Check your comptech sways!!! Mine are covered in rust.
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
haha oh no i just bought a comptech icebox, i hope the plastic doesnt rust!!
I hope we don't start seeing quality problems with the headers.
Originally Posted by dj5
Yes, but the plastic Iceboxes have their own problems. Like the screws bolts in the bottom of the icebox spinning in the plastic so you can't remove the top.
I hope we don't start seeing quality problems with the headers.
I hope we don't start seeing quality problems with the headers.
I had that problem on mine. So now I have a self-tapping screw holding down one corner.
Originally Posted by JaredGMS
~$300 for a damned intake and the screws are crappy?
F THAT
F THAT
If you guys put a little logic together you'd see the similarity in the *coating* process they used for both the springs and the sways.
They obviously had a defect on the method/prep/coating materials for springs/sways...
Before you jump on the all things comptech suck bandwagon
... headers have been out a long time and NO ONE has had a problem....
They obviously had a defect on the method/prep/coating materials for springs/sways...
Before you jump on the all things comptech suck bandwagon
... headers have been out a long time and NO ONE has had a problem....
Beware of leakage
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 19,790
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From: Shreveport, Louisiana, just east of nowhere
Originally Posted by SiGGy
Before you jump on the all things comptech suck bandwagon
... headers have been out a long time and NO ONE has had a problem....
... headers have been out a long time and NO ONE has had a problem....
somethings wrong w/ my comptech sways...I don't know if they're rusted or not but yeah...
Every time I go over a dip or a road bump, the car makes a very bad rubbing sound in the rear. It even does it while I'm just driving sometimes. And also it sounds like it's shifting around a little bit ... but last time I checked the bolts were secure. I have to apply white lithium grease every 3 weeks or else the sound comes back...and I dont own a jack or anything so its a MAJOR pain in the ass. I seriously think something is wrong w/ it...because everyone else I've talked to said that they applied the grease and have had no problems since. Yet I've had to re-apply 4 times now, within 3 months!
Every time I go over a dip or a road bump, the car makes a very bad rubbing sound in the rear. It even does it while I'm just driving sometimes. And also it sounds like it's shifting around a little bit ... but last time I checked the bolts were secure. I have to apply white lithium grease every 3 weeks or else the sound comes back...and I dont own a jack or anything so its a MAJOR pain in the ass. I seriously think something is wrong w/ it...because everyone else I've talked to said that they applied the grease and have had no problems since. Yet I've had to re-apply 4 times now, within 3 months!
The squeeking is due to the polyurethane bushings. The stock ones are rubber and do not squeek but poly ones perform better.
You have to take the bushings off and apply tape every year or so.
You have to take the bushings off and apply tape every year or so.
I've got the Comptech sways and been through two winters with snow/salt ... Haven't checked them recently, but when I installed my exhaust a few months ago, the swaybars looked just fine. Will have to check them again when I get a chance.
Siggy has the better half of this figured out. Most of you know I do powder coating and have for 15 years. Powder coatings are very robust, as long as the service conditions are observed for the problem at hand. For sways, I would imagine corrosion resistance (road salt), chip resistance (pebbles and road debris) and flexibility of the coating are very important. All signs point to the proper coating being an epoxy (superior corrosion resistance, but very poor UV resistance) or an epoxy polyester hybrid to get the best of both worlds.
If someone can send me a flake of the paint, it needs to be about the size of your little fingernail, I can identify the chemistry through my analytical laboratory. Then we have a starting point.
But no matter how good powder coatings are (and they are damn good), there can be three problems that can relegate it to junk status:
1. Picking the wrong powder chemistry.
2. Improper surface preperation. It needs to be clean, dry and have some, what we call "tooth", a slightly roughened surface. Usually FePO4, Iron phosphate, provides this and is an additional corrosion barrier. Note: too MUCH FePO4 can also cause problems.
3. Under cureing of the powder coating. This would cause catastrophic failure, irregardless of 1 and 2 above.
If someone can get a paint sample to me, a good contact with a phone number who works well with the A-CL board at comptech, I will try to help you guys solve this problem via phone with those guys.
Usually, painting something is very easy. It's the surface preperation that drives you nuts. It is the foundation for the protective coating.
If someone can send me a flake of the paint, it needs to be about the size of your little fingernail, I can identify the chemistry through my analytical laboratory. Then we have a starting point.
But no matter how good powder coatings are (and they are damn good), there can be three problems that can relegate it to junk status:
1. Picking the wrong powder chemistry.
2. Improper surface preperation. It needs to be clean, dry and have some, what we call "tooth", a slightly roughened surface. Usually FePO4, Iron phosphate, provides this and is an additional corrosion barrier. Note: too MUCH FePO4 can also cause problems.
3. Under cureing of the powder coating. This would cause catastrophic failure, irregardless of 1 and 2 above.
If someone can get a paint sample to me, a good contact with a phone number who works well with the A-CL board at comptech, I will try to help you guys solve this problem via phone with those guys.
Usually, painting something is very easy. It's the surface preperation that drives you nuts. It is the foundation for the protective coating.
nice going comptech.
oh well now i know not to buy anything eles from comptech. Spring is rusted now my sways might be rusting later. Its nice to see comptech trying thier best to look after thier loyal customers.
oh well now i know not to buy anything eles from comptech. Spring is rusted now my sways might be rusting later. Its nice to see comptech trying thier best to look after thier loyal customers.
and all this talk about how it's better to spend the extra cash for Comptech products...for their reliablity....wtf is up with that?...next thing you know, the headers are gonna start falling apart....
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
Originally Posted by asloudasitgets
nice going comptech.
oh well now i know not to buy anything eles from comptech. Spring is rusted now my sways might be rusting later. Its nice to see comptech trying thier best to look after thier loyal customers.
oh well now i know not to buy anything eles from comptech. Spring is rusted now my sways might be rusting later. Its nice to see comptech trying thier best to look after thier loyal customers.
I live in chicago and ever winter they salt the shit out of our roads ecspecially if they have a over stock of salt. This will be my second winter with them and after the first beating they still look like new. I actually just wiped them down this weekend when I was repainting the y-piping and mufflers.
Bubble wrap?! are you kidding? seems like if and when water gets in it can't easily esape the bubble wrap and the springs won't dry..
My springs better be good, have been on a few months. I need to check.
My springs better be good, have been on a few months. I need to check.
Originally Posted by 123456SPEED
Bubble wrap?! are you kidding? seems like if and when water gets in it can't easily esape the bubble wrap and the springs won't dry.
Greatest thing ive read all day
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Those Cars from East Coast and Northern US nothing but rust!!!

