03 CL-S Clutch Replace
03 CL-S Clutch Replace
It is about time to replace my clutch. I was wondering what would be the best clutch to use. I drive pretty aggressive and do plan some healthy upgrades through this summer. I am looking at a stage 3 type clutch. I had one in my Mustang and it was a daily driver also. I am looking for sugestions as far as brands and places to order it from.
I am also thinking about doing the clutch myself. I have done many in RWD vehicles and a few in FWD cars as well. How bad is the R&R on the CL-S?
Also, if I decide not to do it where is a good place to have it done around Atlanta and what will I expect to pay in labor?
Thanks for all of your responses.
Lefty
I am also thinking about doing the clutch myself. I have done many in RWD vehicles and a few in FWD cars as well. How bad is the R&R on the CL-S?
Also, if I decide not to do it where is a good place to have it done around Atlanta and what will I expect to pay in labor?
Thanks for all of your responses.
Lefty
i would stick with oem clutch their longevity is usually more than 100k mile which you wont get on the aftermarket one... there was a memeber with over 200k and stock clutch. I bought the car with 50k miles and clutch started to sleep at 62k miles, im at the 100k now and i have to say i drive hard and got some bolt ones and clutch grabs nicely. you can resurface the flywheel but there wont be many places that they will do it because its dual mass. i say proper break in period about 750-1000 miles will make it run even longer...
you can mod the clutch line removing clutch dumper device and mod slave cyl and add ss clutch line
this car is my daily and i want to clutch last as long as possible
this link will help. if you have a lift you can do it yourself but the hardest part is to remove tranny and you will need minimum 1-2 ppl to help you with that
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/first-glance-6-speed-clutch-combinations-770172/
you can mod the clutch line removing clutch dumper device and mod slave cyl and add ss clutch line
this car is my daily and i want to clutch last as long as possible
this link will help. if you have a lift you can do it yourself but the hardest part is to remove tranny and you will need minimum 1-2 ppl to help you with that
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/first-glance-6-speed-clutch-combinations-770172/
Thanks for the response. I am leaning toward the stage 2 or 3 still. The OEM is not really rated for the HP that the car will have by the end of the year. I hate to have to replace it again at that point. To me that would be spending the money twice. I plan to have around 300 - 400 HP which is well over what the OEM clutch is rated for.
On my Stangs I always used a Center Force Stage 3. They always lasted and performed well. I don't know if they make a clutch kit for my car or not. I will check Monday and see.
I have acess and ability to do the R&R myself. It is the time I am short on. The clutch slipped once on a launch and spun it pretty good. It has not done it since. It does have a shimmy (very slight) at take off from time to time. I bled the slave sylinder and it has not slipped since. I have just purchased the car and have no idea about clutch wear up to this point. It has 75,000 miles on it at this time.
I will probably pay to get the clutch done just so I am free to do other things. I might get the t-belt and wp done at the same time.
Again ... Thanks for your response.
I welcome any other input as well.
Lefty
On my Stangs I always used a Center Force Stage 3. They always lasted and performed well. I don't know if they make a clutch kit for my car or not. I will check Monday and see.
I have acess and ability to do the R&R myself. It is the time I am short on. The clutch slipped once on a launch and spun it pretty good. It has not done it since. It does have a shimmy (very slight) at take off from time to time. I bled the slave sylinder and it has not slipped since. I have just purchased the car and have no idea about clutch wear up to this point. It has 75,000 miles on it at this time.
I will probably pay to get the clutch done just so I am free to do other things. I might get the t-belt and wp done at the same time.
Again ... Thanks for your response.
I welcome any other input as well.
Lefty
There is no stage 2 worth getting for our car. Im running the Clutchmasters Stage 3 in mine.
Stay away from "SPEC" brand clutches, they are just painted OEM parts. Also, alot of the parts on our car is interchangeable with the Accord. The flywheel isn't one of them. Youre stuck with OEM or AASCO (if you want lightweight).
