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Well, I was going to work on my car all day, but well.. queue Afroman's song.
So a bit of a lazy day. It wasn't until 12AM struck that I decided to get up off my ass and do something. I work better in the dead of night anyways. So headed to my garage, turned the heaters on, and threw some Justice on my sound bar.
I didn't do much. I got the driver's side spindle back on, everything is good on that side. The passenger side.. well that's a different story. Unfortunately, from my banging on the ball joint studs with a hammer, they have been damaged. I managed to fix the upper ball joint studs with a wire wheel, and rethreading it with the nut. The lower ball joint on the other hand is being problematic.
Now I know it looks pretty bad. I've went at with for maybe 30 minutes trying to get the nut on. Hitting it constantly with a wire wheel. My thought was that maybe I could grind the edge enough so that the nut could make contact with the lower threads, and then hopefully rethreading the stripped portions. It's not working. So I decided to figure it out later and move on to removing the trans from the engine. If all else fails, I'll just grab a used spindle from the junkyard.
Unfortunately, ran into one more stripped bolt. Specifically one for the rear mount bracket. But it's only one bolt, and it looks fixable.
Inside of the transmission casing is an absolute mess. But I don't believe it to be the rear main seal. I'll be replacing the seal since it's cheap and best to do it while I'm here. My guess is still on the oil pan gasket. Transmission will be getting cleaned up & painted to match my main CL's engine paint job.
Now the previous owner said the clutch was beginning to slip. My friend couldn't really tell at all, nor could I. The clutch & flywheel appear to be alright, but definitely worn. But I'm not an expert in this field because I've been stuck with the auto tragic, so I don't know what to look for. But my guess was all that oil was getting thrown into the clutch mating surfaces and causing it to slip. Either way, it will not be reused in the swap, but I will be holding onto it. New parts will be here next week.
Managed to rethread the studs on the ball joints. It wasn't easy. Pretty sure some of the ball joints are bad now, but they were already loose to begin with. Might replace them before selling the car, might not. I'll see how it drives first. Wheels have been put back on in preparation of pulling the car out of the garage to bring my 5 speed in.
Slave cylinder with it's lines + the plunger for the pedal have been removed. Getting that plunger out took me forever to figure out how to maneuver it out. Clutch pedal has been removed. Transmission mounts have been removed. Wiring harness on the driver side has been removed. This wiring harness was an absolute pain in the ass. I do NOT look forward to dealing with this again. The wiring itself is worse than pulling the engine I feel.
Now for the transmission mounts. They are pretty worn. Slight cracking & tearing in some parts, but still intact overall.
The rear engine mount has a big tear on it, but it's still functional. I will definitely need to get those stiffer motor mounts at some point, but for now, it'll do. I don't think anyone is going to pay $600 for a mount this worn lol. The transmission mounts I might just try and fill in with some silicone or something. Don't really have any other options if they're discontinued. Any solutions on fixing them up & making them last longer?
One question, and I think I know the answer already. The wiring harness that's connected to the fuse box under the hood. Is it needed as well? I believe I read in another 6 speed swap that it was needed, but I'm not sure.
Oh, and after dealing with all that wiring crap, i'm just going to pull the motor & transmission out with my 5 speed as well. I'm not even going to attempt removing and installing all this wiring with the motor still in. Just need to make some room first.
Last edited by Thefireball; 12-05-2022 at 01:35 AM.
You can find the sides on amazon, off brand and they get the job done...easy enough to swap if they fail anyway.
You can use window-weld to fill in the mounts to stiffen them up a bit but honestly, how much work are you making for yourself
to save a few bucks here and there...anything that needs addressing, do it now with engine out IMO.
Unfortunately, from my banging on the ball joint studs with a hammer, they have been damaged. I managed to fix the upper ball joint studs with a wire wheel, and rethreading it with the nut. The lower ball joint on the other hand is being problematic.
