I've been having nothing but bad luck with mods this past year. Anyways, I got a J32A2 (auto motor) swapped into my car. Please do not post any tranny comments here. I'm looking for actual help.

Setup:
J32A2 auto engine (completely stock, even the injectors)
Accord 4AT Tranny
Accord Engine Wiring Harness & ECU
Comptech SC with CL-S HBP + Custom pulley (made 8.5psi on my Accord, should be lower with the J32A2 now)
Brand new Denso IK22 plugs were put in
Comptech FPR set to 40psi @ warm idle
Snow Performance kit with 225ml nozzle
UR non-underdrive crank pulley & PS pulley
Emanage with Boomslang PnP harness
Outlaw IM thermoblok spacer

A lot of the mods where taken off my Accord and put onto the CL-S motor. The car idles perfect and AFR is 14.7AFR. Even when revving from idle the car sounds fine. As soon as I put it in drive and step on the throttle pass 1.5K RPM, the car will start to misfire and the CEL will flash. The CEL will keep flashing as long as I'm driving it until the light becomes solid. You can hear and feel the car misfire. My AFR gauge shows a lot of fluctuation from 14.5 to 16.0 when this is happening. My tuner said it might just need a tune but I don't think that's the problem. The car isn't even in boost at that point plus it idles fine too. All the Emanage maps are zero'd out at the moment. I believe he added some fuel but it didnt seem to help much. Any ideas what could be the problem?

Ohh IMRC is disabled too. My RC440cc injectors stayed in the old motor and the Aeromotive 1:1 FPR wasn't used.

 

having a swap is complicated already, so if i were you, i'll try to get the car running with the swap engine first before putting the boost, that way you can break it down on what is really wrong with the car.

 

I forgot to mention, the exhaust note sounds like it was sputtering as the car was driving.

 

+Infinity!

The swap alone can cause you hundreds of problems, you've just added dozens of additional unknowns to the equation with the mods. As hard as it may be to consider, you need to get it running optimally as a basic swap before adding the mods back on.

 

Using the stock Accord ECU and 4spd eh? Hmm.. your making it really hard to make the swap work right for you. The ECU has no functions for knock sensors, since the J30A1 didn't have any. Is the car even tuned?

 

Well I'm following the same setup as 02AV6(Serge) minus the Dr.Evil tranny he had. In theory it should work exactly the same way his did. Does this sound like a bad crank position sensor?

 

check the cat whiles ur at it...one easy way to determine is unbolt it just bofore and leave it dangle

 

I doubt it would be his cats all of a sudden, unless he did something to damage then that we don't know about. I used the Accord cat on the J32 without problems just slight decrease in power though.

 

I highly doubt it's the cat as well but I'll have the shop look at it. Well the car idles perfect with a 14.7 AFR and engine seems real smooth. The "misfires" only happens when I drive so can I eliminate the bottom items for causing this problem?

- Spark plugs (brand new)
- Coil Packs
- Injectors??? (if it idles fine, does that mean they are good???)
- Fuel Pump??? (if it idles fine, does that mean it's good???)
- FPR??? (if it idles fine, does that mean it's good???)

 

high 14 to 16 A/Fs would damage it quickly

 

well it's happening when you put a load on the engine, so maybe it has something to do with that. Do you have the J32 knock sensor wired into the e-manage?

did you put premium fuel in it?

 

94 octane gas. The knock sensor is not hooked up due to the use of Accord ECU. I didn't know you can hook up the knock sensor wire to the Emanage.

 

Would it be possible that its running to rich??

 

I would say go wtih a tune first. You just might be shooting too much fuel with the bigger injectors untuned. But that's just my two cents, and I have no experience with your setup (it being supercharged).

 

I was thinking the same thing. Based on his description, it sounds like my car on the bottle with no n2o left in it (wet kit).

 

Hmm too rich? If it was rich misfires, wouldn't the AFR but around 10's instead of what I'm seeing? My AFR gauge shows a lot of fluctuation from 14.5 to 16.0 when some throttle is applied.

 

I'm using the stock CL-S injectors. I left the RC440cc injectors in the old motor and I won't be using those.

 

Probably from the heat, but richer AFR's would destroy it from the abundance of hydrocarbons, I think it only needs 2% or more to do away with the cat.

 

Ohh yea, thanks for the heads up about the themoblok not fitting Nick. We had to trim the skeleton of the hood just like you said. Oh and my installer installed the TB themo gasket too so I won't be able to sell it to you now. Sorry lol.

So anyone else have any other ideas of what be causing this problem?

 

You're right, it would be a lean mixture. But the way you describe it, sounds like a rich mixture. You did state you're not running the IMRC, so that rules out detonation caused by that. Although, are you sure it back fires, and not detonation you hear?

I say go with a tune if you're using the stock 3.0 ecu.

 

Were the plugs put in correctly? May sound like a dumb question, but it can make all the difference in the world.

