Looks Like I'll Have to Replace Clutch Before SC!

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Old 10-12-2007, 08:53 AM
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Angry Looks Like I'll Have to Replace Clutch Before SC!

I'm a little uspet taht I have to go ahead and replace the OEM clutch before I do the SC. I'm not sure if I'll definitely have to but right now the OEM clutch has about 106K miles on it and feels like it's starting to slip a little. I have the CDD removed and this could have something to do with it. But I'm planning on doing the SC with the 6 lbs. of boost pulley in the next 3-4 months or so.

What do you guys think? Should I go ahead and replace the clutch before the SC, or just throw on the blower and wait until the clutch goes?

The car will most likely never be taken to the track, just driven somewhat aggressively on a regular basis. Probably engage in VTEC about 3-4 times a week. Thanks.
Old 10-12-2007, 01:41 PM
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I am basically in the same situation as you at 82k miles, I have a blower waiting to be put in, but I am trying to get in on a groupbuy on V6 p for a Stage 3 clutch. I would say replace the clutch first, prob more difficult with a blower on.
Old 10-12-2007, 03:05 PM
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With an already worn out clutch you are going to slip like crazy by adding 100+hp. With only 34k miles on the clutch I would slip 3rd and 4th gear quite often.

Do it right. Do it first.
Old 10-12-2007, 03:06 PM
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Yeah I am sure any aftermarket clutch will probably hold up better than stock? Or at least that's what I would assume. I didn't know there were aftermarket clutches made for the CL-6?
Old 10-12-2007, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
With an already worn out clutch you are going to slip like crazy by adding 100+hp. With only 34k miles on the clutch I would slip 3rd and 4th gear quite often.

Do it right. Do it first.
34K you say... hmm, yeah i've been thinking about this too, I have 25-30K on mine right now or about 14 months and I plan on running the 3" pulley.
Old 10-12-2007, 05:23 PM
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Maybe I have some kind of freak stock clutch because even when my buddy that's an Acura technician drives the car he said he feels like it's just barely starting to slip? And do you have to replace the flywheel as well as the clutch, or just the clutch?

Are there any aftermarket clutches made for the CL-6? Does the V6 Accord clutch work?
Old 10-12-2007, 05:29 PM
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And by the way is it often that the OEM flywheel needs to be replaced as well? The stock clutch really isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be - but I'm just wondering. Because for whatever reason I can get the OEM clutch for $450.00 and the OEM flywheel for $625.00.
Old 10-12-2007, 06:30 PM
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Depends on the condition of the flywheel. If it has hot spots it will need replaced. It can not be resurfaced.
Old 10-12-2007, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
34K you say... hmm, yeah i've been thinking about this too, I have 25-30K on mine right now or about 14 months and I plan on running the 3" pulley.

Hard shifts at redline into 3rd and 4th would slip the clutch; primary reason why I removed the blower and sold it.
Old 10-12-2007, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Hard shifts at redline into 3rd and 4th would slip the clutch; primary reason why I removed the blower and sold it.
Yeah, so I have a blower on and when I get the car to hustle, 3rd and 4rth seem to take a while before the clutch is fully engaged. Its been like that from day one, i just thing that the clutch isn';t strong enough to handle that much power, I'm only with the 3 lb pulley too. Does that sound like what i am describing, a slipping clutch.

How could you sell the blower for that reason, its almost expected.
Old 10-12-2007, 07:39 PM
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Slipping clutch is when your revs increase but your speed doesn't, or actually decreases.

I sold it because of the amount of miles I put on the car (60k in 30 months) and wanted reliability out of the stock components.
Old 10-12-2007, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rondog
Yeah, so I have a blower on and when I get the car to hustle, 3rd and 4rth seem to take a while before the clutch is fully engaged. Its been like that from day one, i just thing that the clutch isn';t strong enough to handle that much power, I'm only with the 3 lb pulley too. Does that sound like what i am describing, a slipping clutch.

How could you sell the blower for that reason, its almost expected.
This was pretty much my exact point. On our cars and the 2 other CL-6's that I test drove 3rd and 4th were always the weakest gears in terms of the transmission. Now in terms of the power 3rd and 4th feel strong as hell, IMO. But anyway I'm going to go ahead and replace the OEM clutch with another OEM clutch when I do the SC - but I'm going straight to the 6 lbs. pulley. Hopefully I won't have to replace the flywheel, my Acura technician said that he's never seen a CL-6 that needs the flywheel replaced, only the clutch.
Old 10-12-2007, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by M.J.H.
This was pretty much my exact point. On our cars and the 2 other CL-6's that I test drove 3rd and 4th were always the weakest gears in terms of the transmission. Now in terms of the power 3rd and 4th feel strong as hell, IMO. But anyway I'm going to go ahead and replace the OEM clutch with another OEM clutch when I do the SC - but I'm going straight to the 6 lbs. pulley. Hopefully I won't have to replace the flywheel, my Acura technician said that he's never seen a CL-6 that needs the flywheel replaced, only the clutch.
Well just like any other flywheel it can only be resurfaced so much, so depending on how much its worn and what its condition as Mr.Steve mentioned will determine whether or not it needs to be replaced.