Inside of the transmission casing is an absolute mess. But I don't believe it to be the rear main seal. I'll be replacing the seal since it's cheap and best to do it while I'm here. My guess is still on the oil pan gasket. Transmission will be getting cleaned up & painted to match my main CL's engine paint job.
Now the previous owner said the clutch was beginning to slip. My friend couldn't really tell at all, nor could I. The clutch & flywheel appear to be alright, but definitely worn. But I'm not an expert in this field because I've been stuck with the auto tragic, so I don't know what to look for.
On the damaged ball joint threads, a thread file or a flat file can help in a pinch. For future reference a flipped over nut on the end of a stud can help to protect the threads when using a hammer. Just be sure its one you don't mind beating up.
Don't forget that the input shaft also has a seal which can leak into the case. Pretty sure, the gearset has to come out for that though. Which at that point should do axle seals too.
There appears to be hot spots on the pressure plate and that clutch disc is severely worn down. Can barely even see the segmenting grooves. For example here's two used ones:
Originally Posted by Thefireball
The rear engine mount has a big tear on it, but it's still functional. I will definitely need to get those stiffer motor mounts at some point, but for now, it'll do. I don't think anyone is going to pay $600 for a mount this worn lol. The transmission mounts I might just try and fill in with some silicone or something. Don't really have any other options if they're discontinued. Any solutions on fixing them up & making them last longer?
Main reason I didn't keep the engine dampeners is because they had no gas pressure and would compress with very little effort. But, again I have the semi solid mounts. My rear mount was starting to crack at one point as well, but its not all the way thru to the other side.
My trans side mounts are a bit cracked too. But, with the trans bolted to the engine they don't seem to carry much load. Rather provide additional rigidness.
You can find the sides on amazon, off brand and they get the job done...easy enough to swap if they fail anyway.
You can use window-weld to fill in the mounts to stiffen them up a bit but honestly, how much work are you making for yourself
to save a few bucks here and there...anything that needs addressing, do it now with engine out IMO.
Originally Posted by Proguy747
You can use 3m window urethane to fill/repair the mounts.
I'll be addressing the issues when I bring the car back in to convert it to an auto. I need to go to the junkyard soon. They have a 2011 TL that I want to look at, and I'll be pulling other parts off some 2G TLs, and CLs if they have them. But if parts are just as bad, I'll probably just buy new. I am trying to save money here, because I still have to buy P2R headers. With the holidays coming up, I'm going to be working less hours, which means less $$$.
The filling in the mounts with polyurethane is something I was looking into last night.
Originally Posted by 619rcr
On the damaged ball joint threads, a thread file or a flat file can help in a pinch. For future reference a flipped over nut on the end of a stud can help to protect the threads when using a hammer. Just be sure its one you don't mind beating up.
Don't forget that the input shaft also has a seal which can leak into the case. Pretty sure, the gearset has to come out for that though. Which at that point should do axle seals too.
There appears to be hot spots on the pressure plate and that clutch disc is severely worn down. Can barely even see the segmenting grooves. For example here's two used ones:
Main reason I didn't keep the engine dampeners is because they had no gas pressure and would compress with very little effort. But, again I have the semi solid mounts. My rear mount was starting to crack at one point as well, but its not all the way thru to the other side.
My trans side mounts are a bit cracked too. But, with the trans bolted to the engine they don't seem to carry much load. Rather provide additional rigidness.
I'll remember the flipped over nut bit. But the ball joint removal tool with the pickle fork works amazingly.
Alright, so the clutch is toast, now I know lol.
I was reading on filling mounts with polyurethane. I was actually wondering about doing this for the transmission mounts. I was concerned about it, because I read you want the transmission mounts softer than the motor mounts. If you stiffen the motor mounts, the vibrations are going to travel to the weakest mounts, and on this case, it would be the transmission mounts. That would cause them to go out even sooner, right? So you'd want to stiffen up the transmission mounts as well. But you don't want them too stiff? I just want something will make them last. Is polyurethane too stiff, or do you think it'd be fine for the transmission mounts? Or should I just leave them alone altogether?