Stay away from "SPEC" brand clutches, they are just painted OEM parts. Also, alot of the parts on our car is interchangeable with the Accord. The flywheel isn't one of them. Youre stuck with OEM or AASCO (if you want lightweight).
Thanks .. I will ckeck on the Clutchmasters stage 3. It sounds more like what I am in the market for. My car is stock at the moment.... My cars never stay that way long. Any recomendations on upgrades to start with. I thought about CAI, Headers and exaust, Will have a SC this year at some point as well.
Your not going to make 300-400HP in this car without a ton of work. Even then you'll only be on the 300 side.
I'm pushing 250 to the wheels & the stock clutch has held up fine, just passed 102K. I drive like I stole the car.
This isn't a mustang.
I'm pushing 250 to the wheels & the stock clutch has held up fine, just passed 102K. I drive like I stole the car.
This isn't a mustang.
Last edited by fuzzy02CLS; Apr 18, 2011 at 08:23 AM.
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300 would be fine with me. I was thinking you could build the bottom end to hold a little better and go with some pretty serious boost. I would like to see the car in the 11's
There is no stage 2 worth getting for our car. Im running the Clutchmasters Stage 3 in mine.
Stay away from "SPEC" brand clutches, they are just painted OEM parts. Also, alot of the parts on our car is interchangeable with the Accord. The flywheel isn't one of them. Youre stuck with OEM or AASCO (if you want lightweight).
Stay away from "SPEC" brand clutches, they are just painted OEM parts. Also, alot of the parts on our car is interchangeable with the Accord. The flywheel isn't one of them. Youre stuck with OEM or AASCO (if you want lightweight).
and CALL up clutchmasters directly, and talk to Jose, and get the "ceramic" (iirc that's what it was lol), the "normal" stage 3 did not last for me
but they do make a better one though, it's like a 9-puck design on the friction material itself, but a full backing plate/center section though
and i have seen clutches only last 30k miles, but on the exact same model of car, with a different driver, they get 150k easily
if you want SC, talk to Pual (NVA-AV6), he should be making a M90 supercharger for our cars (instead of the comptech one with only a M62 one
I will just see where it winds up at. I thought about a NSX set up as well. As time will tell I build things a little over board from most people. I garduated from UTI Hot Rod Mag. Performance Technology. I built Jeeps for a while as well as raced 4 cyl. Asphault circle track. I am interested in cams for custom apps as well. I don't mind sinking the money in to it to get the desired results. I have just moved and bought the car. It has a few issues that I have to work out before mods come. Plus I must go back to work so my wife does not have to purchase parts for me. lol. Summer will tell the tell on my car...
for holding power YES, but if you still want some driveability though, GOOD LUCK with that (and if you really want just to, go the 4-puck design to hold even more)
I will just see where it winds up at. I thought about a NSX set up as well. As time will tell I build things a little over board from most people. I garduated from UTI Hot Rod Mag. Performance Technology. I built Jeeps for a while as well as raced 4 cyl. Asphault circle track. I am interested in cams for custom apps as well. I don't mind sinking the money in to it to get the desired results. I have just moved and bought the car. It has a few issues that I have to work out before mods come. Plus I must go back to work so my wife does not have to purchase parts for me. lol. Summer will tell the tell on my car...
, so work must be so you have spare money to be able to go blow on your parts, and tools
I have a very understanding wife. She enjoys the whole fast car thing. She and my daughter are usually with me if I go to anything to do with cars.
As far as the daily driver aspect goes.... What most people call a track car I call a real nice Street car. lol
As far as the daily driver aspect goes.... What most people call a track car I call a real nice Street car. lol
Just keep in mind most everything has been thought up & some have been discussed & tried to get the kinda of power out of this car. Remember it's still a FWD car. There are limits you will hit with the platform. It wasn't designed for it.
Also parts are a problem. There's hardly a aftermarket for the car or the engine. It's getting a little better, but nothing near what other cars have out there.
Search the TL side & this side as well as look at both FAQ's. There is some discussion on custom cams, & engine mods. 3.5L builds, & 3.8L builds. These engines are a better option to swap in to get power then trying with the 3.2L.