All of my stuff has less then 30K so im not too worried about my flywheel, but I am about the clutch kit.

I feel like going with the clutch masters kit but some people have problems with it and others liek Siggy don't. Although everyone that has had problems got the clucth ony and not the flywheel+kit together.

It would be ironic if I sold the SC for a lightweight flywheel/clutch kit.
Old 10-12-2007, 09:02 PM
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Replace the clutch before you add the blower. I've had my tranny pulled two times under warranty - once for the rear main seal and the other time for the input shaft seal on the gearbox. Both times they charged me around $125 for the additional labor to pull the blower off so they could get to the gearbox.

BTW:
Flywheel 22100-PGE-026 $369
Clutch Kit 22105-PGE-315 $223
Release Bearing 22810-PPT-003 $31

http://www.oemacuraparts.com/
Old 10-13-2007, 08:19 AM
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I think I'm going to order the clutch kit and the release bearing, most likely. And maybe the flywheel if worst comes to worst.
Old 10-15-2007, 10:07 AM
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Mine is in the shop right now having the clutch replaced. It has been slipping for several months and gradually got worse. Was cruising along the interstate at about 65MPH last week and all of a sudden it felt like I yanked it out of gear without engaging the clutch. I knew right then that it was done. Just over 106k miles. Flywheel had to be replaced because it had several hot spots and they said they could not resurface it anyways because it's a dual mass flywheel. It's gonna cost me about $1800 total. It's an ASE certified shop with a good rep. Also, Warrantied parts and labor. So if you feel it's a lot, It probably is. I prefer to stay away from mom and pop shops as well as dealerships. They usually either get you from behind or leave you stranded. Good luck to ya!
Old 10-16-2007, 04:23 PM
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Just got it back from the shop. Feels so much better. Clutch is a little light, but I may just need to pump it a little. Anyways. It's feels brand new. Had all OEM parts put on by the way. Wish I had the money to do performance parts, but that will have to be after I pay her off.
Old 10-16-2007, 05:18 PM
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Yeah I'm actually going to replace the clutch with an OEM clutch before I do the SC. Hopefully my OEM flywheel is okay and doesn't need resurfacing, etc.
Old 10-16-2007, 05:34 PM
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You're at 106k miles plan on replacing it.
Old 10-16-2007, 06:02 PM
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Pay now.. pay later.. either way ur going to be paying.. so do it nowand do it right..

shit i engage vtec 4 times a day ahahah..
Old 10-17-2007, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Type-S
Pay now.. pay later.. either way ur going to be paying.. so do it nowand do it right..

shit vtec engages me 4 times a day ahahah..
Corrected your post
Old 10-17-2007, 02:33 PM
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Sorry to thread jack, but do I need to replace the pilot bearing in my clutch install? I forgot to order that piece.
Old 10-17-2007, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by srehmat02
Sorry to thread jack, but do I need to replace the pilot bearing in my clutch install? I forgot to order that piece.
I believe so...according to Allout. Not sure but you should ask Allout if its needed.
Old 10-17-2007, 07:45 PM
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Are there any other aftermarket clutch kits besides comptech?
I heard competition clutch is coming out with one but not sure if they will come through
Old 10-17-2007, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by srehmat02
Sorry to thread jack, but do I need to replace the pilot bearing in my clutch install? I forgot to order that piece.
Its the same thing as the TOB (Throw Out Bearing) so if you ordered that then your good, if not do so, its a small price to pay for a car that runs right and the resulting peace of mind
Old 10-17-2007, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
Its the same thing as the TOB (Throw Out Bearing) so if you ordered that then your good, if not do so, its a small price to pay for a car that runs right and the resulting peace of mind
Pilot bearing is different than the release/throwout bearing. It's item #7 in the diagram below. It's purpose is to support the end of the gearbox input shaft. I'm always overly cautious and usually replace more than I need as a precaution. Most people don't replace the pilot bearing that I know of but for a $28 part, it's up to you. I just don't like having to go back in for bad bearings if I can avoid it.

Old 11-20-2007, 09:30 AM
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well i came acorss your post .... and my clutch is blown too.. i need to get on that group buy
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