DIY changing brake pads

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Old 01-16-2007 | 11:25 AM
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welphd's Avatar
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From: NJ
DIY changing brake pads

Hi guys, my 03 CL is 69000 miles now. I don't hear brake noise, but I plan to change front pads soon. Is it easy to DIY? I have only changed oil before. Anyone can kindly give me a link to a good, easy to understand procedure?
Thanks!
Old 01-16-2007 | 12:28 PM
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TN-CLS's Avatar
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Real easy. Jack it up. take off the tire, remove two caliper bolts, remove caliper, remove pads, use large C-clamp and old pad over piston to press it flush with the caliper, install new pads in grooves on calpier bracket, Re-install caliper, put wheels back on, repeat on all four corners. Changing pads is the same on almost all cars. Take your time. Be sure to spray brake parts cleaner on all surfaces you touched to remove any dirt grease or grime you may have gotten on the rotors or new pads.... Have fun... working on your car should be enjoyable
Old 01-16-2007 | 04:48 PM
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pits200's Avatar
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Originally Posted by TN-CLS
Real easy. Jack it up. take off the tire, remove two caliper bolts, remove caliper, remove pads, use large C-clamp and old pad over piston to press it flush with the caliper, install new pads in grooves on calpier bracket, Re-install caliper, put wheels back on, repeat on all four corners. Changing pads is the same on almost all cars. Take your time. Be sure to spray brake parts cleaner on all surfaces you touched to remove any dirt grease or grime you may have gotten on the rotors or new pads.... Have fun... working on your car should be enjoyable
LOL, i know you just forgot to say it in here. But if he forgets to open the cap on his master cylinder, he is going to push all that air into the system and his brakes are gonna be mush......

Also, lube up the floating pins on the caliper, sometimes these tend to stick and get uneven brake pad wear.
Old 01-16-2007 | 04:51 PM
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CleanCL's Avatar
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if you are just changing the pads, why take off both bolts? just remove the lower one and slide the caliper up and replace the pads. this makes life 10x easier.

also i never heard of taking the top off the master cylinder?
Old 01-16-2007 | 05:59 PM
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TN-CLS's Avatar
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where he hell is the air come from?????????????? no air will get into the brake system, it is a closed circut. the only way air will get into the system is if he messes with the bleader screw. I did brakes at a small garage when i was in college. I would put money on it.
Old 01-16-2007 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TN-CLS
Real easy. Jack it up. take off the tire, remove two caliper bolts, remove caliper, remove pads, use large C-clamp and old pad over piston to press it flush with the caliper, install new pads in grooves on calpier bracket, Re-install caliper, put wheels back on, repeat on all four corners. Changing pads is the same on almost all cars. Take your time. Be sure to spray brake parts cleaner on all surfaces you touched to remove any dirt grease or grime you may have gotten on the rotors or new pads.... Have fun... working on your car should be enjoyable
^^what he said ^^
Old 01-16-2007 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TN-CLS
where he hell is the air come from?????????????? no air will get into the brake system, it is a closed circut. the only way air will get into the system is if he messes with the bleader screw. I did brakes at a small garage when i was in college. I would put money on it.
and i'm pretty sure if you pushe on the brake pedal when the pads and calipers are off and instead of brake fluid you will suck air into the cylinder (brake fluid pushes pads out and when you let go of the brake pedal the cylinder comes back in) and thats when u get air in.
Old 01-16-2007 | 10:04 PM
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randomthought's Avatar
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Never removed the cap when i changed my brakes. Never bled them afterwards and the brakes worked fine for me.
Old 01-17-2007 | 03:39 AM
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I removed the cap just to make it easier to compress the piston. the whole "sucking in air" thing is crap IMO.

I also bough ta really cheap yet effective tool from autozone or somthing. I't ssort of a reverse c clamp. you just turn a knob and it pushed your pistons back in.

also, I'm not sure if this is the case for the second gen CL's, but witht eh first gen's the rear calipers are different than the fronts in that you don't "push" the pistons back in. you twist them. they have two notches at hte edge to stick something in to twist. it's osmething about automatically adjusting e-brake or something. again, not sure if hte second gen's are like that, but just thought I'd give you a heads up.
Old 01-17-2007 | 07:07 AM
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DelawareCLS's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ghost_masterCL
I removed the cap just to make it easier to compress the piston. the whole "sucking in air" thing is crap IMO.

I also bough ta really cheap yet effective tool from autozone or somthing. I't ssort of a reverse c clamp. you just turn a knob and it pushed your pistons back in.

also, I'm not sure if this is the case for the second gen CL's, but witht eh first gen's the rear calipers are different than the fronts in that you don't "push" the pistons back in. you twist them. they have two notches at hte edge to stick something in to twist. it's osmething about automatically adjusting e-brake or something. again, not sure if hte second gen's are like that, but just thought I'd give you a heads up.

2nd Gen is different - basic cylinder like the fronts and not adapter needed to twist it in (pushed straight in). Older Acuras have those twist in rear cylinders (I think my folks' '87 Legend had it).
Old 01-17-2007 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bigmark89
and i'm pretty sure if you pushe on the brake pedal when the pads and calipers are off and instead of brake fluid you will suck air into the cylinder (brake fluid pushes pads out and when you let go of the brake pedal the cylinder comes back in) and thats when u get air in.
If you push the brake pedal while the pads and calipers are off you'll pop the cylinders right out of the caliper. Then you get to replace the fluid, since most of it will now be on the ground!
Old 01-17-2007 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TN-CLS
Real easy. Jack it up. take off the tire, remove two caliper bolts, remove caliper, remove pads, use large C-clamp and old pad over piston to press it flush with the caliper, install new pads in grooves on calpier bracket, Re-install caliper, put wheels back on, repeat on all four corners. Changing pads is the same on almost all cars. Take your time. Be sure to spray brake parts cleaner on all surfaces you touched to remove any dirt grease or grime you may have gotten on the rotors or new pads.... Have fun... working on your car should be enjoyable
Yup, that'll do it. I strongly recommend two additional items.

While the pads are off, and the before you push the pistons back in, carefully clean them thoroughly with the brake cleaner and then apply a VERY light coat of disk brake lube to the outside of the pistons. This will help prevent them from sticking. Also, clean and lube the pins so the caliper can float easily on them.

Those two items will go a long way to avoid uneven and excessive pad wear on your new brakes.
Old 02-16-2007 | 12:38 AM
  #13  
Tabasco's Avatar
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quick question, my brakes are worn out and im changing them this weekend. Just today the brake light would come on and i don't ever touch the e brake. The light would stay on for 5 mins then turn off. Is this normal?
Old 02-16-2007 | 08:51 AM
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I may not be able to answer this as well as other people, but it may be your fluid being low. I have the same problem and I am replacing all rotors and pads today along with the brake fluid. I am hoping that will fix the light.
Old 02-16-2007 | 01:35 PM
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Joe5.0's Avatar
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Yep the brakes are easy as cake. I did mine in under 30 mins.

I didnt take the cap off while compressing the piston and the brakes work fine. Just remember that the brakes wont work for a pump or two. I freaked myself out backing it out of the garage when the pedal went to the floor. Had to pull the e-brake to not hit my Cobra, then go change my pants. lol
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