I thought there was a link to a vid of the actuator in action in the FAQ?

 

Thanks for the help civic!
aznboi... I can't find video but should not be so hard to find.
Once again... love my car and love this site!

 

the link is broken now, but i found Chad's FAQ in archive.org

the link to pics of the actuator:
http://web.archive.org/web/200708280...cura/faq/pics/

The link to a video clip of the actuator in action is now broken in the FAQ.

 

Would a sound come from the rear head?
I am sure it is coming from that. What else could make the sound SPECIFICALLY come at 4100?

 

What sort of sound is it? Theres plenty of moving parts in the head.

Do you hear it when the car is stationary and you rev up, or only when driving?

 

stationary and when I am driving. The sound only comes EXACTLY at 4100 when the RPMS DROP. While it goes up the sound doesn't come on at 4100 but only when it comes down.

 

Put your hand on the actuator and rev up and let the rpms drop. Do you "feel" the noise when you hear it?

 

ill try that later on today and let you know

 

Just fixed this yesterday, holy fack what a difference this made. My car feels like new powerwise again, I'm in love...

But seriously people if this isn't working on your car it should definetly be a top priority.

 

Get on highway, pedal to the metal. Should be pretty obvious if it's working or not.

 

Or unplug the solenoid and see if there is a difference.

 

checked mine and it is not turning... if fuse is ok should I just buy a new IMRC valve motor or is there something else I should check before getting part? what could be the disadvantage if I tie it open? loss of power on bottom? less efficient mpg? thanks in advance

 

you will lose bottom end power for sure and iirc it will affect gas milage

 

tanx nersh, the important question really is: if cable is ok and fuse ok... is there anything else I should check for before I go ahead spending the $$$$ to buy new part??

 

The common problem with this part has nothing to do with the fuse or the cable its the part itself it isn't made very well and therefore it fails after time. Mine failed once and I replaced it, the part cost about anywhere from $80-$125 depending if you can find a coupon code for some of the part stores.

 

the thing that fails is the gears inside because honda cheaped out and went with plastic gears, I took mine apart and sure enough broken tooth on one of the gears

 

tanx again nersh and CL-P passing me bye

 

hello again, last question about IMRC, sorry to keep reviving this thread. If actator was in working conditions and I unplug it and apply 12 volts from the battery to the terminals on the actuator: it should move / turn? is it 12 volts thar are fed to that motor? should I just forget about any further testing and get a new actuator? (does not move at all when i rev up betwen 4K /5K RPM). All the best!

 

If its not moving its most likely no good. Just change it.

For the longest time my IMRC would make this funny sound every time i turn the ignition to battery. It moves and everything but only when i turn the ignition and at 4100 rpm when it is coming down it would make this odd sound. And GAS MILEAGE IS CRAP! I only get like 220/tank.

I am placing mine on order this weekend.

which leads me to my question... where should I buy my replacement part? I called Acura and they said they only have ONE in the nation and its in Dallas.

 

Don't waste your time this part is notorious for failing so if it's not working now then just get a new one.

BTW its I don't have a CL-P I have a CL-S the p in my screen name is only because the word pass starts with it.

 

Hello, just wanted to thank Chopsie for posting this thread... even though it is from 6 years ago! I read it by chance and what do you know... my IMRC was not working! Got new one and replaced... WAO!!! big difference.... encourage everyone to check it from time to time as post title says. Took old one appart and the plastic gear had just 1 teeth broken (enough for it not to work at all). Don´t understand meaning of those damm plastic gears connecting to steel or bronze gears (same case with the power window mechanism, motor has strong metal gear and connects to shitty plastic). All the best, PANAMARED

 

it was obviously a poor design since the damn thing goes out on every car at least once...

 

It is very easy to check, WITH YOUR RIGHT FOOT!

 

over 100K on my car now and it still works just fine. I rarely go above 3K on the tach but when i put the foot down i can hear it open and the car takes off like it usually does.

Still rolling on the tires that I put on the car at 44K

 

Wow, good for you man