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So, the saga gets worse. This trans didn't have a cracked case, so that's good. However, it was stored without a cooler on it. When I was changing the filter, all kinds of water came out. Nope, not going to use this one either.
Well, if it helps to make you feel any more confident, the AV6 trans I swapped in had 160k miles on it, and held up better than my motor did hitting red line all the time. Still feels perfectly fine from when I test drove it, after the knocking made itself present in the new motor .
Unless you're trying to race, a high mileage trans shouldn't be that bad if you're easy on it.
I'm selling the car as soon as it's done. 160k sounds good, I could do that. Still pissed that I've tried two so far, with no success. I'm glad I saw both of the major defects before installation.
I finally got a good trans. Cleaned it up, was trying to mate trans to engine, and the trans fell off of the jack. Broke the third gear pressure switch, and a solenoid. I have the solenoid, but will have to get another pressure switch. Hopefully tomorrow they shall be one unit, and I can proceed to drop it in.
Trans coolers are definitely different. AV6 has larger hose, which has been covered in the FAQ. Also had to swap this lifting bracket. CL on left, AV6 on right.
NSS is different as well. Also covered in the FAQ. AV6 has a connector, CL is hard wired. Also, the NSS covers are different. You have to use the AV6 cover, on the left.
On the Type-S CL / TL's, those two bolts, circled in yellow, are needed to secure the TCS Main Stay.
Is there any easy way to determine what 'gear' position the AV6 trans is in (like P or N) before you transfer the Acura NSS?
I presume the Acura NSS was placed in P before pulling the trans.?
Or is it just 'hit & miss' trail & error?
I have no idea what gear the AV6 was in. The CL was in park, but I had to turn the inside to match the AV6. I think it's going to be trial and error once I get power to everything.
Progress has been made. I had to go out of town for 5 days, so I can't do anything until Wednesday. After driving 10 hours, not sure I will want to. But, the motor is in, and mostly hooked up electrically. Driver side had a bad wheel bearing, so that's on order. Old one is already pressed out. Got a new lower ball joint for that side as well. I picked up a seat that moves back and forth, with both tracks. I am going to set it in the car and hook it up to see if both tracks move. If so, I can swap the seating surfaces, since the seat I got was from a CL, not a Type S. At least it's tan.
And it's done. Car drives through all 5 gears, with the only neutral being neutral. Finally fixed the seat issue, and think I fixed another issue. This was a flood car, so keep that in mind. I had a code for the ABS pump circuit open. Didn't put two and two together, until today. I put in the new seat, and it moved back and forth. Swapped tracks to the old proper seat, and it would not move. Swapped the switch, nope. That's when I saw the rust on the ABS computer. Swapped that, seat still didn't move. Thought maybe the seat circuit ran through there. Nope. Finally swapped wire harnesses from the new seat to the old seat, and it works perfectly. Cleared the ABS code, and ran down the driveway. ABS light came on right away, but this time for a left front wheel speed sensor. That's the side where I attempted to replace the wheel bearing, and messed that up. So, I will be heading to the boneyard when I get back from this work trip, and get another knuckle. That should fix all my issues. I'm also going to be replacing both upper control arms, front brakes, and a tie rod end. And that should wrap up the project. Pic of the board, and a pic of my old CLS-6, with the new CLS. Both 2003. The white one is sold, I just need to finish it.
06-25-2021, 03:17 PM
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