Currently my car is at 162,000km and still on its original clutch. A couple days ago, for the first time since buying the car I did some spirited driving with a friend. I am not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure my clutch was slipping and here's why....

While the spirited driving, after shifting into 2,3 or 4...and so on...I noticed that rpms were raising very fast but car was not. I do not think I was missing gears each time and leaving the car in neutral....but that's why I'm not 100 percent on this.

However, immediately after I noticed that the clutch feel became much stiffer. Meaning when I press down on the clutch now it feels tighter and requires more pressure to engage. And finally, the clutch also disengages very quickly. I used to be able to let off it slowly, but now its almost as if I have no room to disengage and it does so very early on...

Based on this info, which I kno isn't a ton..what are your thoughts? Could it be possible that my clutch line just needs an adjustment?

Think it's on the way out.

Yes, I had the same thing happen. If your car revs without catching when shifting, the clutch is slipping. My TL-S went from very responsive and fast to a slow moving TL! I got a new oem clutch and all is good.

Similar symptoms over here & I'm at 165,000km - except I don't have the stiff pedal and 2nd/3rd still grabs tight. Are you going to go OEM or aftermarket? I'm trying to do more research on the LuK DMF on RockAuto to see if it's the same or very similar to the genuine Acura LuK DMF.

I'm going to go oem as much as possible. Thanks to teh cl, he's given me suggestions on what else to replace during the clutch job. As far as I understand, the luk clutch kit and flywheel should work just as OEM, since majority of luk kits are rebranded. I've already read a lot of ppl on here very pleased with their orders from rock auto and how it's identical to the OEM parts.

LuK DMF is a LOT cheaper than the genuine Acura one, which is why I've been considering the LuK alternative.

What are you going to replace during the clutch job?
I'm doing clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, rear main seal & any of the motor/transmission mounts if they are in rough shape.

That's basically everything I had in mind as well. I will be adding the slave cylinder to the list.
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I've been looking at getting the K-Tuned slave cylinder or maybe LuK & do the delay delete.

I'm just going to stick with luk I think. Dont kno enough about other brands and luk seems to be well reviewed

Teh cl also.mentioned that front axles nay be worth looking at

K-Tuned is a pretty reputable aftermarket brand for Honda/Acura. Price is reasonable on HeelToe as well.

I don't think I'll need axles. My car isn't lowered & is in really good shape. At 165k, I doubt they are worn. I recently had an inspection on my car & I was only advised on my front upper ball-joint and a teeny-tiny seep from my rack & pinion boot/sleeve/whatever the fuck its called.

I just did the clutch, flywheel, axles, and all six engine and motor mounts on my car; the difference in how it drives is amazing.

I saw from your other thread that you purchased LuK parts. How does everything feel? Like stock?

The new clutch feels awesome.

Yeah I read your posts as well. if you don't mind me asking....
Did you order everything from rockauto?
Where did you get the axles?

Did you happen to replace the throw out bearing as well?

• LuK Clutch kit from Amazon (kit plus shipping was a bit less than RockAuto)
• LuK Dual Mass Flywheel from RockAuto
• OEM Flywheel Bolts ordered from Bernardi Acura
• I was inclined to order new OEM axles, however, our fellow member EvilVirus had an unused set of DuraLast axles which he needed to dispose of; I took them off his hands for a nominal fee.
• I ordered all six OEM engine and transmission mounts from Bernardi Acura
• I ordered the OEM Stabilizer Bar bushings and end links from Bernardi Acura
• I ordered the rear hubs from RockAuto

Note 1: The Clutch Kit includes a self adjusting pressure plate, a pilot tool, a throwout bearing, and a pilot bearing.
Note 2: I also purchased a Self-Adjusting Clutch toolkit and coached my mechanic on how to use it.

Also just remembered something.....

during the spirited driving, when I noticed my clutch was slipping.....the rpms were hitting near 7-8k since I was punching it.
This happened a handful of times (about 3-4). Should I be worried about any issues arising out of this? I know it's hard to say but just wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.
I will add that the car has been operating normally since, besides the clutch feel and shifts...

thanks for the info!
A few questions....
-the flywheel bolts....are these necessary?
-the OEM stabilizer bar bushings and end links....what are those?
- and the rear hubs....what are those?

If you still have your part numbers from bernardi acura, would you kindly post them>

Your questions:

• No, flywheel bolts aren't necessary, but they are inexpensive and I don't like doing things twice
• The stabilizer bar, also known as a swaybar, keeps the car flat when lateral forces want the car to lean to one side; the bushings tend to wear over time and the bar can get a bit noisy in bumpy areas. The end links can fail or separate, so I figured while we were going to be in there anyway, hit'em while they're easy to hit.
• Rear hubs are the component which carries the rear wheel bearings and wheel studs; using my experience with my 2001 Accord, I know these can tend to get a bit noisy over time and can eventually fail. Since the car was going to be up on a lift, and since the pair was only $135, I figured why not.