Might need to give those dampers a compression check then. I've read that stiffer ones are good at preventing wheel hop, so it's something I would want installed. I'm still not sure if it bolts onto the auto's subframe though. No one has really said anything about installing them, and I think I've read that you'll need to weld a bracket onto the rear to bolt it in?
If you stiffen the motor mounts, the vibrations are going to travel to the weakest mounts, and on this case, it would be the transmission mounts. That would cause them to go out even sooner, right? So you'd want to stiffen up the transmission mounts as well. But you don't want them too stiff? I just want something will make them last. Is polyurethane too stiff, or do you think it'd be fine for the transmission mounts? Or should I just leave them alone altogether?
I'm still not sure if it bolts onto the auto's subframe though. No one has really said anything about installing them, and I think I've read that you'll need to weld a bracket onto the rear to bolt it in?
Like I said, I haven't tried the poly fill. But, I know there are different compositions that yield different stiffness ratings. (i.e. 60, 75, 80, 85, 95, with 60 being softest).
FWIW, I have 75A innovative mounts, paired with the OEM trans side mounts and have minimal vibration. I get a little rattle at cold start from the trunk mounted battery tray. But, my car has no sound deadening material, carpet or rear seats so its to be expected.
I didn't want to answer on the dampener mounts or wiring being that my original swap was 4cyl MT to 6cyl MT. But yeah, there is a small bracket on the MT cross member for the rear dampener, and a plate welded and tapped for the front dampener. Lastly, based on what I saw from the 02 6GA V6 AT that I swapped into CL chassis, I would speculate that the 2G AT CL is also missing both front and rear provisions.
Like I said, I haven't tried the poly fill. But, I know there are different compositions that yield different stiffness ratings. (i.e. 60, 75, 80, 85, 95, with 60 being softest).
FWIW, I have 75A innovative mounts, paired with the OEM trans side mounts and have minimal vibration. I get a little rattle at cold start from the trunk mounted battery tray. But, my car has no sound deadening material, carpet or rear seats so its to be expected.
I didn't want to answer on the dampener mounts or wiring being that my original swap was 4cyl MT to 6cyl MT. But yeah, there is a small bracket on the MT cross member for the rear dampener, and a plate welded and tapped for the front dampener. Lastly, based on what I saw from the 02 6GA V6 AT that I swapped into CL chassis, I would speculate that the 2G AT CL is also missing both front and rear provisions.
I might just leave the mounts as is, and do the stiffer mounts later. When they're installed, I'll keep a close eye on the transmission mounts. If they start to go out, then I'll see about finding some of the softest poly I can fill them in with.
Guess it's time for me to start learning how to weld. This should be an easy first project. Gonna have to give a few goes on something to practice on though. I want those dampers damn it! I refuse to swap subframes just for a little bracket.
Welp, it was finally delivered today.
My first clutch kit! Thanks to 619rcr for helping me out with this, because i've never had to shop for a clutch before, and I had no clue what to get. I went with the FX250 Clutch master kit with a single mass flywheel. 619 had reffered me to a site that was listing it cheaper than Heeltoe, but I decided to wait until black friday came around to order to see prices. I took advantage of HeelToe's price matching deal, and they threw the black friday promo code on top of it, coming out even cheaper. I will be sure to check the start gear is installed the right way, because I don't want to be running into the same issue that 619 had, which seems to be a common issue as some one on the 3G side also had theirs installed the wrong way from the factory. So thanks to 619 & Heeltoe for this. I'll be slapping those two of the 4 heel toe stickers that I got with the rest of my sticker collection on the back passenger side windows.
