Bottle Heater & Purge Installed...Going to the track tomorrow!!
#42
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Originally posted by J.T.'s 3.2TL
Bye bye tranny!
Bye bye tranny!
Originally posted by darrinb
might be your TPS, thats the code my car threw when it was acting up like that
might be your TPS, thats the code my car threw when it was acting up like that
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#45
Happy CL-S Pilot
Well, if you are spraying and having tons of Check Engine light, it is worth it to pay like $150 for an OBD-II scanner and some $60 for the service manual.
Nashua.
Nashua.
#46
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The fashing CEL is most likely temporary and intermitant misfires detected. Not sure if it also flashes the VSA lights as I don't have that.
I would not be running the nitrous until you get a scan tool of some sort and check for codes. Secondly, I you may want to determine what your A/F ratio deto may be occuring.
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I would not be running the nitrous until you get a scan tool of some sort and check for codes. Secondly, I you may want to determine what your A/F ratio deto may be occuring.
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Originally posted by scalbert
The fashing CEL is most likely temporary and intermitant misfires detected. Not sure if it also flashes the VSA lights as I don't have that.
I would not be running the nitrous until you get a scan tool of some sort and check for codes. Secondly, I you may want to determine what your A/F ratio deto may be occuring.
The fashing CEL is most likely temporary and intermitant misfires detected. Not sure if it also flashes the VSA lights as I don't have that.
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I would not be running the nitrous until you get a scan tool of some sort and check for codes. Secondly, I you may want to determine what your A/F ratio deto may be occuring.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
I do not plan on making any more nitrous runs until I can get the codes checked. I have removed the bottle from the trunk so that there is no temptation. Will they be able to read the error code now that I reset the ECU?
I suspect that it may be detonation, but I am a bit confused. I have not changed the jetting at all. I am still jetted for a 75hp shot. I have not had any problems with a 75 shot until I installed the heater & purge. Could the bottle heater and/or purge make that much of a difference?
#48
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Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
Well, if you are spraying and having tons of Check Engine light, it is worth it to pay like $150 for an OBD-II scanner and some $60 for the service manual.
Nashua.
Well, if you are spraying and having tons of Check Engine light, it is worth it to pay like $150 for an OBD-II scanner and some $60 for the service manual.
Nashua.
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#49
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
Will they be able to read the error code now that I reset the ECU?
I suspect that it may be detonation, but I am a bit confused. I have not changed the jetting at all. I am still jetted for a 75hp shot. I have not had any problems with a 75 shot until I installed the heater & purge. Could the bottle heater and/or purge make that much of a difference?
Will they be able to read the error code now that I reset the ECU?
I suspect that it may be detonation, but I am a bit confused. I have not changed the jetting at all. I am still jetted for a 75hp shot. I have not had any problems with a 75 shot until I installed the heater & purge. Could the bottle heater and/or purge make that much of a difference?
No, the code cannot be read if it has been reset.
The fuel pump may have been over taxed and is now weak. Combine that with the bottle heater and running higher pressure and I can't see how the stock fuel pump could keep up. You really need to monitor the A/F ratios when doing this.
Myself and others are running the TechEdge unit with great success. This is a true wide band unit displaying accurate A/F values.
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Where can I get the TechEdge unit? Do I need to get the Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge to go with it? How do I know what is a safe A/F ratio. Sorry for all of the questions, but when it comes to A/F ratio I don't know much.
BTW: That gauge pod looks sweet!!!
BTW: That gauge pod looks sweet!!!
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#51
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http://www.wbo2.com
The fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea when doing what you are.
As for what A/F ratio, go for lower than 12.0:1; 11.5:1 will be safe.
The fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea when doing what you are.
As for what A/F ratio, go for lower than 12.0:1; 11.5:1 will be safe.
#53
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Originally posted by scalbert
http://www.wbo2.com
The fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea when doing what you are.
As for what A/F ratio, go for lower than 12.0:1; 11.5:1 will be safe.
http://www.wbo2.com
The fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea when doing what you are.
As for what A/F ratio, go for lower than 12.0:1; 11.5:1 will be safe.
#54
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Originally posted by mantis23
What if I'm going below 10? Is that dangerous?
What if I'm going below 10? Is that dangerous?
#57
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are you going to get the CT fuel pump?
#61
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
More fuel...
Lean = not enough fuel
Rich = too much fuel
More fuel...
Lean = not enough fuel
Rich = too much fuel
#63
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SFLA, next time your dash lights up, don't reset it. Autozone, Pepboys, and others, will pull the code for you for free. At some point you may want to invest in a scan tool.
I have had similar issues with the second gear shift at wot, with the blower on. I never did get to the bottom it, but it's been fine since the blower was removed, thousands of hard miles ago.
Currently, my dash is all lit up like yours, and the ecu code indicates the O2 sensor is the culprit. I had my stock O2 wraped in foil and zip-tied up, and put the wideband sensor in the stock O2 sensor location. I'm sure that caused the demise of the stock sensor. If your O2 sensor is bad, and you are going to get the TechEdge wideband, you can do the same thing, and send a narrowband signal to the ecu from the wideband unit. Doing this will save you from having to buy a new O2 sensor for now.
Bottom line,.. scan the code first and go from there.
I have had similar issues with the second gear shift at wot, with the blower on. I never did get to the bottom it, but it's been fine since the blower was removed, thousands of hard miles ago.
