Okay, so today I decided to install my Cusco parts and Progress RSB.

The Cusco Tower Strut and Type I bar were simple and direct installs that took me no more than 30 min.

Keeping in mind that my Hydraulic Jack didn't lift enough height for me to effective access the rear of my car I had to use the jack that came with the car to remove the passenger rear tire.



I ran into the problem right here. At first when using the 5mm HEX and the ratchet the bolt seemed to be very tight on there. I could barely move it with a lot of force. Slowly the nut start to come off, but after a certian point it got stuck. I attempted to try it on the driver side but with no avail the HEX slot actually started to wear down (maybe the key I used wasn't the Metric? Anyway I called it a night and put it back to stock (almost)

Three questions:

1. Is it okay to drive without the bolt tightened back on all the way? It seems to be locked in place and I'm afraid to wear out the groove anymore than it has.

2. Is there a solution to this I'm not seeing? Now that it's stuck I think I have to drive it to a shop to get the RSB installed

3. It seems like a quick install to me, but would a shop have the proper tools to complete this install (given the fact that I pretty much locked that bolt and nut into place)?


Also I was looking for Teflon tape, but all I found int he plumbing section was "white tape". Is this the same deal? I'm assuming it is, but it just does say teflon anywhere (though it does say "military spec")
Any help on this issue would be great. I'd hate to go to a shop to get this kind of work done, but I am sort of pissed at the fact that for the last hour I was trying to remove that bolt and nut.

 

better hope you didnt cross the threads

 

I stripped the thread when i went to install my sway bar - i think they may be overtightened from the factory. It was damn near impossible to get that bolt off.

If you've done the same you're looking at about AU$110 for a new link (what i paid )

 

I hope this isn't the case..

Again, does anyone know if I can drive with that link loose?

 

did you use anything to lubricate it? WD-40? I dont remember what size hex key off the top of my head, but it definitely should be metric.

make sure you are using the wrench to loosen the bolt and not using the hex key to do the work.

You should be ok to drive short distances with end link loose to go have someone look at it.

I am confused how teflon tape will help with this?

 

You can try removing the endlink mounting nut from the upper bracket. Then remove the the entire RSB assembly off the car. Once you have the bar off, use a nut splitter to crack the nut without destroying the thread on the endlink. Then all you have to do is to replace one nut.

 

Where could one find a "nut splitter"? Would this nut splitter also remove stripped nuts ot just stubborn nuts?

 

"Nut splitter" sounds like something either painful, or something you'd find at a sex shop, or both.

Good luck with the install though.. I'm installing my Comptech bar and poly bushings next week.

 

Well the teflon tape was supposed to help with the bushing and sqweeking.

But no, I did not add any other lubrication to help remove the bolt.

I saw what you are talking about and the thought crossed my mind. However upon trying to remove the upper bracket I don't know a way to do it without placing extreme torsional force. The car was shaking and I felt like it would fall off the stock car jacks (one on each side.. not safe, but my only option last night)

 

Just click on "nut splitter" from my post and it will show you what it looks like. I'm sure you can buy it from your local tool places or auto parts stores.

 

Thanks for your input guys, thanks JTso for that advice for the nut splitter and removing the entire link arm.

I went ahead and decided to call in a performance automotive shop and have them deal with this problem. I didn't quite feel safe working without the right equipment and didn't want to drive out to purchase it. Though I love working on my car I felt this was something I should have someone with the right experience and tools look at.

So. Total install time for RSB = 24 min

They only charge $64 an hour so I say 30 min to have my RSB installed wasn't a big deal.

Even the guy working on my car said those bolts are really stuck in there. He applied some compound for me so if I ever needed them out again it wouldn't be as big of a problem.

JTso, I remember you talking about the Torque specs for the Cusco Type I, can you PM them to me? He went ahead and torqued them to 100ft/lbs I don't know if that'll be too much for the bolt.

 

Did not know it was a link. Whould the nut splitter be better to remove a stripped nut or a specialty socket set designed to easily remove rounded, damaged or corroded nuts, bolts, etcc?

 

I believe the torque for the bolt is around 75 lbs. I know it's not 100 for sure.

 

It depends on the problem and how accessible it is to perform the repair. If part of the thread on the bolt is damaged, you don't want to use those sockets to force the nut off. It will just destroy the threads. In this case, the endlink. I would just crack the nut, use a die set to repair the thread. Then replace the nut.

 

Would there be any problems if it was torqued to 100 lbs?

 

I think it is 100, or 125, something rediculously high

 

I left my manual in the office, Ill look it up

 

According to the service manual, it's 76 ft lbs.

 

Again, would there be any issues I should be aware of due to putting it in at 100 ft/lbs?

 

Shouldn't be and I do believe it is 76 ft/lbs as well.

 

Oh boy! i just did the installation for the cusco bar yesterday! that bolt really was a pain in the ass to get off! im guessing its cuz of all the rust! well i couldnt find any lube at home so i up and decide to use salad oil! guess what?.. it worked. but used up so so so much energy! but it feels great tho! hahaha