Hello,

Is the instrument cluster on the Type S lit up uniformly at night?

I bought my car used and I've noticed the gauges are not all the same brightness. The tach is kind of dim on the redline side, and the fuel and temperature gauges are also dim (but nothing is completely dark).

I know some of my console bulbs are out (trip meter reset button and clock). I would like to change them all out at the same time, but I've looked at exploded diagrams and I can't tell where the gauge light bulbs are or what size they are.

 

There are five 12V 3W bulbs in the instrument panel; my guess is that a one or two are out on that one side... You'll have to remove the instrument panel to get to them. Hopefully there's a number printed on the bulbs so you can cross-reference that number with a replacement. If there is no number, you're gonna have to measure the bulb's and the base's dimensions to figure out what to get.... I found this website that should help you:

http://www.autolumination.com/visual_bulb_finder.html

For the clock, it's a 0.95W bulb, but check No. 9 (7.5A) fuse under the driver's side of the dash first... I have no clue about the Trip A/B, but if you pull that out (while you're checking your instrument panel), I'm sure there's gonna be some small twist-locks on the back of the switch....

I hope this helps!!!!

 

Do the dark spots get more noticeable when you turn the rheostat all the way to the right?

My clock illumination is gone. I feel like there's a void there when I drive at night . Do I need one of these .95 w bulbs? Does that mean I gotta remove the entire dash?

Yes, mine is lit up uniformly at night and all the illumination changes accordingly by adjusting the rheostat (with the exception of the clock).

 

To get to the clock bulb, yes....you're gonna have to take the instrument panel off...

 

instrument panel has tight ass clearance on the wiring harnesses. so don't be yanking it off. pop it off and slowly work your way through them.. i think there is 4-5..

mines gone 2 times already. POS

 

Probably have a weak/bad bulb or 2. My clock light and criuse master indicator were out. I took the dash beazel out (per instuctins on a forum on here somewhere), and decided once i got into it to replace all the bulbs in dash controls as well as guage cluster. Probably a good idea, as several of the cluster bulbs were starting to blacken. I bought all 41 bulbs at acura to the tune of $150 (with body shop discount). OUCH! But I should not have to go into the dash again anytime soon. (Hpoefully)

 

41 bulbs!!!!! hollly shniKEYS

 

Is there a way to see beforehand the part #s for all of these bulbs?

I would like to order them and replace them all at once when the dash it out, but I haven't been able to find part #s anywhere on AcuraOEMPart's exploded diagrams.

 

I had the fuel & oil temp lights go out on me last year.. I used the tried-and-true slap the dash method and they haven't given me trouble since.

 

I'd highly recommend replacing ALL illumination bulbs with LEDs instead. I have all my bulbs converted and generally keep the dimmer almost all the way down and 6000k looks awesome!

 

Yung, wondering what led bulbs you used? Looking to do the same

 

Well, factory cluster illumination uses two different wattages. Theres the 1.5W and the 3W mini bulbs. The LEDs I use are from either Radio Shack and Fry's Electronics (BIG electronics store here in Dallas) and depending on what the actual indicator colors are I choose the LED specifically in that color. For instance, a blue LED for the high beam indicator. Or a green LED for turn signal indicators. This gives really intense and colorful displays...looks great! Anywho, I use 20mah LEDs and solder them into place because that ensures long life and no connectivity loss. It's actually quite simple with a soldering gun (precision tipped) and small low heat solder. Just remember, the short wire of the LED is the ground. They will not operate in reverse polarity. Almost all the bulbs share a common power but there are a few that you must use a volt/ohm meter in order to determine which side is power or ground. It's well worth the time invested. Hit me up if you need an help or wiring diagrams and I'll help in any way I can. If need be, I can even reference wiring diagrams with powers and grounds and email them to you...that would simplify things.

 

lol i had my d5 light go out on me... gave the ol dash a good WHAMMMM and she's brighter than ever before!! lol so jokes

i never thought blunt force would actually solve a problem but damn was i glad to be wrong on that one

 

Thats exactly what I meant by connectivity issues. The bulb relies literally on a 32g wire bent towards the board to collect an adequate power and ground. Soldering these wires from the LED solves that issue. :-)

 

Let me know if your still looking for the part numbers for the gauge cluster bulbs. Or any other bulbs for that matter.

 

Are these just oem bulb part #'s or aftermarket leds? The led's need to definitely be soldered in?

 

I'm referring to aftermarket LEDs, yes. As mentioned, they can be purchased at Radio Shack. The LEDs is use are standard LEDs that are generally used in PCBs (printed circuit boards) and have no base or socket...just the LED itself with two wires coming out of it. There are several companies out there that do manufacture OEM fit style LEDs that have the same base as the regular bulbs our clusters come with but they be on the expensive side and unless you read reviews you never know what quality the LED is. The style of socket out clusters use is referred to as "neo wedge".

There's a company called "V-LEDS" that have some very high quality LED bulbs and I'd recommend looking there for OEM fit style bulbs. Steer clear from the cheap, no name LEDs as they will flicker and not last very long at all...trust me.

 

Yes I would like to know the OEM part numbers for the bulbs so I can order all of the ones I need before I take apart the dash.

I'm not doing the LED conversion although it sounds neat.

 

Ref#_____Part#
001 - 35505-SA5-003
002 - 35505-SJ4-003
014 - 78181-SS0-003
015 - 78181-S0K-A21
016 - 78181-S30-003