DEPRESSED!!! 221WHP with SUPERCHARGER!!!???!!!
09-11-2007, 08:29 PM
#123
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Originally Posted by blk2001tlon19s
holy cow those are low #'s. Need to get that done quick. Those #'s are lower then my stock evo dyno #'s.
They are lower than some stock CL-S 6-speed numbers I've seen.
09-11-2007, 08:29 PM
#124
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Originally Posted by New Image
oh yea, one other issue i had was that the car would stall at low speeds, or revving high and then letting it drop back down to idle, the rpms would drop too low and stall the engine.
i pray this fixed it
i pray this fixed it
IAC valve adjustment or PVC/vacuum leak.
09-11-2007, 08:30 PM
#125
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Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
What you need to do is take you car to a place that can read ignition advance/retardation and see if timing is being pulled, because that will cause major power loss.
09-11-2007, 08:59 PM
#129
THE J35A2...
Originally Posted by SIRSIG
first off, you have to fixed the misfiring problem first before you install the SC
i think 2.93v is about right on your ESM, so i dont think it's your ESM. check your TPS and other sensor, see if they're plugged-in wrong. Coilpacks are known to go bad. you can check them by unplugging the connection while the engine is running. Adjusting the valves aren't hard but time consuming, just make sure do not over tighten it. I'm pretty sure you know some of what i'm talking about...
i think 2.93v is about right on your ESM, so i dont think it's your ESM. check your TPS and other sensor, see if they're plugged-in wrong. Coilpacks are known to go bad. you can check them by unplugging the connection while the engine is running. Adjusting the valves aren't hard but time consuming, just make sure do not over tighten it. I'm pretty sure you know some of what i'm talking about...
09-11-2007, 09:04 PM
#130
THE J35A2...
09-11-2007, 09:39 PM
#133
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by New Image
im so anxious to fire her up. wish i could with everyting disassembled
09-12-2007, 03:11 AM
#137
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dude, you said it yourself. you have misfire on all cylinders. a valve adjust isnt going to fix a 6 cylinder misfire. at least im pretty sure it wont. my bet would be that some of your valves are bent. no way would you be getting full benefit of your SC with bent valves
09-12-2007, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
Do those scan tools actually give you that info? Guess im used to the cheaper ones, that or I just forgot the ones Autozone gives out can do that.
Yes! Some only show DTCs but many are designed to show a real time readout of many engine sensors.
merging threads now...
09-12-2007, 01:04 PM
#141
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Ok, well i finished last nite and started the car up. it was pretty smooth and quiet and then after it warmed up the valves are ticking very loud. I assume they went from being very tight fairly loose. I aint about to tear it apart again just to re-do it. The power issues are still there. Power surges after 5000 rpm, b4 that it feels like a slush box.
Do those scan tools read timing? and if so, would I know if my timing is correct?
Do those scan tools read timing? and if so, would I know if my timing is correct?
09-12-2007, 01:46 PM
#143
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yes i adjusted to factory spec but now they tick. i adjusted it on the conservative side being that they were so tight to begin with. lemme record it and upload a video on here.
09-12-2007, 02:32 PM
#144
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Video
09-12-2007, 03:20 PM
#145
That car is jacked! Uninstall everything & dump it. Start again.
Or take all mods off get it back to stock & then fix it right then add the mods back on. It's hard to troubleshoot your problems with the blower & mods on there. At this point it all guess work. You need a base to start with.
Or take all mods off get it back to stock & then fix it right then add the mods back on. It's hard to troubleshoot your problems with the blower & mods on there. At this point it all guess work. You need a base to start with.
09-12-2007, 03:29 PM
#146
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yea, I have this feeling the misshift caused all of these problems. the wierd thing is that I thought bent valves tick. but they werent. but now they do after I adjusted them to factory specs?
09-12-2007, 04:09 PM
#148
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Wow, that engine sounds fukk'd, definitely not normal J-series ticking. Wow, I'm so suprised...you seem to take such good care of your rides...good luck, man.
