TypeS_boi

I did a search and came up w/ 1 thread but looks like it was never really solved and not too many people gave any input. This just started happening recently. I have an 01 CLs w/ 50K on it. The car has always started fine. Put the key in, turn and boom...car is started. Couple of days ago it was fairly hot but there have been hotter days and the car starts fine. I get in and turn the key and it took a few cranks before the car started and when it did it was kinda rough like it was about to die. Another time I went to school and the car sat for about 3 hrs and by 10pm it was a cool nite. I started it and did the same thing??? I turned it off and it started fine. Can anyone tell me what the cause of this can be? Do I need to get a tuneup? Belts? Clean the filter on my intake (haven't been cleaned in 6 mos) Battery is fine cuz it still shows the green eye. Not running any other accessories. Someone fill me in pls. thanks-john

NiteQwill

Check battery voltage with car off. Should be around 12.6-13.2V, if not, you're looking at a bad battery.

TypeS_boi

Will do sir...gotta find my voltmeter from electronics class...haha, j/k. I was kinda suspecting the battery. How long have you guys gone w/ the original and when (mileage) did you replace? I was gonna pick up an Optima today but wanted to see what may be causing this first.

Chopsie

Replaced mine last aug/sept @ about 40k of so. What I "learned" was that Honda/Acura batteries are really only meant to last 3-4 years.

F900

yes sounds like the battery voltage is low, i had the same problem and replaced battery, and cranks right up, Acura tech told me OEM CL-S batterys are crap, and don't mind the indicator on the battery, they dont trust them.

ToKiE

yeah probably battery..that is what is wrong with minee

TypeS_boi

Thanks for everyone's input. I'll prob pick up a battery at sears tomorrow. So much easier to ask you guys rather than waste my time at the dealer. Mods can close this now!

patek007

Your voltmeter reading could be misleading as well... what you'd need to check is the CURRENT, which is like 'torque' and voltage like horsepower ... The easiest way to notice the battery going... - more cranks then before, 3-4 years since you changed last one, and this one... my personally noticed - all your lights on your dashboards are WAY DIMMER then with a fresh bettery - psychologically you are 'used' to it... but when you'd put the new battery in - you'd see the 'brightness' of every damn light/led you've been missing ....

NiteQwill

How can voltimeter be misleading? If it doesn't read between 12.6-13.2, it's a bad battery.

TypeS_boi

My dash lights, headlights...all my lights are bright...haven't dimmed at all. I was just wondering whether it could be something as simple as a battery issue or something else. I kno what you're saying that I may be used to the lights being the way they are since the battery hasn't been changed in 4 yrs and they may just illuminate more w/ a frsh one as you stated. But a voltmeter w/ measure this well enough as Niteqwill mentioned should be in the 12.6-13.2 range.

carquest

could also be a fuel pump. try turning the igition on for a few seconds before cranking the engine. this allows the fuel pressure to build in the fuel rails. the pump is powered when the key is in the "run" position. if this seems to fix things it may be a fuel pump.

good luck.

mlb585

A batter can show a surface charge from 12-13.5 volts but it can drop to 4-7 on a battery that is dead when you try to start it. Did it on my dad's camry and and it dropped to 6.xx volts. Basically, the battery couldn't keep up with the amperage that the starter was demanding. I say to look at the batter cables as well to make sure they're not corrode. Not just at the terminals but under the wire sheath....sometimes they corrode under the insulation and you will never know about it. Happened on my 91 mustang and I couldn't believe it. It happens.