Now, last night I was doing some research. First off, polyfilling the transmission mounts seems to be fine. I was looking to see if anyone made polyurethane mounts for other cars, and wanted to see what sort of effects they had. Seems people put them on subarus, and everyone complains about the vibrations, which i'm not worried about. So I will probably be going that route because I want these mounts to last. But I dug even further. If you go on RockAuto to the Manual transmission section for our cars, they have two mounts listed:
Now obviously these won't work on our cars. But then I remembered; that '04 accord with the 6 speed transmission that I pulled. It used these same mounts. There has to be a way to use these. If I remember correctly, the accord transmission didn't use a bracket, and these just bolted straight into the transmission, while the CL uses a bracket. But I might be remembering wrong. I wish I still had that transmission so I could figure something out, but the mounts are cheap enough that I mount just buy them with some other parts. The transmission in the accord is pretty much the same exact design as the CL 6 Speed transmission, just with a few differences like the flywheel sensor & shift lever arms. But the overall design is the same. Would it not be possible to simply make a bracket so that we can use these mounts? There has to be something.. i'm hyperfixated on figuring out this issue because if my mounts go out, then i'm screwed. And if some one is willing to "Give their left orchid" for those mounts, even if it is a niche product there only a few of use need, then I want to find a solution for us. I'm tempted to call P2R to see if they have any input or a solution for this.
Oh, and I think I found the funds for the headers.
They're J35Z6 intake manifolds. One has all the hardware on it, the other some one already did the work for me, but left it behind missing it's hardware. Already sold one in the past for $250. Just gotta get them cleaned up and listed on Ebay. I love my local junkyard. They're always getting good cars for me to pull from. If y'all need or want anything from the yard, let me know and i'll get it for you.
If the bolt boss' are present on the CL-6MT trans case, that correlates to the red arrow holes on the Accord 6MT front & rear trans mounts below, then it would be a matter only to see where the yellow arrow studs would fall on the CL-S6 front beam?
then it would be a matter only to see where the yellow arrow studs would fall on the CL-S6 front beam?
I meant to say Auto CL-S front beam, since you don't want to swap the CL-S6 one.
Accord 6MT front beam trans mount side: 50200-SDA-A00
Automatic CLS front beam trans mount side:50200-S0K-A01
CL-S6 front beam trans. mount side:50250-S3M-A50
I have been looking for a driver black seat bottom without any serious tears. Either intact with foam or pull the leather off the bottom. I have hog rings and can reinstall. Thanks for keeping an eye out. I have cl's come in my local junkyard. If you guys need something i can grab it for you.
I meant to say Auto CL-S front beam, since you don't want to swap the CL-S6 one.
Accord 6MT front beam trans mount side: 50200-SDA-A00
Automatic CLS front beam trans mount side:50200-S0K-A01
CL-S6 front beam trans. mount side:50250-S3M-A50
I'll order those mounts when I get the new rear main seal and some other things. I want to see how do able it would be. If P2R is willing to figure out a solution for us, I'll ship them my transmission mounts to figure something out.
Originally Posted by Proguy747
I have been looking for a driver black seat bottom without any serious tears. Either intact with foam or pull the leather off the bottom. I have hog rings and can reinstall. Thanks for keeping an eye out. I have cl's come in my local junkyard. If you guys need something i can grab it for you.
I've been waiting for the yard to bring another CL in. It's been a couple months without one, which is both good & bad. On one hand, I want to see these cars on the road, but on the other hand, I could use a spare hood for when I eventually cut a hole in one, and another set of J32A2 cams to sell and whatever else. A couple months ago, they brought in one 3G TLS. The brembos sold quick. Then the next month, they brought in two more 3G TLS. Brembos, again, sold quick. That's how I was able to buy this car, from eBay sales pretty much.
Oh, and I want to correct myself. I actually sold the J35Z6 IM for $150. I'm not a total scumbag ripping people off. But whatever I make from them will be going into my car, just like everything else I have sold.
I'll keep an eye out for a black interior CL. Usually the seats are torn, but if not, i'll let you know.
Enough sales talk from me. This is a 6 speed swap thread, but my dumb ADHD brain loves to get off topic.
