IAT - Pre/Post Thermoblock
03-02-2005, 03:22 PM
#121
Burning Brakes
I just ordered my set as well. Saving the $6 on shipping though a group buy is not going to break the bank. Hopefully it will deliver the extra 4-5 whp as claimed.
Here is a link to the install instructions. Seems pretty simple.
http://www.outlawengineering.com/Ins...onda%20V-6.zip
Here is a link to the install instructions. Seems pretty simple.
http://www.outlawengineering.com/Ins...onda%20V-6.zip
03-02-2005, 03:23 PM
#122
03-02-2005, 09:22 PM
#124
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Originally Posted by Bobbydoedoe
i wonder how much of a discount those nissan ppl got as mention on the reply
03-02-2005, 09:39 PM
#125
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Originally Posted by ndawood
I was wondering the same thing and did some reaarch. From what I found they saved 15%. But keep in mind that they had over 30 people in the group buy!
03-03-2005, 09:23 AM
#126
Team Owner
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Got a response:
Steve,
We are not ignoring you, we are just extremely busy at the moment. I will certainly respond as I would like to discuss the matter as well. My apologies for the tardy reply.
Best regards,
Sean Morgan
Outlaw Engineering
We are not ignoring you, we are just extremely busy at the moment. I will certainly respond as I would like to discuss the matter as well. My apologies for the tardy reply.
Best regards,
Sean Morgan
Outlaw Engineering
Hello,
I writing in hopes of getting some clarification on your Acura CL-S dyno graph posted on your website. I've spent about 3 (about 20 pulls) hours on the dyno with my Acura CL-S and the graph you display looks NOTHING like what a J32A2 should look like.
I'm including this link to a copy of a dyno that was performed this past summer. Please note my car is not stock, it has the standard I/H/E bolt-ons.
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL212/...7/58398661.jpg
The Outlaw dyno shows the car making 130whp at 3500 rpm. My modified CL-S only shows 120whp. At 4500 the Outlaw dyno shows the car making 180whp, my car is only making a little over 150whp. The Outlaw dyno shows peak whp at 5000 rpms my car doesn't make peak power until 1500 rpms later.
Also, the J32A2 is only rated at 232 ft-lbs, yet on your dyno the car is showing 220 ft-lbs at the wheels. The Acura CL-S equipped with the automatic transmission experiences a 25% drive train loss. This equates to approx. 172 ft-lbs at the wheels, yet your car is showing a difference of 50 ft-lbs.
The dyno you claim to be from an Acura CL-S shows nice gains, but unfortunately in my opinion, it isn't from an Acura CL-S. Possibly you made a mistake? We'd (Acurazine) like to see the actual dyno graph. I'm in no way saying your product doesn't do what it claims. Another Acura CL-S owner recently tested the product and noticed approx. a 10 degree drop in IAT readings. I'm just curious as to what the REAL dyno (if there is one) actually shows.
Thank you,
~ Steve Geraci
Stephen Geraci
Project Manager
Custer Environmental, Inc
Office:xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cell: xxxxxxxxx
I writing in hopes of getting some clarification on your Acura CL-S dyno graph posted on your website. I've spent about 3 (about 20 pulls) hours on the dyno with my Acura CL-S and the graph you display looks NOTHING like what a J32A2 should look like.
I'm including this link to a copy of a dyno that was performed this past summer. Please note my car is not stock, it has the standard I/H/E bolt-ons.
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL212/...7/58398661.jpg
The Outlaw dyno shows the car making 130whp at 3500 rpm. My modified CL-S only shows 120whp. At 4500 the Outlaw dyno shows the car making 180whp, my car is only making a little over 150whp. The Outlaw dyno shows peak whp at 5000 rpms my car doesn't make peak power until 1500 rpms later.
Also, the J32A2 is only rated at 232 ft-lbs, yet on your dyno the car is showing 220 ft-lbs at the wheels. The Acura CL-S equipped with the automatic transmission experiences a 25% drive train loss. This equates to approx. 172 ft-lbs at the wheels, yet your car is showing a difference of 50 ft-lbs.
The dyno you claim to be from an Acura CL-S shows nice gains, but unfortunately in my opinion, it isn't from an Acura CL-S. Possibly you made a mistake? We'd (Acurazine) like to see the actual dyno graph. I'm in no way saying your product doesn't do what it claims. Another Acura CL-S owner recently tested the product and noticed approx. a 10 degree drop in IAT readings. I'm just curious as to what the REAL dyno (if there is one) actually shows.
Thank you,
~ Steve Geraci
Stephen Geraci
Project Manager
Custer Environmental, Inc
Office:xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cell: xxxxxxxxx
03-03-2005, 11:06 AM
#128
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by mrsteve
Steve,
We are not ignoring you, we are just extremely busy at the moment. I will certainly respond as I would like to discuss the matter as well. My apologies for the tardy reply.
Best regards,
Sean Morgan
Outlaw Engineering
We are not ignoring you, we are just extremely busy at the moment. I will certainly respond as I would like to discuss the matter as well. My apologies for the tardy reply.
Best regards,
Sean Morgan
Outlaw Engineering
03-03-2005, 01:53 PM
#129
03-03-2005, 02:22 PM
#130
Senior Moderator
i'm about to start the install
03-03-2005, 02:40 PM
#133
Senior Moderator
i'm having a little bite to eat first. 