Additional parts (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Flywheel Bolts -- 90011-PGE-000 -- $26.00
Rear Main Oil Seal -- 11300-RCA-A00 -- $38.40

Motor Mounts (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Right -- 50820-SEP-A12 -- $62.02
Rear -- 50810-SEP-A12 -- $141.31
Front -- 50830-SEP-A13 -- $168.11

Tranny Mounts (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Upper -- 50870-SEP-A01 -- $44.44
Front -- 50850-SEP-A12 -- $45.70
Rear -- 50860-SEP-A12 -- $104.32

Stabilizer Bar (OEM From Bernardi Acura):
Bushings -- 51306-SEP-A01 $6.26
Right End Link -- 51320-SDA-A05 -- $18.47
Left End Link -- 51321-SDA-A05 -- $18.47

Rear Hubs (SKF from RockAuto):
Left & Right -- BR930383 -- $135.58

You really should've stopped punching it like that when you noticed it was slipping, also I don't think the ECU would allow you to hit 8k RPM - only can happen if you mis-shift. Fuel cut-off is right at 7000-7100RPM if I remember correctly.

Drive normally until you get the clutch replaced.

Yeah I should've, but at first I thought maybe its because I had missed the gear/gear popped out and car was in neutral. Also adrenaline was a factor of not stopping lol.
Im not sure how high it was, but it was up there for sure. I don't drive aggressively at all, that was the first time I even opened the car up like that.
Hopefully all is well......what are your thoughts on horseshoez list of replacements mtiaz?

Yeah you probably just hit 7k, car should be fine. I drive pretty normally but I definitely open up my car once a week when all the fluids/tires are warmed up. Does zero harm to the car. My car still runs like clockwork.

Pretty comprehensive and similar to mine - my end-links/bushings are laying in my garage. Still going to pass on the axles for now & probably the rear hubs. Going to add the flywheel bolts to the list and ask if my mechanic has done a clutch on any 04-08 MT TL's and see if he requires the adjusting tool or not.

I'll probably also add Skunk2 front adjustable control arms & OEM front lower control arms.

Nice sounds good. I think im going to pass on the hubs as well. Those US dollars add up quick after the exchange.
I was comparing the LUK kit from amazon vs rockauto.....rockauto actually seems to be cheaper, despite amazon offering free shipping.
With the rockauto you get the 5% on top, its not much, but it does help and end up costing less.

any idea if the slave cylinder is made my LUK?, there is one available on rockauto...but its a LUK product....
are you guys ordering through a different vendor?

I bought a LuK slave cylinder, performed the CDV delete, and then my shop forgot to put it in.

I think Keihin is the manufacturer for the genuine Acura part. I'll be getting the LuK DMF from RockAuto, clutch kit/mounts/tool from my local Acura dealership since they're giving me a pretty good deal and K-Tuned clutch MC and the aforementioned suspension parts from HeelToe.

would your dealership do the same pricing for me? or are they giving you a deal because your getting it installed there aswell....

Probably not lol... its just a dealership thing & they know I work at the Audi dealership down the street so I always receive discounts. Also helps that I do business with them often.

I'm getting my work done at an indy shop.

try and get me the discount man!
for a fellow Canadian in need

Oem Clutch from oemacuraparts is the way to go.

yes sure, if you don't mind paying double for the same kit

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/

try this for oem. 1/2 price of my local acura dealer

I'm curious, why would you buy a clutch kit from Acura when the OEM LuK kit can be had from RockAuto for so cheap?

You Get what you pay for.

Uhhh, what? Are you suggesting the LuK clutch from RockAuto is somehow inferior to the LuK clutch you can buy from Acura?

Nyordrms is on crack

Either that or just hugely unaware.

says the guy that claims his car revs to 8k lol

Lol that's a low blow, I did say I wasn't sure.

I guess you're just unaware the OEM clutch sold by Honda and Acura is the exact same LuK clutch, right down to the stampings and markings, one can buy for a fraction of the price from RockAuto.

Just bought an OEM clutch from Acura & inside the box was a LuK branded covering. I got the clutch kit for $280 CDN.

An important factor to question is whether or not the LuK branded clutch is made to the same quality standards and specifications as the Acura branded one. Here's my two-cents on this. When you buy Brembo-branded brake rotors/pads from Amazon or TireRack to replace the front Brembo system for example, it is a different product compared to the Brembo rotors/pads you would buy from an Acura dealership, hence the price difference.

If this apply's to the Luk vs. Acura-LuK clutch/flywheel, this is something I am not sure of. Just a thought out there.