darrinb

might be your TPS, thats the code my car threw when it was acting up like that

SFLA_Type-S

I don't think that is it. The tranny feels fine.
I can't say for sure, but I had the check engine light come on last year & it was a defective o2 sensor.

J.T.'s 3.2CL

My old TL froze in second gear a few days before the tranny went. The CEL and other lights also came on as it bit the dust. Hope it's not the case for you.

SFLA_Type-S

I hope so too.

Nashua_Night_Hawk

Well, if you are spraying and having tons of Check Engine light, it is worth it to pay like $150 for an OBD-II scanner and some $60 for the service manual.


Nashua.

scalbert

The fashing CEL is most likely temporary and intermitant misfires detected. Not sure if it also flashes the VSA lights as I don't have that.

I would not be running the nitrous until you get a scan tool of some sort and check for codes. Secondly, I you may want to determine what your A/F ratio deto may be occuring.

SFLA_Type-S

Thanks for your help scalbert

I do not plan on making any more nitrous runs until I can get the codes checked. I have removed the bottle from the trunk so that there is no temptation. Will they be able to read the error code now that I reset the ECU?

I suspect that it may be detonation, but I am a bit confused. I have not changed the jetting at all. I am still jetted for a 75hp shot. I have not had any problems with a 75 shot until I installed the heater & purge. Could the bottle heater and/or purge make that much of a difference?

SFLA_Type-S

Thanks, that's not a bad idea Nashua

scalbert

BTW, I meant to respond to your post in the IC thread but got side tracked this morning. I just responded so it may help answer some questions.

No, the code cannot be read if it has been reset.

The fuel pump may have been over taxed and is now weak. Combine that with the bottle heater and running higher pressure and I can't see how the stock fuel pump could keep up. You really need to monitor the A/F ratios when doing this.

Myself and others are running the TechEdge unit with great success. This is a true wide band unit displaying accurate A/F values.

SFLA_Type-S

Where can I get the TechEdge unit? Do I need to get the Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge to go with it? How do I know what is a safe A/F ratio. Sorry for all of the questions, but when it comes to A/F ratio I don't know much.

BTW: That gauge pod looks sweet!!!

scalbert

http://www.wbo2.com

The fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea when doing what you are.

As for what A/F ratio, go for lower than 12.0:1; 11.5:1 will be safe.

SFLA_Type-S

Thanks again scalbert

mantis23

What if I'm going below 10? Is that dangerous?

scalbert

That is too rich and can lead to back firing or damage to the converter over time.

mantis23

do i need to add more n20 or more fuel?

SFLA_Type-S

More fuel...

Lean = not enough fuel
Rich = too much fuel

mattg

are you going to get the CT fuel pump?

scalbert

Less fuel if you are below 10.0 A/F ratio. Or more nitrous...

mantis23

one guy says more fuel, one says less.

im gonna guess and say Scalbert probably knows what hes talking about.

Hobo

scalbert is right.

sfla just had it backwards :P

SFLA_Type-S

Sorry, I messed up. The Lean/Rich equation (above) is correct, but I meant to say less fuel. If you are running rich you def need less fuel.

SFLA_Type-S

Yes, I already ordered it. Should be here next week.

ModAddict

SFLA, next time your dash lights up, don't reset it. Autozone, Pepboys, and others, will pull the code for you for free. At some point you may want to invest in a scan tool.

I have had similar issues with the second gear shift at wot, with the blower on. I never did get to the bottom it, but it's been fine since the blower was removed, thousands of hard miles ago.

Currently, my dash is all lit up like yours, and the ecu code indicates the O2 sensor is the culprit. I had my stock O2 wraped in foil and zip-tied up, and put the wideband sensor in the stock O2 sensor location. I'm sure that caused the demise of the stock sensor. If your O2 sensor is bad, and you are going to get the TechEdge wideband, you can do the same thing, and send a narrowband signal to the ecu from the wideband unit. Doing this will save you from having to buy a new O2 sensor for now.

Bottom line,.. scan the code first and go from there.

SFLA_Type-S

Thanks ModAddict. I will have the code pulled next time before I reset it. If the o2 sensor is bad, will the code indicate that when it is pulled? Scalbert also mentioned the TechEdge wideband unit. I am going to look into that as soon as possible. How hard is the install for the TechEdge wideband unit?

I also noticed that the check engine light only came on when I had the bottle warmed and the bottle pressure was above 1100 psi. I can't figure that out.

Chopsie

Your situation sucks SFLA.
Can't run at the track
Dash lighting up with errors.
Get that code checked and report back.

scalbert

Let's look at this for what it is. You used the bottle warmer which provided higher bottle pressure and subsequently more nitrous. If you didn't have enough fuel to support the additional nitrous you would experience detonation. This could be read as misfires and the ECU set a code.

This is obviously conjecture but sounds reasonable and is probably the reason for the issues. IMO, when experimenting, it is better to know for sure what is going on instead of just hoping for the best. This would mean to know the A/F ratio by purchasing a monitor or going to a dyno which has one.

scalbert

Here is my suggestion for the future. You have the pump on the way, install it when received but don’t go out and re-run with nitrous just yet. Get to a dyno with a wide band O2 monitor or purchase and install your own. After that, run and see what is occurring to be sure the A/F ratio is within reasonable limits.

SFLA_Type-S

Thanks scalbert. I will definately go that route. It's better to be safe than sorry. I am also seriously considering going with a wet kit.

ModAddict

darrinb

why are you considering a wet kit??

SFLA_Type-S

I won't have to worry about running lean with a wet kit.

MtBikR

I get this a lot. Especially after spraying. BOth VSA lights stay on and every now and then it throws a CEL. The bitch is the car will act like crippled until the codes are cleared.
BTW I also learned about blow down tubes the hard way

mantis23

but you'll have to worry about running rich... like me. :sigh:

bent09

iTrader: (1)

I remember my first post on this forum when I got blasted for asking if anyone ran a wet kit. Everyone was so scared. Kinda of funny how things change. I ran a 13.2 at hrp.

mattg

what was your trap speed and mod list?

bent09

iTrader: (1)

104 (i think I will find the slip), with nx wet kit, hks exhaust, AEM cold air intake, ct headers. Sleeper too.

SFLA_Type-S

Hey bent09, how do you like the wet kit? Have you had any issues similar to mine?

darrinb

nice time bent

bent09

iTrader: (1)

What issues are you having?

I was told to run a wet kit if your going to shoot anything over 50 shot becuase it was safer. I never had any problems running rich or lean. The tunning was done by a shop here in houston so I took my lack of knowledge out of the equation. The main problem was 0-60. It was impossible to get traction, the car would acually feel like it was stalling it was jumping so hard. I had stock rims but lowered the psi on the tires as much as possible. I LOVED THE NX kit. The only thing was when I sprayed it was not as much as a jump, like in the accord. It was more like smooth power almost like starting to drive on ice. Man that was fun....

Totaled

darrinb

fuckin, how did ya crash it