Bottle Heater & Purge Installed...Going to the track tomorrow!!
#82
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Originally posted by scalbert
http://www.wbo2.com
The fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea when doing what you are.
As for what A/F ratio, go for lower than 12.0:1; 11.5:1 will be safe.
http://www.wbo2.com
The fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea when doing what you are.
As for what A/F ratio, go for lower than 12.0:1; 11.5:1 will be safe.
The last thing I need is the TechEdge wideband unit. I went to this page http://www.wbo2.com/orderpage.htm but I am not sure what I need to order (there are so many choices). Can you point me in the right direction?
Thanks
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#83
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AU$535
4.0 m WBo2 (2.0) system (for 7057)
System for 7 057 sensor but does not include the 7057 sensor
To order the sensor click on the link midway down:
http://www.wbo2.com
4.0 m WBo2 (2.0) system (for 7057)
System for 7 057 sensor but does not include the 7057 sensor
To order the sensor click on the link midway down:
http://www.wbo2.com
#86
Senior Moderator
did you get the blow down installed?
#88
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i just finished emptying the bottle.
i'll do it this weekend.
how was the fuel pump install? are you using zex plugs again?
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how was the fuel pump install? are you using zex plugs again?
#89
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
...includes LD01 display & either 2.6 m or 4.0 m cable with 7057 connector.
Do I need the 2.6m or the 4.0m cable?
...includes LD01 display & either 2.6 m or 4.0 m cable with 7057 connector.
Do I need the 2.6m or the 4.0m cable?
#90
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Originally posted by mattg
i just finished emptying the bottle.
i'll do it this weekend.
how was the fuel pump install? are you using zex plugs again?
i just finished emptying the bottle.
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
how was the fuel pump install? are you using zex plugs again?
Yes I am using Zex plugs again. I'm just changing them because I have been running the same plugs since I first put in the Zex kit (two years ago). I think they've had it by now.
#93
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my stock plugs are at 50k. they still seem to be working fine though.
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#94
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Originally posted by mattg
my stock plugs are at 50k. they still seem to be working fine though.
my stock plugs are at 50k. they still seem to be working fine though.
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
![No No](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/nono.gif)
#95
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yep, stock plugs. i didn't know new plugs were manditory.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#96
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Originally posted by mattg
yep, stock plugs. i didn't know new plugs were manditory.
yep, stock plugs. i didn't know new plugs were manditory.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
Do I need to use different spark plugs when using the ZEX nitrous kit?
It is highly recommended that you install non-projected nose style spark plugs that are 2 heat ranges cooler than stock plugs. For best results, use our Hyperformance triple electrode spark plugs . These spark plugs were designed specifically for nitrous, turbo, and supercharged applications.
Matt, please change your plugs ASAP unless you want to damage your car!!!
#97
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Spark Plugs and Nitrous Oxide:
What Works, What Doesn't, and Why
Over the years there seems to have been a great amount of technical material written about the simple operation of a spark plug and what they can do in relation to the way an engine runs. There are a few basic characteristics about spark plugs that you need to know to make an intelligent choice about the correct spark plug for your application.
First, and most important; a spark plug must be of the correct design to operate within the environment of your engine, not the other way around. This means that the spark plug has virtually no influence on how the engine burns fuel or runs in general. The correct spark plug will simply survive the conditions present in your engine. A spark plug must maintain a certain temperature to keep itself clean. The wrong heat range can cause an overheated plug or a fouled plug. The heat range refers to the temperature of the ceramic material surrounding the center electrode.
Lean air/fuel ratios are more difficult to light because there are less fuel molecules in the area of the plug gap when the plug is scheduled to fire; thus, projected nose plugs were designed for late-model lean-burn engines. Modern high-energy ignition also allowed larger plug gaps. All the while this was happening, something else happened. Something that no one seems to have really noticed as the real culprit when the issue of factory type plugs being used with nitrous comes up. We'd like to clue you in.
