how much would a s/c add?
09-13-2010, 09:15 PM
#41
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
yea I think I am gonna get everything done including the heads..
I'm gonna start saving guys, and head down there in the winter. get the tb, manifold, runners, and heads fully done, along with a custom 3 inch exhaust.
I'm going for broke here guys :-) (maybe I am wrong) but it might just end up being the most beastly n/a, non tuned, true j32a2 we've seen in an auto cl yet.
I wanna see what the max is.. :-)
I'm gonna start saving guys, and head down there in the winter. get the tb, manifold, runners, and heads fully done, along with a custom 3 inch exhaust.
I'm going for broke here guys :-) (maybe I am wrong) but it might just end up being the most beastly n/a, non tuned, true j32a2 we've seen in an auto cl yet.
I wanna see what the max is.. :-)
09-13-2010, 09:56 PM
#42
If I was you,I would pick up a set of lower runners and open them up as big as the gaskets would allow.
Then when you have a couple free days when you don't have to use the car do the manifold yourself too.
Then after you save some money pick up a set of heads and have them worked by some one who know's what they are doing,preferabily get some upgraded cams wether new custom or re grinds while you still driving the car.
Let them sit till you have money to complete the lower end.
Not everyone has stacks to dump on parts and labor all at once.
Then when you have a couple free days when you don't have to use the car do the manifold yourself too.
Then after you save some money pick up a set of heads and have them worked by some one who know's what they are doing,preferabily get some upgraded cams wether new custom or re grinds while you still driving the car.
Let them sit till you have money to complete the lower end.
Not everyone has stacks to dump on parts and labor all at once.
09-14-2010, 08:08 AM
#47
With higher lift cams you will lose power on the lower end and build on the higher end.
Only way to help that is to keep bumping up compression to regain said loss on lower end.
No way he would just lose power.
But If your just slaping in higher lift cams without increasing compression then obviously you would lose on the lower end.
some people just buy parts and do not do their home work.
Well when the time comes I will be trying some myself and let you know first hand.
Only way to help that is to keep bumping up compression to regain said loss on lower end.
No way he would just lose power.
But If your just slaping in higher lift cams without increasing compression then obviously you would lose on the lower end.
some people just buy parts and do not do their home work.
Well when the time comes I will be trying some myself and let you know first hand.
09-14-2010, 11:09 AM
#48
Three Wheelin'
You might be ok to raise comp on your clp, but the CLS is pretty high already. I can't imagine you could go much higher on the cls with pump gas.
09-14-2010, 07:19 PM
#49
yea see I don't want to take the motor out the car or anything.
I really want to go on a road trip.
I have had lots of bad work done on my previous car. Even after hunting around, and getting reviews.
So I would like to take my car somewhere I feel confident and will have no worries.
As for exhaust I am worried about noise a lot. so I'm going to have to hold off for now on that. I'm gonna get the XLR8 high flow cat.. and leave the exhaust alone for now.
But as for the motor. tb, manifold, runners, and heads done with 3angle valve job and new valve seals
that's the plan... now I just gotta figure out when.
I really want to go on a road trip.
I have had lots of bad work done on my previous car. Even after hunting around, and getting reviews.
So I would like to take my car somewhere I feel confident and will have no worries.
As for exhaust I am worried about noise a lot. so I'm going to have to hold off for now on that. I'm gonna get the XLR8 high flow cat.. and leave the exhaust alone for now.
But as for the motor. tb, manifold, runners, and heads done with 3angle valve job and new valve seals
that's the plan... now I just gotta figure out when.
09-14-2010, 08:47 PM
#50
Three Wheelin'
You do know that to port all thoes parts correctly at a machine shop and a valve job is going to cost well over a $1000.00 bucks right? And that does not include any labor from R&R the parts. You might want to consider the SC. I think you'll get more bang for your buck.
If you are not going to remove the heads your self and after the parts ie seals, valve seals,gaskets, labor of the machine shop, and labor to remove and replace that parts I bet you'll be well into $2000.00 .
I don't care what anyone says, you are not going to get a good port on all thoes parts using sand paper and your fingers at your kitchen table. If you are going to do that just get some lapping compound and a drill and do your own valve job too.
If you are not going to remove the heads your self and after the parts ie seals, valve seals,gaskets, labor of the machine shop, and labor to remove and replace that parts I bet you'll be well into $2000.00 .
I don't care what anyone says, you are not going to get a good port on all thoes parts using sand paper and your fingers at your kitchen table. If you are going to do that just get some lapping compound and a drill and do your own valve job too.
09-14-2010, 09:28 PM
#52
Three Wheelin'
No actually it was not Parker. I've seen a few people sit there and rub till their fingers were bleeding.
