fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

As I said I had 3 of them They all did it. Something in the car. It doesn't do it all the time, once in a while under certain extream RPM shifts into 2nd & 3rd Fast.

I have the new Acura fluid in there. Have had it for months.
It's no problem for me.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Add increased clutch pedal vibration to my dislike list.
I feel it in the pedal at the moment before clutch engagement. Almost like I can feel the flywheel turning.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Acura obviously put this in the car for a reason. You cant compare our CDD to BMWS like in that link posted, they are 2 completely different systems. If your feeling so many negatives from taking it out, just put it back in. See how you like it with the upgraded SS line. I love the way mine feels. Engadges perfectly, no grinds, very smooth shifting perfect clutch pedal feeling, not too light, not too heavy. Im glad i left my CDD in the car.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Try the GM stuff im tellin you..I Had the new acura fluid too..it was ok..but the gm is so much better. I noticed an improvement as soon as i put it in. If you search, almost everybody prefers this fluid over acuras.

Allout

That's to be expected. You'll feel more through the clutch pedal than before because you're in direct connection with the clutch slave. The slave will react more immediately with movement in the clutch pedal and vice versa.

I've been happy with the results on clutch engagement but do know what you mean about additional vibration through the pedal without the CCD (Clutch DAMPENING Device)

rondog

iTrader: (1)

Offtopic a bit, aeta, since you used those spacers, the 1mm ones on the SC allen bolts, has the belt jumped anymore?
I'm having the same problem and considering the same solution.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

rondog:

I would hear a clicking noise upon each cold start in the morning right after I had the blower installed and could not figure out (for the life of me!) what was causing it. Strangely, the noise would disappear shortly thereafter as the car warmed up.

Then one day, once again, upon a cold start, it began to click and would not stop. I thought, holy sh@t what the hell is going on under there, that's how loud it was. I quickly pulled the hood latch and jumped out of the car and actually observed the belt climbing the S/C pulley. Man, the belt was jumping to the inside (over to the right as you face the car) like crazy!

When I witnessed the jumping of the belt, I was overjoyed because I knew immediately what I had to do to fix it.

I skinned the cat this way because I did not want to pull the S/C pulley , so I instead utilized the small washer fix to adjust, by that dam 1mm, the whole S/C unit to the right at the snout bracket, thus bringing the whole S/C unit over to the right by 1mm, and subsequently aligning the pulley with the alt. pulley.

(I had readily available the smaller washers rather then a large washer that would be needed at the S/C pulley end.)

It has not clicked ever since and I've had no problems thus far (belt jumping) with +45K miles on the blower.

Sorry for the long post.
Peace

TRINI-2-DE-BONE

Well I got mine in the mail today. My part # is HNC-015 thats for the CL-s. I was about to order the 04-06 accord but I saw the CL part listed so I got that. What was your reson for getting the 04 -06 accord line instead, may be a dumb Question.

rp_guy

at the time there wasn't a product specifically for the cl-s. i'm sure they're all similar, if not the same.

TRINI-2-DE-BONE

I am lost here guys HELPPPPPPPP whats the CDD and what will it do for me. Sorry if I am plain old dumb. Just trying to learn. Also I got the bushings for inside the hood on the clutch side and for the shifter.

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

cdd: clutch damper something.. lol

removing it will get a more crisp shift, but it's harder on your clutch i believe, read this whole thread it has been discussed.

as far as the ss line, i ordered on the phone and went to pick it up since i was local. they make it on the spot and the different applications are for length mostly...

it's in the engine bay, on the driver side... you have to look a bit deeper for it.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

I'll give an update to this..............

I put mine back to stock. Including the stock line. I saw zero performance/shifting difference, & didn't like the added vibrations.

TRINI-2-DE-BONE

So when I remove it the Cdd, do I have to put something else there. Tell me exactly how this is done pls. Your step by step. And what vibrates and is the vibrating that bad.

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

i noticed sometimes when i shift to third it vibrates.. maybe a bad shift by me....

you remove the cdd and this other line, and you replace both by putting in the new ss ine. just pop the hood and look at it and i think you can figure it out.

TRINI-2-DE-BONE

How long is this line, cause the one I have its as long as a ruler 12 cm. Is that long enough. And this is the same ss line I just got right hnc-015

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

The line is the same for all acura/honda's Yeah the line is about 12" long.

You need to look at it. I had the same confusion & then after I looked at it I figured it out.

The clutch line goes into a "plate" then back to the master cylinder. All your doing is bypassing this "plate" with the new SS line. It's not hard at all.

The vibrations I felt through the clutch pedal in all gears. I did not like it. It didn't feel right to me. Even cars that don't have a CDD felt smoother. The damper is there to eliminate these vibrations so I put it back.

I thought the car felt better in shifting, but after some drive time it didn't. Likely the result of bleeding the line & not the actual dampener bypass.

phillyfresh

I know I'm bringing this back from the dead, I just wanted to say THANK YOU for this post. This mod was awesome! I like to shift hard and fast, and I thought the clutch was going bad due to slippage (especially between 1-2). I was used to a clutch cable in my Maverick that took about 2-3X the force to push the pedal down, and you could really feel the clutch and actuate it precisely.

This made it so I could shift faster, unwanted slippage is gone (better clutch life from that for sure), and I can actuate the clutch FAR better. I'm surprised theres so many mixed results with this, I didn't even put the SS line on, I just deleted the CDD and put in fresh DOT 4. I may go stainless in the future, but I highly recommend anyone with a 6 speed do this!

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad it helped improve those quick 1-2 shifts.
Here are a couple of pictures of the steel clutch line location where the damper used to live:





It helps when utilizing one of these.

phillyfresh

Looks good!

Man that CL must fly with a supercharger! Pretty awesome looking too