09-12-2007, 05:01 PM
#149
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just took it to jotech motorsports. they said to readjust the valves. theyre too loose. so looks like im back to the drawing board.
ESM connections are fine.
ESM connections are fine.
09-12-2007, 06:26 PM
#150
Blown is Best
Before you go through the effort of readjusting the valves, I would do a compression test and leakdown test to find out if you've got a motor to work with.
09-12-2007, 06:47 PM
#152
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ive been doing research, and I find that misfire codes on all cylinders could be from a bad cat.?
if so, im going to kick my ass if thats the case. i suppose to disconnect the cat and see how it runs?
if so, im going to kick my ass if thats the case. i suppose to disconnect the cat and see how it runs?
09-12-2007, 06:59 PM
#154
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misfire in cylinders is also caused by bent valves. they could just tick when they are adjusted to spec. i know a few people that have cl/tl that have bent there valves. reving to 9k is usually going to have some sort of bad results with your valves. bentvalves are my bet.
09-12-2007, 07:31 PM
#155
You likely do have bent valves, but they are not causing your power problems. This is from experience cause I had bent valves in my 1st 6mt CLS. Wasn't me it was a demo car when I bought it & didn't know any better. Fixed under warranty with 1200 miles on it.
If bent valves were causing your problems they would need to be so bent normal driving before the blower would have giving you problems. Bent vales on the CL from my experience creates a erratic idle feel in the exhaust at idle. Almost like a stalling feeling. You'd be able to hear it in the exhaust from the rear as well. It would also make your valves tick a little more or less.(hence why your adjustment to specs created more tick) these are all problems you are having, but as I said the car would not be drivable or you WOULD notice it before the charger went on.
The other problem you mentioned about revving & then letting go of the gas the rpm's dropping & the car stalling shounds like a dirt or bad IAC sensor. I also had this problem. A new IAC valve fixed that.
Advice... re-adjust the valves, get a new IAC sensor, O2 sensor,(bad one causes misfires) & check your coil packs & spark plugs. Do a compression check on all cylinders, & then report back.
If bent valves were causing your problems they would need to be so bent normal driving before the blower would have giving you problems. Bent vales on the CL from my experience creates a erratic idle feel in the exhaust at idle. Almost like a stalling feeling. You'd be able to hear it in the exhaust from the rear as well. It would also make your valves tick a little more or less.(hence why your adjustment to specs created more tick) these are all problems you are having, but as I said the car would not be drivable or you WOULD notice it before the charger went on.
The other problem you mentioned about revving & then letting go of the gas the rpm's dropping & the car stalling shounds like a dirt or bad IAC sensor. I also had this problem. A new IAC valve fixed that.
Advice... re-adjust the valves, get a new IAC sensor, O2 sensor,(bad one causes misfires) & check your coil packs & spark plugs. Do a compression check on all cylinders, & then report back.
09-12-2007, 08:15 PM
#157
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to clarify something
the feeler gauges i used were .008 / .203 for intake and .012 / .305 for exhaust
did i use the correct gap gauge? this whole conversion thing is confusing me
the feeler gauges i used were .008 / .203 for intake and .012 / .305 for exhaust
did i use the correct gap gauge? this whole conversion thing is confusing me
09-12-2007, 08:35 PM
#159
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What did you use to check the voltage on the ESM?
You are going about this in kind of a round-about way. You need a diagnostic tool to check the timing and the MAP voltage.
If all the things that you feel are causing your problems are truly the culprit then your car would have been as slow as a 4-cyl Accord before you installed the blower.
I still think it's timing and ESM related.
I ran with 92k miles on fouled plugs at the track and still put down a 13.6 @105 MPH.
You are going about this in kind of a round-about way. You need a diagnostic tool to check the timing and the MAP voltage.
If all the things that you feel are causing your problems are truly the culprit then your car would have been as slow as a 4-cyl Accord before you installed the blower.
I still think it's timing and ESM related.
I ran with 92k miles on fouled plugs at the track and still put down a 13.6 @105 MPH.