Looks Like I'll Have to Replace Clutch Before SC!
I'm a little uspet taht I have to go ahead and replace the OEM clutch before I do the SC. I'm not sure if I'll definitely have to but right now the OEM clutch has about 106K miles on it and feels like it's starting to slip a little. I have the CDD removed and this could have something to do with it. But I'm planning on doing the SC with the 6 lbs. of boost pulley in the next 3-4 months or so.
What do you guys think? Should I go ahead and replace the clutch before the SC, or just throw on the blower and wait until the clutch goes?
The car will most likely never be taken to the track, just driven somewhat aggressively on a regular basis. Probably engage in VTEC about 3-4 times a week. Thanks.
What do you guys think? Should I go ahead and replace the clutch before the SC, or just throw on the blower and wait until the clutch goes?
The car will most likely never be taken to the track, just driven somewhat aggressively on a regular basis. Probably engage in VTEC about 3-4 times a week. Thanks.
I am basically in the same situation as you at 82k miles, I have a blower waiting to be put in, but I am trying to get in on a groupbuy on V6 p for a Stage 3 clutch. I would say replace the clutch first, prob more difficult with a blower on.
With an already worn out clutch you are going to slip like crazy by adding 100+hp. With only 34k miles on the clutch I would slip 3rd and 4th gear quite often.
Do it right. Do it first.
Do it right. Do it first.
Yeah I am sure any aftermarket clutch will probably hold up better than stock? Or at least that's what I would assume. I didn't know there were aftermarket clutches made for the CL-6?
Originally Posted by mrsteve
With an already worn out clutch you are going to slip like crazy by adding 100+hp. With only 34k miles on the clutch I would slip 3rd and 4th gear quite often.
Do it right. Do it first.
Do it right. Do it first.
Maybe I have some kind of freak stock clutch because even when my buddy that's an Acura technician drives the car he said he feels like it's just barely starting to slip? And do you have to replace the flywheel as well as the clutch, or just the clutch?
Are there any aftermarket clutches made for the CL-6? Does the V6 Accord clutch work?
Are there any aftermarket clutches made for the CL-6? Does the V6 Accord clutch work?
And by the way is it often that the OEM flywheel needs to be replaced as well? The stock clutch really isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be - but I'm just wondering. Because for whatever reason I can get the OEM clutch for $450.00 and the OEM flywheel for $625.00.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
34K you say... hmm, yeah i've been thinking about this too, I have 25-30K on mine right now or about 14 months and I plan on running the 3" pulley.
Hard shifts at redline into 3rd and 4th would slip the clutch; primary reason why I removed the blower and sold it.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
Hard shifts at redline into 3rd and 4th would slip the clutch; primary reason why I removed the blower and sold it.
How could you sell the blower for that reason, its almost expected.
Slipping clutch is when your revs increase but your speed doesn't, or actually decreases.
I sold it because of the amount of miles I put on the car (60k in 30 months) and wanted reliability out of the stock components.
I sold it because of the amount of miles I put on the car (60k in 30 months) and wanted reliability out of the stock components.
Originally Posted by rondog
Yeah, so I have a blower on and when I get the car to hustle, 3rd and 4rth seem to take a while before the clutch is fully engaged. Its been like that from day one, i just thing that the clutch isn';t strong enough to handle that much power, I'm only with the 3 lb pulley too. Does that sound like what i am describing, a slipping clutch.
How could you sell the blower for that reason, its almost expected.
How could you sell the blower for that reason, its almost expected.
Originally Posted by M.J.H.
This was pretty much my exact point. On our cars and the 2 other CL-6's that I test drove 3rd and 4th were always the weakest gears in terms of the transmission. Now in terms of the power 3rd and 4th feel strong as hell, IMO. But anyway I'm going to go ahead and replace the OEM clutch with another OEM clutch when I do the SC - but I'm going straight to the 6 lbs. pulley. Hopefully I won't have to replace the flywheel, my Acura technician said that he's never seen a CL-6 that needs the flywheel replaced, only the clutch.
All of my stuff has less then 30K so im not too worried about my flywheel, but I am about the clutch kit.
I feel like going with the clutch masters kit but some people have problems with it and others liek Siggy don't. Although everyone that has had problems got the clucth ony and not the flywheel+kit together.
It would be ironic if I sold the SC for a lightweight flywheel/clutch kit.
Replace the clutch before you add the blower. I've had my tranny pulled two times under warranty - once for the rear main seal and the other time for the input shaft seal on the gearbox. Both times they charged me around $125 for the additional labor to pull the blower off so they could get to the gearbox.
BTW:
Flywheel 22100-PGE-026 $369
Clutch Kit 22105-PGE-315 $223
Release Bearing 22810-PPT-003 $31
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/
BTW:
Flywheel 22100-PGE-026 $369
Clutch Kit 22105-PGE-315 $223
Release Bearing 22810-PPT-003 $31
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/
Mine is in the shop right now having the clutch replaced. It has been slipping for several months and gradually got worse. Was cruising along the interstate at about 65MPH last week and all of a sudden it felt like I yanked it out of gear without engaging the clutch. I knew right then that it was done. Just over 106k miles. Flywheel had to be replaced because it had several hot spots and they said they could not resurface it anyways because it's a dual mass flywheel. It's gonna cost me about $1800 total. It's an ASE certified shop with a good rep. Also, Warrantied parts and labor. So if you feel it's a lot, It probably is. I prefer to stay away from mom and pop shops as well as dealerships. They usually either get you from behind or leave you stranded. Good luck to ya!
Just got it back from the shop. Feels so much better. Clutch is a little light, but I may just need to pump it a little. Anyways. It's feels brand new. Had all OEM parts put on by the way. Wish I had the money to do performance parts, but that will have to be after I pay her off.
Originally Posted by Dirty Type-S
Pay now.. pay later.. either way ur going to be paying.. so do it nowand do it right..
shit vtec engages me 4 times a day ahahah..
shit vtec engages me 4 times a day ahahah..
Originally Posted by srehmat02
Sorry to thread jack, but do I need to replace the pilot bearing in my clutch install? I forgot to order that piece.
Originally Posted by srehmat02
Sorry to thread jack, but do I need to replace the pilot bearing in my clutch install? I forgot to order that piece.
Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
Its the same thing as the TOB (Throw Out Bearing) so if you ordered that then your good, if not do so, its a small price to pay for a car that runs right and the resulting peace of mind 
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cycdaniel
1G TSX Performance Parts & Modifications
8
Dec 17, 2019 10:58 AM
mugen_kid
Member Cars for Sale
7
Nov 13, 2015 10:38 PM