 

Yeah I'm using the stock J30 ECU. It doesn't sound like tuning will fix it though. The exhaust is spluttering, not really back firing when I step on the throttle. I wish I could record a sound clip but the car is still in the shop.

 

Just a little update. So my tuner increased the warm idle FP to almost 60 psi and he said it's getting better but the misfire is still there. What does that mean then? Is it possible the injectors are just really dirty from the motor sitting for 3+ years? Obviously that 60psi FP will too much when boost kicks in with the CT FPR.

 

Bump.

 

Since you're experience misfires under engine load, it tells me something is up with either motor or fuel pressure and/or delivery. BTW, you current idle FP is extremely high.

Personally, I had brand new J32A2 block along with almost new cyl. heads and still asked to check the valves so that was covered before I had the blower kit back on. You should've checked the engine first by running NA then go from there. If it's running fine with the blower on, make sense to check CT FPR which is not uncommon to fail. I prefer Vortech Super FMU (FPR) which is far more superior unit and already comes with set of different/smaller calibration plates/rings if needed.

So, just remove the blower kit and e-manage and run NA with stock (CL-S) FPR. If you still misfire there are bunch of things to check:
- Pistons compression
- Valvetrain
- Head gaskets
- IM
- Coils
- Fuel pump voltage
- Cat. Converter (might be clogged)
- Injectors

I know you will spend on labor but talk to your shop and you might have a deal.

 

Update: Turns out it was the EGR. My tuner did all the usual checks for misfire and nothing seemed to help. Last thing he checked was the EGR and it turned out to be just that.

At first he replaced the EGR valve with the one on my old motor and that didn't help. He tried both the one from the CL-S motor and my J30 motor and nothing. Then he completely removed the EGR and no more misfires. He said with the EGR valve off, it'll throw a CEL though. Now how do I fix this EGR valve problem? Is it a problem with the actual valve or is it due to that clogged port from the EGR -> IM? I believe there was a kit that Honda has to drill out that port and place some metal tube in there? Damn the misfire code was quite misleading.

Right now, the EGR valve is off the car and it's running perfect. FP was reduce 45psi and Emanage maps are all zero'd out. I'll dial down the FP to 40psi.

 

wait EGR valve is out? doesn't that make the car sound loud? also, how did you get the car to run without that?

 

if the egr valve is off completely then I think you should figure out exactly what was causing the problem in that area before making up your mind. with the egr valve off completely the engine is running way differentl,y. it may be that the port in the intake manifold that is connected to the egr is clogged, or maybe somewhere else along the lines of the egr ports.

but at least you have narrowed down where the problem is. I highly suggest you find a way to make it work without getting rid of the egr valve. especially if you hav eto get smog tested.

btw glad it's running good now. let us know when you find out exactly what it is. I really wanna swap in a J32 also, but very worried about problems like this.

 

Cars will run just fine without EGR's. I had an EGR blocker plate on my Accord. Exhaust Gas Recirculation. all it does is just loop the exhaust one more time to burn it up some more.

 

DIY or ebay?

 

My friend DIY'd it for me.

 

pics?

 

Oh I don't plan on running without the EGR. My tuner just did it as a test and found that it was the problem. With it off, the car is running fine. I'm trying to figure out if it's the EGR valve unit or if it's a clogged port. We tried both my J30 & J32 EGR valve and both caused the same problems I described in earlier posts. With the EGR valve completely off, it's fine.

Is it possible both my EGR valves are busted? I'm thinking if the ports are clogged and the valve is working properly, wouldn't the car be driving as if the EGR valve was off since none of the exhaust gas would get back into the intake manifold? My tuner suggested to block off the EGR but it will trigger a CEL. He told me that he does that alot with 2JZ and SR20 swaps. You'll have to fool the ECU that the EGR is still working. I'm still planning on putting the EGR back on though.

 

It will not burn up some more. The air thrown back in is not combustable. The real reason for the EGR is to lengthen the life of the engine. Here's the math.

20% throttle, XXX amount of Exhaust gases is being put back into the intake manifold to throw back in the combustion chambers. Since this air has already been combusted, it is not usable to make power. Now, with this in the combustion chamber, mixed with air and fuel, you can now only fit so much air and fuel in there (percentages change based on amount of throttle used). With this being the case, you now have less heat being produced during the combustion process, therefore putting less stress and wear on the moving parts internally. (Because it's not combustable, it cannot produce any more heat, that's how the temps lower). This also results in less power and better fuel economy (not by much).

But, since this is done through vacuum pressure, at 100% you get ZERO exhaust gases thrown back in the intake manifold, therefore producing full power out of the engine with 100% of the combustion chamber full of air and fuel.

I think pictures would be easier to understand.

 

There's actually more math to it that's involved. I can't explain the chemistry that's involved, I understand how it works, I just forget the terms used...