What you did was nice work for an at home job, I'll give you that. But it's no match for a CNC machine shop job.
What you did was nice work for an at home job, I'll give you that. But it's no match for a CNC machine shop job.
09-15-2010, 06:58 AM
#54
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
You do know that to port all thoes parts correctly at a machine shop and a valve job is going to cost well over a $1000.00 bucks right? And that does not include any labor from R&R the parts. You might want to consider the SC. I think you'll get more bang for your buck.
If you are not going to remove the heads your self and after the parts ie seals, valve seals,gaskets, labor of the machine shop, and labor to remove and replace that parts I bet you'll be well into $2000.00 .
I don't care what anyone says, you are not going to get a good port on all thoes parts using sand paper and your fingers at your kitchen table. If you are going to do that just get some lapping compound and a drill and do your own valve job too.
If you are not going to remove the heads your self and after the parts ie seals, valve seals,gaskets, labor of the machine shop, and labor to remove and replace that parts I bet you'll be well into $2000.00 .
I don't care what anyone says, you are not going to get a good port on all thoes parts using sand paper and your fingers at your kitchen table. If you are going to do that just get some lapping compound and a drill and do your own valve job too.
09-15-2010, 11:58 AM
#57
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The issue with Bisimoto cams is the hardening process they use. They need to be oil hardened O2 grade after machining. Bisi uses iron-nitrate, which can't put up with the pressure from the rocker arms. They wont last.
09-16-2010, 08:02 AM
#59
lol..
so I was told it'd take 2 weeks and roughly 1000 to take my car and port an polish everything.
Thats a pretty long vacation.
Something tells me this isn't going to happen as soon as I had hoped.
May just move on to suspension for now.
when I hit 100000miles and need a valve adjustment then I may go for it
so I was told it'd take 2 weeks and roughly 1000 to take my car and port an polish everything.
Thats a pretty long vacation.
Something tells me this isn't going to happen as soon as I had hoped.
May just move on to suspension for now.
when I hit 100000miles and need a valve adjustment then I may go for it
09-16-2010, 10:02 AM
#60
TQ > MPG
Why do you want the highest untuned hp? That seems really backwards. Just do full boltons and a tune, I'll bet you'll be much happier. And if you want 260whp it'd be much easier to do it with a 6 speed swap.
09-16-2010, 10:08 AM
#61
If you havn't done suspension yet then definately do that first.
Adding more power will be really pricey no matter what route you go except maybe nitrous or just tuning with bolt ons. 3.5 to 3.6 build with all the parts and labor will easily run over 4 grand. Then you have to find a shop or set aside a week or 2 to drive to Pauls and spend money on hotels etc.
Supercharger is a little easier to do, but almost impossible to find a used one. If you do find a used one most are for the Accord, and you will need to buy a new inlet elbow and a few other misc parts that according to comptech will be 300-400 more. Then you still need to buy new battery, fuel pump, emanage blue etc. If you want to run more boost you need to buy high boost pulley, new belts, etc. This starts adding up also to 3k plus after install and getting all the parts. Then if you want to tune add in more money. Also don't expect this to go smooth with no issues because most ppl seem to have some issues when trying to up the boost.
Then on top of all this you are still stuck with a heavy front wheel drive car. From what I have seen tthe supercharger didn't really help much in the 1/4 mile times for the cl. I believe the supercharger on stock boost took 2 or 3 tenths off the non supercharged time. It will show the most difference in highway passing etc, still cant hook up from a stop but would be alot of fun to have still.
Adding more power will be really pricey no matter what route you go except maybe nitrous or just tuning with bolt ons. 3.5 to 3.6 build with all the parts and labor will easily run over 4 grand. Then you have to find a shop or set aside a week or 2 to drive to Pauls and spend money on hotels etc.
Supercharger is a little easier to do, but almost impossible to find a used one. If you do find a used one most are for the Accord, and you will need to buy a new inlet elbow and a few other misc parts that according to comptech will be 300-400 more. Then you still need to buy new battery, fuel pump, emanage blue etc. If you want to run more boost you need to buy high boost pulley, new belts, etc. This starts adding up also to 3k plus after install and getting all the parts. Then if you want to tune add in more money. Also don't expect this to go smooth with no issues because most ppl seem to have some issues when trying to up the boost.
Then on top of all this you are still stuck with a heavy front wheel drive car. From what I have seen tthe supercharger didn't really help much in the 1/4 mile times for the cl. I believe the supercharger on stock boost took 2 or 3 tenths off the non supercharged time. It will show the most difference in highway passing etc, still cant hook up from a stop but would be alot of fun to have still.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
emailnatec
5G TLX Tires, Wheels & Suspension
29
09-28-2018 04:27 PM
soupi
2G TSX Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
14
11-15-2015 11:15 AM