Quite often, a factory type, wide-gap projected plug will produce a misfire condition after only a few seconds of nitrous use. The misfire is not due to the heat range. The misfire occurs because the ground strap of the spark plug becomes a glowing ember because it is too long to dissipate the extra heat produced by a nitrous-accelerated burn condition. The correct fix for this phenomenon is to replace the plugs with one that has a shorter ground strap. By doing this, you will shorten the path for the heat being absorbed by the ground strap. You can use the same heat range, you just have to find a non-projected nose plus with a shorter and preferably thicker ground strap.
If you only change the heat range of the spark plug to a colder heat range, you may very well still have the misfire problem. Since the length of the ground strap is the cause of the misfire, a colder spark plug may have the same length of ground strap as the hotter plug you replaced it with.
Spark plug gaps should generally be .030" to .035". Never try to gap a plug designed for an .060" gap down to .035". Find the correct non-projected nose plug designed for an .035" gap.
What Works, What Doesn't, and Why
Over the years there seems to have been a great amount of technical material written about the simple operation of a spark plug and what they can do in relation to the way an engine runs. There are a few basic characteristics about spark plugs that you need to know to make an intelligent choice about the correct spark plug for your application.
First, and most important; a spark plug must be of the correct design to operate within the environment of your engine, not the other way around. This means that the spark plug has virtually no influence on how the engine burns fuel or runs in general. The correct spark plug will simply survive the conditions present in your engine. A spark plug must maintain a certain temperature to keep itself clean. The wrong heat range can cause an overheated plug or a fouled plug. The heat range refers to the temperature of the ceramic material surrounding the center electrode.
Lean air/fuel ratios are more difficult to light because there are less fuel molecules in the area of the plug gap when the plug is scheduled to fire; thus, projected nose plugs were designed for late-model lean-burn engines. Modern high-energy ignition also allowed larger plug gaps. All the while this was happening, something else happened. Something that no one seems to have really noticed as the real culprit when the issue of factory type plugs being used with nitrous comes up. We'd like to clue you in.
Quite often, a factory type, wide-gap projected plug will produce a misfire condition after only a few seconds of nitrous use. The misfire is not due to the heat range. The misfire occurs because the ground strap of the spark plug becomes a glowing ember because it is too long to dissipate the extra heat produced by a nitrous-accelerated burn condition. The correct fix for this phenomenon is to replace the plugs with one that has a shorter ground strap. By doing this, you will shorten the path for the heat being absorbed by the ground strap. You can use the same heat range, you just have to find a non-projected nose plus with a shorter and preferably thicker ground strap.
If you only change the heat range of the spark plug to a colder heat range, you may very well still have the misfire problem. Since the length of the ground strap is the cause of the misfire, a colder spark plug may have the same length of ground strap as the hotter plug you replaced it with.
Spark plug gaps should generally be .030" to .035". Never try to gap a plug designed for an .060" gap down to .035". Find the correct non-projected nose plug designed for an .035" gap.
#98
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i guess i better get some plugs. :o
#101
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
I just changed mine today. You're going to have lots of fun
with the three plugs in the rear.
I just changed mine today. You're going to have lots of fun
![Roll Eyes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
That still wasn't as bad as my Typhoon with a plug behind the steering shaft.
However, add the SC to your car and you know have a problem changing the front plugs on the CL-S
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#102
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i've changed 2 times so far. both iridium IK20s.
darrinb, you said 30 bucks for plugs? where can I get this deal?
I paid ~$65 the first time, and $45.00 the second time(private seller). where can I find plugs for $30.00?
mattg, are you still on your first transmission?
darrinb, you said 30 bucks for plugs? where can I get this deal?
I paid ~$65 the first time, and $45.00 the second time(private seller). where can I find plugs for $30.00?
mattg, are you still on your first transmission?
#103
Senior Moderator
nope. i'm on #2.
#105
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#107
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Originally posted by mattg
shit, darrin is right.
should i get the zex plugs?
http://www.mmrusa.com/zexplugs.htm
shit, darrin is right.
should i get the zex plugs?
http://www.mmrusa.com/zexplugs.htm
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#108
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Originally posted by scalbert
However, add the SC to your car and you know have a problem changing the front plugs on the CL-S
However, add the SC to your car and you know have a problem changing the front plugs on the CL-S
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
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