so i went and got a 3 to 3 " hose for it.....after putting the hose on i can hear the cai a little more but the big surprise was the sound of the engine when i floor it......it sounds so much deeper and throatier i love it.....someone pleez explain this to me....thanks everyone!

 

What's a 3 to 3" hose? Just a hose to fill the gap from the removed bypass?

 

My guess would be just like how wind instruments behave...the longer the horn, the deeper it sounds. Perhaps your bypass valves were opening up prematurely during WOT and was letting air in...causing the tone to be higher pitched.

 

1. I tested the AEM bypass valve and know for a fact that it sucks in hot engine air most of the time. Take a new AEM bypass valve and hold it up to your mouth. Keep the other end closed with your palm. A very slight intake of air will cause the flaps to open.

2. The bypass valve changes the pipe's internal diameter. This is going to change the “depth” of the resonance. The bypass valve acts like a resonator and sound absorber; it "damps" sound energy and a number of members have noticed this. The air bypass also reduces power due to turbulent airflow.

If you are going to use an air bypass, at least get a good one. I have the AEM sitting in a box and I'm pretty sure it will be sitting there for a long time.

An alternative bypass valve with more robust construction should be considered:

http://www.rtec-usa.com

 

Eric,

I was going to buy one of those, but was talked out of it by someone here.
They got one and found out it wasn’t a “bypass” valve at all because it’s always open.
Even though it has better filter media then the AEM one, it doesn’t have any kind of “flapper valves” to close the airway during normal operation.

If you know otherwise about this please share.

Shawn S

 

The flapper valves on the AEM are "worthless" -- that's the point. Get the AEM in your mouth and suck on it; the valve’s flaps are ALWAYS letting in air -- even with very small amounts of air flowing.

Forget about the flaps… BTW, even when I blow into the valve, it still leaks (althought not as much) – that’s how wimpy those flappers are…

I will wager that there is more resistance from the filter media than from the flapper valves. If you don't believe me, try getting a "clean AEM bypass" valve and suck on it. It offers little or NO resistance to incoming air. IMO, those flapper valves open SO EASILY, they are just along for the ride and are basically “OPEN” 99.9% of the time anyway.

If you want the “flappers,” get the AEM. My bypass will continue to sit in the box. When I decide to put a bypass valve on, it wont be the AEM I already purchased. An upstream filter is all you're getting when you purchase the AEM or alternate (before someone starts to flame, get the valve out and try breathing through it).

The 3" silicone "bypass" hose in the summer, "brand-x" in the rainy season is the ticket for the AEM CAI as both are going to pull in lots of hot air during WOT operation.

 

Eric,

I really don’t feel like sucking face with my bypass valve right now.

So you advise that getting one of those RTEC units to replace my AEM would be a good choice ???

Shawn S

 

I hesitate to make people's choices for them. However, I already have the AEM bypass valve and I'm not puting it on my CLS. I will be getting the RTEC unit if and when I get scared enough...

I'd definitly buy a "chunk" of 3" hose to replace the "device" during the dry periods...

 

From the RTEC website:
So wouldn't this thing be drawing in HOT air during WOT conditions just like the AEM "flapper valves" ???

I'm still confused....

Shawn S

 

There’s never a safe “dry period” in Pennsylvania.

Shawn S

 

Yes, they both suck in hot air. It’s about construction. The AEM is made of wimpy plastic that falls apart (at least on some member’s cars). The RTEC has an aluminum frame.

The AEM is made of plastic and tends to come apart. I don't want my engine sucking in a bunch of broken plastic parts (and I know about the "fix" -- I'm not talking about that).

Shawn, you don't want to "suck face" with the AEM. When mine showed up, it was clean; I wiped it again anyway, and wanted to see how much air was needed to get the flappers to open.

If you did it yourself, you would laugh.

That's all I have to say.

Enjoy your choice...


BTW, a much better unit could be designed with a small slide tab to allow the valve to be opened and closed (bypass enabled, bypass disabled). However, I don’t know if anyone is going to bother making the device or one like it.
.

 

with all this talk about the bypass valve, is it easy to put into an AEM CAI? or will i have to do some cutting?

 

you have to cut... There is a template that is included, just tape it onto the cai where you want the bypass to go and find your favorite cutting tool. File the CAI down to get rid of any rough edges and install.

Piece of cake...

 

thanksm still deciding on the ever long argument, bypass valve or not.....