lateralus

cls6

two weeks ago had a check engine light pop on for a p0335 code.. all the traditional symptoms running rough wont rev past 2k etc..

pop off the timing cover and replace the crank position sensor and sub harness as it looked rough.. erase code and drive around for 2 days and while driving the car rpms drop and car goes back into limp mode with the same p0335 code.

any suggestions on where else to look ?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
The helm's indicates, that for the cls6, p0335 CRK sensor A (circuit malfunction) and p0336 CRK sensor A (range / performance).

Adam Kovach had a p0336 he changed the crankshaft pulley side senor and had no joy. Then he 'gambled' on changing the CRK sensor B, transmission side, and found joy. Crazy as it sounds, even without the proper codes for the CRK sensor B (p0385; p0386), he changed the Crk sensor B and it worked for him.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-p...-p0336-957910/

FYI, people have used 02-06 RSX - 37500-PNB-003 because 37506-PGE-A12 for the CLS6 has been discontinued.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-p...ilable-960248/

Good Luck!

lateralus

Thank you Zeta... i got a long weekend so im gonna be tinkering with this tomorrow.. nice i have a spare rsx crank sensor from my old car will try this in the morning and will update..

lateralus

just a thought I had.. on my old sti i had a p0335 code replaced sensor and same code persisted ... tho with the sti it would crank but not start.. stupidly it ended up being the battery was near its end..

in the acura i can still start the car with the code present just drivability is garbage..

in my cls I have a diehard battery thats a few years old now.. I just gave it a quick test still read 12.6 with a cheapie multi meter.. will drive it down by batteries plus in the morning to do a load test just to scratch it off the list..

lateralus

I know a lot of folks ask questions on the forum but seldom update..

Drove down to Batteries Plus to get a battery test ( test showed it was only producing half the cca) got a new battery and since the battery was disconnected it erased the code. Started up drove for 10 mins and the tach starts to drop pulled over to the side of the road to read the code. P0335 and P0336. Limped car home and looked for my spare RSX CRK.

Thank you so much zeta If you didn't tell me about the CRK B on the trans side I would have been pulling out chunks of hair lol. Took off the CRK B and the pins inside the connection looked like they had christmas trees growing off them there was so much oxidation on the sensor side. Examined the harness side and depinned/cleaned off the terminals as best I could with a tiny file/baking soda/qtip...
Put everything back together with the RSX CRK. Started right up no lumpy idle. So far I've put maybe 50 miles 3 hard drive cycles around town. Crosses fingers I hope the demons are gone lol.

I would have been chasing demons forever as zeta mentioned I never threw any CRK B codes only the CRK A codes.

This is my second cls6 I picked up with a bad engine ( t-belt broke) swapped in a j35a3 with all the cam n back plate /crank sensors n harness to make it a manual engine along with the j32a2 camshafts. Car ripped for 5 months before this CRK B nightmare lol.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Nice job!

In addition, thanks for the thorough and detailed update on what you experienced / found and how you fixed it.

For some strange reason when the CLS6 throws a CRK sensor A code p0335 and/or p0336, the end user, in the absence of CRK sensor B codes needs to check that sensor as well, anyway.

I was not aware you had swapped in a J35A3. You basically have the equivalent of a S/C'ed J32A2 with gobs more torque. If I ever grenade my S/Ced J32A2, a J35A3 goes in without hesitation.

lateralus

lol now on my other cls6 I had a p0335/p0336 code .. after going through this with my other cls6 ... immediately tested sensor A behind the crank pulley and the sub harness checks out.. go and check out the sensor B shows its dead.. IF YOU CAN ALWAYS BUY an oem sensor... lol i went through three sensors from my local auto parts store every one was a dud.. would install it real quick start and flip a p0335/p0336 code walk back in to return it.. ordered an OEM one from one of the acura parts wholesaler sites... boom starts like a champ no codes no lights..

a big FU to whatever sensor the auto parts store was peddling lol..

cliff notes buy an oem sensor

whitetiger5

That's my rule. Any mission critical components: buy oem. stuff like brake pads, rotors, bushings those can be non-oem and your car can still get from A to B if they aren't working right. ignition coils, timing belts, some sensors: don't mess around. our cars are old enough where they're paid off and an occasional hit to the wallet for the sensor is not that big of a deal.

thoiboi

Same here

lateralus

you are definitely right about critical items.. tbelt/water pump/coils are a definite critical item..

impatience got me this time.. as it happened on a friday afternoon and the local honda/acura parts dept had already closed.. go to local auto parts and they have three different variants one for 30 bucks one for 60 bucks and another for 80. I figure the pricier one of the three would be "closest" to oem lol.. what are the chances all three didn't work lol.. think the manager of the store thought i was trolling em ..

ordered one off one of the acura whole sale sites and got the part on tuesday fired up on first turn no more limp mode..

now that I know the rsxs crank sensor will work for our sensor b ( trans side) its not so nerve wracking as the our OE part had been discontinued now for a bit..

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Past experience has shown me that if you are in a pinch, like on a weekend, and have to 'last' resort to the 'local' part stores it's always best to have an OEM part # for THEM to reference. I have met quite a few that were often thicker than planks. With the OEM # they can usually isolate, on there system, whether or not they have an equivalent or not worth taking a chance on.