Also parts are a problem. There's hardly a aftermarket for the car or the engine. It's getting a little better, but nothing near what other cars have out there.
Search the TL side & this side as well as look at both FAQ's. There is some discussion on custom cams, & engine mods. 3.5L builds, & 3.8L builds. These engines are a better option to swap in to get power then trying with the 3.2L.
Last edited by fuzzy02CLS; Apr 19, 2011 at 08:28 AM.
Just keep in mind most everything has been thought up & some have been discussed & tried to get the kinda of power out of this car. Remember it's still a FWD car. There are limits you will hit with the platform. It wasn't designed for it.
Also parts are a problem. There's hardly a aftermarket for the car or the engine. It's getting a little better, but nothing near what other cars have out there.
Search the TL side & this side as well as look at both FAQ's. There is some discussion on custom cams, & engine mods. 3.5L builds, & 3.8L builds. These engines are a better option to swap in to get power then trying with the 3.2L.
Also parts are a problem. There's hardly a aftermarket for the car or the engine. It's getting a little better, but nothing near what other cars have out there.
Search the TL side & this side as well as look at both FAQ's. There is some discussion on custom cams, & engine mods. 3.5L builds, & 3.8L builds. These engines are a better option to swap in to get power then trying with the 3.2L.
The clutch will get done in the next month or so, and then it will be on into the year before the real mods start. One piece at a time.
I know what you mean about parts. I have looked around and it is hard to find performance stuff for the cars. I guess too few were made to justify the expense of R&D.
Thanks for the advice. I will check those places. I would settle for the 12's realisticly. Hell, I would just be happy if all my stock shit worked as it should at this point and time!
The clutch will get done in the next month or so, and then it will be on into the year before the real mods start. One piece at a time.
I know what you mean about parts. I have looked around and it is hard to find performance stuff for the cars. I guess too few were made to justify the expense of R&D.
The clutch will get done in the next month or so, and then it will be on into the year before the real mods start. One piece at a time.
I know what you mean about parts. I have looked around and it is hard to find performance stuff for the cars. I guess too few were made to justify the expense of R&D.
BUT now on the TL side, quite a few more where made then the CL (but still nowhere close to the accord though), and the other thing, is that most of them when new, where sold to an older crowd, not into modding cars in general (my TL was definitely an exception though
)
also forgot to mention that even the V6 in the accord, is again kinda sold to older people not really willing to modify their cars, so the reason for r&d not being fully worth it for companies
also as far as for suspension bits and pieces, look to the 6th gen Accord (1998-02) since they share alot of the same basic chassis parts and such between the models
also as far as for suspension bits and pieces, look to the 6th gen Accord (1998-02) since they share alot of the same basic chassis parts and such between the models
I have been thinking a lot about all the things said... I am leaning toward a slight build on the CL and getting another car to "Hot Rod". I might get a RWD .. The CL is a great car. I kinda hate to kill it by modding it so heavily that it takes away from the car itself. I might go with an older car that is affordable... Any suggestions on what to look for?
but also another car would be an old
car (and alot of the performance parts can just come from the mustang and such), those only go for a couple of grand by the time they are taken out of service (which should not really matter if you want rebuild/hotrod it)again the location of the gas tank should be considered for relocation also

and personally i like the pig's cars because, just imagine when you roll up on somebody, and you leave there ass behind...
Thanks for all the advice... On and off topic, lol!
As far as the clutch goes. I think I will get it replaced and do the T-belt as well.
I do thank everyone for their input. It has helped me put some things into perspective.
As far as the clutch goes. I think I will get it replaced and do the T-belt as well.
I do thank everyone for their input. It has helped me put some things into perspective.
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mugen_kid
Member Cars for Sale
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Nov 13, 2015 10:38 PM






good luck with that. You will be happy to break into high/mid 12s
Im already at ~300whp on my 3.6l with a leaky exhaust and no tune.