Currently, my dash is all lit up like yours, and the ecu code indicates the O2 sensor is the culprit. I had my stock O2 wraped in foil and zip-tied up, and put the wideband sensor in the stock O2 sensor location. I'm sure that caused the demise of the stock sensor. If your O2 sensor is bad, and you are going to get the TechEdge wideband, you can do the same thing, and send a narrowband signal to the ecu from the wideband unit. Doing this will save you from having to buy a new O2 sensor for now.
Bottom line,.. scan the code first and go from there.
![Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
#64
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Originally posted by ModAddict
SFLA, next time your dash lights up, don't reset it. Autozone, Pepboys, and others, will pull the code for you for free. At some point you may want to invest in a scan tool.
I have had similar issues with the second gear shift at wot, with the blower on. I never did get to the bottom it, but it's been fine since the blower was removed, thousands of hard miles ago.
Currently, my dash is all lit up like yours, and the ecu code indicates the O2 sensor is the culprit. I had my stock O2 wraped in foil and zip-tied up, and put the wideband sensor in the stock O2 sensor location. I'm sure that caused the demise of the stock sensor. If your O2 sensor is bad, and you are going to get the TechEdge wideband, you can do the same thing, and send a narrowband signal to the ecu from the wideband unit. Doing this will save you from having to buy a new O2 sensor for now.
Bottom line,.. scan the code first and go from there.
SFLA, next time your dash lights up, don't reset it. Autozone, Pepboys, and others, will pull the code for you for free. At some point you may want to invest in a scan tool.
I have had similar issues with the second gear shift at wot, with the blower on. I never did get to the bottom it, but it's been fine since the blower was removed, thousands of hard miles ago.
Currently, my dash is all lit up like yours, and the ecu code indicates the O2 sensor is the culprit. I had my stock O2 wraped in foil and zip-tied up, and put the wideband sensor in the stock O2 sensor location. I'm sure that caused the demise of the stock sensor. If your O2 sensor is bad, and you are going to get the TechEdge wideband, you can do the same thing, and send a narrowband signal to the ecu from the wideband unit. Doing this will save you from having to buy a new O2 sensor for now.
Bottom line,.. scan the code first and go from there.
![Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
I also noticed that the check engine light only came on when I had the bottle warmed and the bottle pressure was above 1100 psi. I can't figure that out.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#65
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Your situation sucks SFLA.
Can't run at the track
Dash lighting up with errors.
Get that code checked and report back.
Can't run at the track
Dash lighting up with errors.
Get that code checked and report back.
#66
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
I also noticed that the check engine light only came on when I had the bottle warmed and the bottle pressure was above 1100 psi. I can't figure that out.
I also noticed that the check engine light only came on when I had the bottle warmed and the bottle pressure was above 1100 psi. I can't figure that out.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
This is obviously conjecture but sounds reasonable and is probably the reason for the issues. IMO, when experimenting, it is better to know for sure what is going on instead of just hoping for the best. This would mean to know the A/F ratio by purchasing a monitor or going to a dyno which has one.
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Here is my suggestion for the future. You have the pump on the way, install it when received but don’t go out and re-run with nitrous just yet. Get to a dyno with a wide band O2 monitor or purchase and install your own. After that, run and see what is occurring to be sure the A/F ratio is within reasonable limits.
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Thanks scalbert. I will definately go that route. It's better to be safe than sorry. I am also seriously considering going with a wet kit.
#69
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Originally posted by scalbert
Here is my suggestion for the future. You have the pump on the way, install it when received but don’t go out and re-run with nitrous just yet. Get to a dyno with a wide band O2 monitor or purchase and install your own. After that, run and see what is occurring to be sure the A/F ratio is within reasonable limits.
Here is my suggestion for the future. You have the pump on the way, install it when received but don’t go out and re-run with nitrous just yet. Get to a dyno with a wide band O2 monitor or purchase and install your own. After that, run and see what is occurring to be sure the A/F ratio is within reasonable limits.
![Werd](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
#72
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
Then, the check engine light comes on along with the VSA light (not the triangle, but the actual letters V S A come on directly below the check engine light). I let off & the 350Z obviously flies by & thinks that he beat me, but that's not important because I am too busy worrying about my car. I drove the rest of the way home (50 miles) with both the check engine and VSA lights on, but the car feels & shifts perfectly normal. I get home, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and both lights are off again. I take the car for a ride around the block & everything feels, looks & functions fine.
Then, the check engine light comes on along with the VSA light (not the triangle, but the actual letters V S A come on directly below the check engine light). I let off & the 350Z obviously flies by & thinks that he beat me, but that's not important because I am too busy worrying about my car. I drove the rest of the way home (50 miles) with both the check engine and VSA lights on, but the car feels & shifts perfectly normal. I get home, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and both lights are off again. I take the car for a ride around the block & everything feels, looks & functions fine.
BTW I also learned about blow down tubes the hard way
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#73
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
I won't have to worry about running lean with a wet kit.
I won't have to worry about running lean with a wet kit.
#75
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what was your trap speed and mod list?
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
Hey bent09, how do you like the wet kit? Have you had any issues similar to mine?
Hey bent09, how do you like the wet kit? Have you had any issues similar to mine?
I was told to run a wet kit if your going to shoot anything over 50 shot becuase it was safer. I never had any problems running rich or lean. The tunning was done by a shop here in houston so I took my lack of knowledge out of the equation. The main problem was 0-60. It was impossible to get traction, the car would acually feel like it was stalling it was jumping so hard. I had stock rims but lowered the psi on the tires as much as possible. I LOVED THE NX kit. The only thing was when I sprayed it was not as much as a jump, like in the accord. It was more like smooth power almost like starting to drive on ice. Man that was fun....
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