I'm going to be taking a break from the swap, hence the chit chat and no actual progress lately. I want to focus on getting the funds for the headers before I start pulling apart my baby. No point in having her up on jack stands for weeks on end waiting to order the headers when I can still have some fun driving her around before she goes under for surgery.
All that's really left on the car to pull from is that passenger side wiring harness, which I'm not even sure I need, but I'm pulling it out just in case. I'll be pulling the car out of the garage after that so I can use the space in my garage to clean all of the parts, and give the transmission a paint job, while also cleaning & packaging these intake manifolds for ebay so I can actually buy the headers. Plus, it's been raining since yesterday, and will continue to do so until Monday, and TN is known for it's humidity. I don't work well in a humid environment. Then there's the holidays coming up, and yadda yadda yadda..
Expect the real swap to begin next year. For the time being, this is a parts cleaning thread.
My first clutch kit! Thanks to 619rcr for helping me out with this, because i've never had to shop for a clutch before, and I had no clue what to get. I went with the FX250 Clutch master kit with a single mass flywheel.
I remembered; that '04 accord with the 6 speed transmission that I pulled. It used these same mounts. There has to be a way to use these. If I remember correctly, the accord transmission didn't use a bracket, and these just bolted straight into the transmission, while the CL uses a bracket. But I might be remembering wrong. I wish I still had that transmission so I could figure something out, but the mounts are cheap enough that I mount just buy them with some other parts. The transmission in the accord is pretty much the same exact design as the CL 6 Speed transmission, just with a few differences like the flywheel sensor & shift lever arms. But the overall design is the same. Would it not be possible to simply make a bracket so that we can use these mounts?
NP and bonus points for getting a good deal. On a side note, my correctly flipped ring gear & ghetto fw shim solution seems to work...for now... knock on wood.
As for the AT lower mount conversion, I recall a particular forum member mentioning j series trans cases having the 4 lower side bosses drilled and tapped in the same spots. But, he never clarified if that was just manual transmissions or autos as well.
Perhaps you could do a beta test, by borrowing the pieces off your AT and test fit on GF's MT?
btw, did you get the matching imrc plugs for those J35 manifolds? Had to buy a pigtail off someone for my butterflies to be fully functional.
NP and bonus points for getting a good deal. On a side note, my correctly flipped ring gear & ghetto fw shim solution seems to work...for now... knock on wood.
As for the AT lower mount conversion, I recall a particular forum member mentioning j series trans cases having the 4 lower side bosses drilled and tapped in the same spots. But, he never clarified if that was just manual transmissions or autos as well.
Perhaps you could do a beta test, by borrowing the pieces off your AT and test fit on GF's MT?
btw, did you get the matching imrc plugs for those J35 manifolds? Had to buy a pigtail off someone for my butterflies to be fully functional.
Glad to hear things are working out for you. I sure hope I don't have to go through headache. Pulling and reinstalling 3 different J35's 4 times was enough for me.
One of the mounts for the automatics seem to be different, while one of them appears to be the same. I don't want to touch her car, else she starts driving the TL if I mess something up and I get too lazy to fix it, and uses up all my gas. I'll give things a test fit when I'm putting the transmission in my car.
I'm honestly just baffled that there isn't an aftermarket solution here. I refuse to believe that if the mounts go out, there's no alternative.
Actually, one them I didn't; no. The other one, some one had already cut the wires on the plug, but left it attached to the IMRC. I'll probably end up going back anyways to grab a spindle for the black CL, so I'll pick it up at the same time. I also realized after I got home that some one took out ALL the shiny screws one of them that go around the IM to hold the two pieces together. I have no clue why, but it sure is annoying. So I'll be going back to pull off some bolts from another IM to fill in those gaps.
Maybe that's why they did it? So they could have nice shiny screws because they lost theirs? I know I've pocketed extras because I've lost some lol.
I remembered I took pics of the Accord transmission for Ebay back when I had it listed. Thankfully, I've got 3 pics of the mounts attached to the transmission.
