Replace Brake Fluid w/ New Pads & Rotors?
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Replace Brake Fluid w/ New Pads & Rotors?
Hey guys... just a quickie... when I change out my pads and rotors, do I also need to flush the brake fluid and replace?
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Btw... while I'm on the topic of brakes, do SS lines have other benefits besides better pedal feel and increased corrosion resistance? I'm still on the fence on whether or not I should switch them out too...
#7
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Originally Posted by amadeus303
Btw... while I'm on the topic of brakes, do SS lines have other benefits besides better pedal feel and increased corrosion resistance? I'm still on the fence on whether or not I should switch them out too...
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Originally Posted by nbtx
Maybe better pedal feel, but I'm not so sure about the corrosion resistance. If you change them make sure you get DOT approved ones. From my experience on other vehicles I have not seen any advantage over stock hoses. Your results may vary ...
#9
Originally Posted by MMsTSX
same reason you should have SS lines on your washer and dishwasher at home.
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Originally Posted by CarbonGray Earl
I should have stainless steel lines on my wife?
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Originally Posted by moda_way
Been running my Goodridge SS brake lines for a few years now. For the most part, pedal feel is somewhat increase and they supposedly last longer than conventional ones, but don't expect to go from good stopping power to great. That occurs where the pad meets the rotor.
OK... last question while I have all the brake "enthusiasts" around (promise!)... torn between Hawk HPS and Ceramics... also considering Posi Quiets. I'm sure all 3 of them will be significant improvements over the OEMs, but noise and dust are concerns of mine. I've read a TON of reviews for the HPS on Tire Rack, and it seems that most people say the brake dust is no worse than stock pads, with a negligible increase in noise. However, on this board, many blokes said the Ceramics were a better match for the TSX. On other car forums, members swear by the Posi Quiets. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm hoping to order everything in the next day or so.
#12
Originally Posted by amadeus303
So it's something that's "nice to have" as opposed to "necessary" with regards to improving my braking system... I figured I'd change them out if I had a few bucks to burn unless there were some substantial gains to be made. Many thanks, buddy
OK... last question while I have all the brake "enthusiasts" around (promise!)... torn between Hawk HPS and Ceramics... also considering Posi Quiets. I'm sure all 3 of them will be significant improvements over the OEMs, but noise and dust are concerns of mine. I've read a TON of reviews for the HPS on Tire Rack, and it seems that most people say the brake dust is no worse than stock pads, with a negligible increase in noise. However, on this board, many blokes said the Ceramics were a better match for the TSX. On other car forums, members swear by the Posi Quiets. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm hoping to order everything in the next day or so.
OK... last question while I have all the brake "enthusiasts" around (promise!)... torn between Hawk HPS and Ceramics... also considering Posi Quiets. I'm sure all 3 of them will be significant improvements over the OEMs, but noise and dust are concerns of mine. I've read a TON of reviews for the HPS on Tire Rack, and it seems that most people say the brake dust is no worse than stock pads, with a negligible increase in noise. However, on this board, many blokes said the Ceramics were a better match for the TSX. On other car forums, members swear by the Posi Quiets. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm hoping to order everything in the next day or so.
#13
I would also change the fluid. Take a turkey baster and drain as much as possible from the master cyclinder. Refill with synthic brake fluid and bleed all four brakes. Make sure to check the fluid level and refill if it if gets to low while bleeding the brakes.
#14
mmmmmm....
Are you doin this by yourself or a shop doing it for you? If you are taking it to a shop then they should do it for free.
I replaced my rotors/pads on monday and they did it for free. I also flushed/replaced power steering wheel fluid and TM fluid for extra $50.
I replaced my rotors/pads on monday and they did it for free. I also flushed/replaced power steering wheel fluid and TM fluid for extra $50.
#15
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Originally Posted by chhimp
I would also change the fluid. Take a turkey baster and drain as much as possible from the master cyclinder. Refill with synthic brake fluid and bleed all four brakes. Make sure to check the fluid level and refill if it if gets to low while bleeding the brakes.
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Originally Posted by nbtx
Caution: do not use synthic (sic) - that should be synthetic - brake fluid; use plain old DOT 3 from Honda.
My appt. at the shop will probably be sometime next week, so before I go out and grab some fluid...
Btw, any ideas how much fluid I'll need to buy?
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On a side note... R1 rotors and Hawk HPS on the way... now I just need to figure out what kind and how much fluid I should pick up...
Passing on the lines for now...
Passing on the lines for now...
#22
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Originally Posted by amadeus303
Interesting... why do you say to use the Honda stuff instead of synthetic? It seems like mostly everyone is recommending synth... I don't have much experience w/ getting brake work done, so I'm curious...
is labeled Fred's brake fluid - just kidding ...
#25
Hi All,
First of do i need to put all the four wheels on stands for bleeding the the brakes ?? When i put the front ones i brake pedal felt so tight . Is this normal ??
Also do i need to take the cap off (before bleeding starting the bleeding process ?? I guess as long as i don't get the air to get in thru the reservoir it should be fine..pls confirm)
What brake bleeder kit do you guys suggest..
Has any one used the below ( available at harbor freight )..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924
or am i better off getting a mityvac
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947058000P
pls suggest
Mars
First of do i need to put all the four wheels on stands for bleeding the the brakes ?? When i put the front ones i brake pedal felt so tight . Is this normal ??
Also do i need to take the cap off (before bleeding starting the bleeding process ?? I guess as long as i don't get the air to get in thru the reservoir it should be fine..pls confirm)
What brake bleeder kit do you guys suggest..
Has any one used the below ( available at harbor freight )..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924
or am i better off getting a mityvac
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947058000P
pls suggest
Mars
#27
Originally Posted by mars
Hi All,
First of do i need to put all the four wheels on stands for bleeding the the brakes ?? When i put the front ones i brake pedal felt so tight . Is this normal ??
Also do i need to take the cap off (before bleeding starting the bleeding process ?? I guess as long as i don't get the air to get in thru the reservoir it should be fine..pls confirm)
What brake bleeder kit do you guys suggest..
Has any one used the below ( available at harbor freight )..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924
or am i better off getting a mityvac
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947058000P
pls suggest
Mars
First of do i need to put all the four wheels on stands for bleeding the the brakes ?? When i put the front ones i brake pedal felt so tight . Is this normal ??
Also do i need to take the cap off (before bleeding starting the bleeding process ?? I guess as long as i don't get the air to get in thru the reservoir it should be fine..pls confirm)
What brake bleeder kit do you guys suggest..
Has any one used the below ( available at harbor freight )..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924
or am i better off getting a mityvac
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947058000P
pls suggest
Mars
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If u r lookin 2 do it cheap just suck out the old fluid out of the master, clean the master out if there is black residue. U can just crack open all 4 bleeders and just gravity bleed the system with the brake cap off. Keep an eye on the fluid and keep topping it off until u c new fluid commin out of all 4 wheels. If u do have some extra $$$ 2 spend then go with one of the pressure bleeders, they do work the best.
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