03-03-2005, 04:22 PM
#136
Not Asian
03-03-2005, 07:16 PM
#138
Senior Moderator
yep, success.
took me ~ 2.5 hours, but i spent a while cleaning out the manifold and throttle body. it's nice to have a parts washer in my shop.
the install isn't bad. there are quite a few hoses and plugs you have to undo. getting every thing apart is the most time consuming, putting it back together goes pretty quick.
this isn't like installing an intake though guys, it's quite a bit more difficult and time consuming than that. i would say you need moderate mechanic skills to comfortably complete this job.
took me ~ 2.5 hours, but i spent a while cleaning out the manifold and throttle body. it's nice to have a parts washer in my shop.
the install isn't bad. there are quite a few hoses and plugs you have to undo. getting every thing apart is the most time consuming, putting it back together goes pretty quick.
this isn't like installing an intake though guys, it's quite a bit more difficult and time consuming than that. i would say you need moderate mechanic skills to comfortably complete this job.
03-03-2005, 07:18 PM
#139
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Originally Posted by mattg
yep, success.
took me ~ 2.5 hours, but i spent a while cleaning out the manifold and throttle body. it's nice to have a parts washer in my shop.
the install isn't bad. there are quite a few hoses and plugs you have to undo. getting every thing apart is the most time consuming, putting it back together goes pretty quick.
this isn't like installing an intake though guys, it's quite a bit more difficult and time consuming than that. i would say you need moderate mechanic skills to comfortably complete this job.
took me ~ 2.5 hours, but i spent a while cleaning out the manifold and throttle body. it's nice to have a parts washer in my shop.
the install isn't bad. there are quite a few hoses and plugs you have to undo. getting every thing apart is the most time consuming, putting it back together goes pretty quick.
this isn't like installing an intake though guys, it's quite a bit more difficult and time consuming than that. i would say you need moderate mechanic skills to comfortably complete this job.
03-03-2005, 07:33 PM
#140
Senior Moderator
it just barked the tires on the 1-2 shift harder than it ever had before. twice.
03-03-2005, 07:48 PM
#142
Parting out 02 Type S :(
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Originally Posted by mattg
yep, success.
took me ~ 2.5 hours, but i spent a while cleaning out the manifold and throttle body. it's nice to have a parts washer in my shop.
the install isn't bad. there are quite a few hoses and plugs you have to undo. getting every thing apart is the most time consuming, putting it back together goes pretty quick.
this isn't like installing an intake though guys, it's quite a bit more difficult and time consuming than that. i would say you need moderate mechanic skills to comfortably complete this job.
took me ~ 2.5 hours, but i spent a while cleaning out the manifold and throttle body. it's nice to have a parts washer in my shop.
the install isn't bad. there are quite a few hoses and plugs you have to undo. getting every thing apart is the most time consuming, putting it back together goes pretty quick.
this isn't like installing an intake though guys, it's quite a bit more difficult and time consuming than that. i would say you need moderate mechanic skills to comfortably complete this job.
03-03-2005, 08:25 PM
#144
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by power3dfx
care to note what tools were involved? im considering doing this before i do my dyno this saturday.
of course mine had a razor blade in it.
03-03-2005, 08:54 PM
#145
Senior Moderator
before
ready to be reassembled
manifold and TB assembly ready to go back on
the kit also came w/ a fitting to bypass the TB coolant line, which i installed as well.
ready to be reassembled
manifold and TB assembly ready to go back on
the kit also came w/ a fitting to bypass the TB coolant line, which i installed as well.
03-03-2005, 09:52 PM
#147
Senior Moderator
i'm not sure on that. someone will know.
you probably have to take it off to do the water pump though, and i've always heard to do the timing belt and the water pump at the same time.
belt is supposed to be changed at 90k, right?
you probably have to take it off to do the water pump though, and i've always heard to do the timing belt and the water pump at the same time.
belt is supposed to be changed at 90k, right?
03-03-2005, 10:15 PM
#149
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
105k I thought...
03-03-2005, 10:16 PM
#150
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Originally Posted by mattg
it just barked the tires on the 1-2 shift harder than it ever had before. twice.
03-03-2005, 10:34 PM
#152
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by ndawood
with your setup you should be ripping those tires to shit on every shift!!!!
w/ nitrous i can smoke the tires through 3rd gear
03-03-2005, 10:48 PM
#153
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Doom878
I was going to do my timing belt change while installing this mod. Don't you have to take off the IM to do the timing belt?
03-03-2005, 10:59 PM
#155
Senior Moderator
me vs. mrsteve vs. mystery turbo
03-03-2005, 11:07 PM
#156
Team Owner
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Yes, you have to remove the IM for the timing-belt... although you have to remove a heck of a lot of other more complicated stuff!! The only reason to remove the IM for the timing-belt change is to access/remove the valve-covers.
03-03-2005, 11:24 PM
#157
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mattg
me vs. mrsteve vs. mystery turbo
03-03-2005, 11:55 PM
#160
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
In the instructions, it mentions locking two nuts together to remove the studs. Now, where do these two nuts come from?
Don't you have two nuts???
^^ You asked for that one!
Anyways... you can use a vice-grip... I don't like the two-nuts way because you can't get a wrench around the inner one when there is another one tightened next to it!