The rear mount from RockAuto looks like it'll work. But the front mount on this transmission has a long metal cylinder to fill in the gap. I don't remember if the one on RockAuto has that. But from the looks of things, they'll work, but the question is whether or not they'll line up with the holes in the subframe.
I remembered I took pics of the Accord transmission for Ebay back when I had it listed. Thankfully, I've got 3 pics of the mounts attached to the transmission.
The rear mount from RockAuto looks like it'll work. But the front mount on this transmission has a long metal cylinder to fill in the gap. I don't remember if the one on RockAuto has that. But from the looks of things, they'll work, but the question is whether or not they'll line up with the holes in the subframe.
The lower side appears to be angled the same as the subframe. Could order a generic mount off amazon and see if it fits. If not its an easy return.
So i'm in middle of cleaning up things to move the car out, and you know what I just realized? The windows are rolled down.
Anyone have a solution to roll them up?
Pull door panel off and find the 2 pin connector that goes to the motor. Unhook the connector and use test leads / jumper wires to apply power and ground. Flipping the orientation will reverse direction. Be careful not to touch the two leads together being that the pins are close together.
Pull door panel off and find the 2 pin connector that goes to the motor. Unhook the connector and use test leads / jumper wires to apply power and ground. Flipping the orientation will reverse direction. Be careful not to touch the two leads together being that the pins are close together.
You know, I was literally going to do that, but I resorted to just unbolting the windows from the track and taping them up. What a pain in the ass trying to get one of the bolts with a wrench.
Glad to know there is a work around for next time though.
Oh, and bad news. The stud on the ball joint for the control arm is screwed. I sat in the passenger seat after lowering the car, and the car just dropped a little bit. Took a look under the car, and found the castle nut on the floor.
Definitely gonna need that spindle. Think it'd be alright to roll the car out still? Or is moving the car going to cause further problems? Too muddy & raining to go to the junkyard, and I don't want to wait for a ball joint replacement, nor do I plan on renting the tool until it comes time to do on my car.
Last edited by Thefireball; 12-08-2022 at 03:55 PM.
Alright, did what you said. Hotwired the window motor, lined the bolt holes in place, bolted the window back down, and rolled it all the back up. Thankfully I only unbolted the one window. Now to figure out this spindle issue..
Edit:
I think the engine blew a head gasket.
Had to join in on the trend since everyone else has done it lol.
VROOM VROOM
Last edited by Thefireball; 12-08-2022 at 04:58 PM.
Oh, and bad news. The stud on the ball joint for the control arm is screwed. I sat in the passenger seat after lowering the car, and the car just dropped a little bit. Took a look under the car, and found the castle nut on the floor.
Definitely gonna need that spindle. Think it'd be alright to roll the car out still? Or is moving the car going to cause further problems?
if you're going to replace the ball joint or spindle, try holding the stud with a vise grip in place of the nut to roll car out. Then when ready lift the corner and support on a jack stand or block.
if you're going to replace the ball joint or spindle, try holding the stud with a vise grip in place of the nut to roll car out. Then when ready lift the corner and support on a jack stand or block.
I might just do that. The car is just going to be sitting for awhile, so I'm not too concerned about it. I've never messed with the suspension before, so removing a ball joint was new to me. Lesson learned: don't hammer out ball joints.
Depending on weather & what time I wake up tomorrow, I might go to the junkyard and grab another spindle, along with the IMRC plug and bolts.
Been busy with life lately. Got a new spindle off of a 2000 Accord yesterday. Part numbers came out the same. Just finished getting it on now. Who ever thought the screws to hold the rotors on was a good idea? Spent like 30 minutes drilling them out.
Dust shield is a little beat up from having to use a vice grip to clamp down on the rotor while I got the axle nut off. Almost didn't work, but putting a screwdriver through the slot in-between the rotor worked. Yes, the cotterpins are being left off for now.
Aftermath of the castle nut being ripped off. Gnarly.
Shook the car hard to make sure it was all good. She's solid, nothing's breaking off this time.
Last edited by Thefireball; 12-11-2022 at 12:53 AM.
