever get ur fuel pressure issue fixed? im still working on mine

jproy

Yes I did!
What is your problem exactly? My fuel pressure at idle was dancing all over because of temperature change both ambient and in the engine and in the intake itself. That is my conclusion. Vacuum was not completely steady at 20in/hg at idle. Everything must be set with the engine up to full temperature. I think the FPR reacts slightly to the heat generated from the engine bay. I never get on my car until it is fully warmed up. I had to drive mine around for 20 minutes to get it there and be sure. I removed the vacuum line and set the pressure at 66psi and with vacuum attached it fluctuates between 35 and 40 psi. You can verify that it is at the right pressure by attaching a vacuum gun to the FPR hose and squeezing the gun until you get to 20 in/hg on the gun gauge and see where the FPR is at pressure wise. You can get the vacuum gun from the brake bleeder kit at harbor freight for $19 with brass fittings. The problem is that I was not always getting a steady 20in/hg at idle from the manifold. I also found that the FPR would show a slightly different pressure with the hex screw locked down with the lock bolt than with the lock bolt lose. The car drives like a dream. Tons of power. Can’t wait to do the HBP with the emanage ultimate.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

Im glad u figured it out .My car has been running rich like crazy and im getting a CEL that says my bank one of injectors is running rich, but i can go through gas like its nuthn. It looks like my FPR is busted. I dont know how it happened but i put the fuel pressure gauge on yesterday with the an6 T fitting and started her up the PSI was fluctuating around 90-80 PSI which is waaaaayyyy to high so i tried turning it down but the PSI hasnt changed. I'm going to call Comptech to see if they know how to fix them or know someone who does because $280.00 for a brand new one from them is a little steep right now lol. But I may just have to buy one. Thanks for the tips.

jproy

What you need to do is make damn sure you have complete vacuum to the FPR! I mean get in the engine bay and check everything. All hoses to and from every single part of the intake system from the air filter to the cylinder heads. Make sure there is not a vacuum leak. Try pulling the vacuum line from the upper intake to the FPR and see what kind of pressure you get. Let me know if it goes down or up and to what? Next I would remove the FPR and take it completely apart, clean the shit out of it and put it back together and see what happens. It can be rebuilt. There is a rebuild kit for it from CT Engineering(Comptech) but it just may be dirty or slightly out of whack. There have been problems in the past but none that I know of as of recent. There are instructions at http://www.ct-engineering.com/indexflash.htm I would also call Nate at CT Engineering (used to be Comptech) (916) 635-4550 and talk to him about some kind of good will replacement etc. etc.. They are good people and if you treat them right they will help you. Their service is excellent although it can be pricy. You know it is getting done right though. Let me know what I can do to help.

jproy

I checked and I cant find the instructions on the CT Engineering website. Where they are supposed to be it says to call or email them for the instructions. They will so do.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

I checked every hose and line and everything is connected and marked, i pulled the vaccuum line and the pressure didnt change at all...i also checked the vaccuum and im getting 20in...its crazy...i called comptech and spoke with Rob i think his name was, he said if whoever had it before me tightened the screw all of the way then it couldve damaged the plate inside causing it not to adjust and stay @ almost full pressure...they said they could rebuild it for $105 which isnt a bad price(1 hours labor plus $5 parts)...I appreciate your help on this, I gotta get my baby runnin right!

jproy

Get it done and let us know how it goes. Sounds like the FPR is broken.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

ima ship it as soon as i get of work tomorrow! next day delivery...ill keep all posted

jproy

Honestly,
Did you install the blower yourself? If so, you got the skills to take the FPR apart and put the new washers/disks in yourself. It is much easier than installing a blower. Get CT to send you the $5 parts and installation instructions and save the $100 for a hot date!

EL19

iTrader: (4)

i assisted with the blower install just because ive never done an install that detailed...but im sure i could take it apart and do it myself...i will order them today! thanks