Don't fuck around with that lower balljoint, it'll fuck a lot up if it pops out on a turn at speed.
Rotor screws, try taking a punch or something hard and give it a few backs on the screw head (without damaging the philips slot, obvi)...
then impact gun and it should come out.
Don't fuck around with that lower balljoint, it'll fuck a lot up if it pops out on a turn at speed.
Rotor screws, try taking a punch or something hard and give it a few backs on the screw head (without damaging the philips slot, obvi)...
then impact gun and it should come out.
Duly noted. I'll probably end up replacing the suspension on this before I give it to some one else. Last thing I want is someone getting into an accident because of my fuck up. Thankfully, ball joints are cheap.
When I was actually trying to remove the wheel, I noticed it was rubbing up against the fender in front of the door. I can only imagine the carnage that it could cause.
As for the screws, I tried that. They would strip, then I would get a fatter Phillips. Then I had to move to a flat head. They eventually came loose after drilling enough, and just screwed right out. On my girl's CL, I had to use a Dremel to cut them in half. Damaged the rotor, but we were replacing them anyways.
Not a fan of those screws, especially since the yard charged me for the rotor. Returning it is less than the gas it takes to get there and back.
Last edited by Thefireball; 12-11-2022 at 11:14 PM.
^
Not that you have to do this, though, IIRC'ly, back in the day tsb 06-015 (99-03 3.2 TL all & 01-03 3.2 CL all) stated that if an acura factory ball joint had a 'B' stamped on it, for some reason , they recommended entire knuckle replacement.
^
Not that you have to do this, though, IIRC'ly, back in the day tsb 06-015 (99-03 3.2 TL all & 01-03 3.2 CL all) stated that if an acura factory ball joint had a 'B' stamped on it, for some reason , they recommended entire knuckle replacement.
I read about that awhile back. I also just read your post in another thread today about it. I took wonder why they state to do that.
Originally Posted by 619rcr
Nobody has heard of an impact screwdriver? They work particularly well on rotor screws.
I just learned about one after watching a video of some one rebuilding an alternator. Adding it to the list of tools to get.
Originally Posted by Proguy747
I spray penetrating oil. 5 minutes later take a Phillips screwdriver hammer it. Shock the screw. Comes right out. Anti seize when installing.
Tried that, didn't work. Going to guess the heat from drilling is what freed them up. I don't put them back on. The lugnuts do the work.
I've been keeping myself busy in the garage lately. I'll be posting progress pics here soon. For now, enjoy this image of a squatted CL. I better be careful. WhistlinDiesel doesn't live too far from me. He might try to destroy it.
She's still not perfectly clean. Hard to get to some of the corners & crevices, but she's pretty much all good. Still have to do a little bit more with the wire brushes & wheels, and get her ready to be painted. I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to paint it. Probably put her up on my engine stands so I can spin her around and get every angle I can. Going to be much harder to paint than an engine block is.
What color scheme should I go with? My car is blue/black, and the engine is blue/silver. I'm thinking the entire case be silver, and the shift lever arms be a blue. But I could also go the opposite.
^
Nice work.
Something Interesting I noticed:
Thefireball CL-S6 trans has YZC5 with C5:
619rcr CL-S6 trans has YZC5 with C6:
My CL-S6 trans has YZC6 with C6. My top line MFD door jam date is 03/02, I wonder if that has something to do with it?
Thefireball, just for grins & giggles, what does the top line MFD door jam date reflect on your six speed?
I'll check back later and let you know. I'm curious to know if there's any differences between the two. Probably nothing significant.
Originally Posted by Proguy747
Been a little busy today myself.
Ooh wee, I wish I had the confidence & skills to paint an entire car. I imagine you'll be using professional tools and not rattle cans? Unless you're prepping it yourself and taking it to some one. What color are you going with?
I'll stick with vinyl wrap, and even I suck at that. My girl has the golden touch with vinyl.
12-04-2022, 02:51 AM
